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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2006, 08:33 AM
MARK TINNELLY's Avatar
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are you NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am an engineer working in New York City, i build skyscrapers for a living, with that being said, there are too many variables in this equatation.
1. the soil. (what type is it and where is the bedrock?)
2. the run off of the rain water, where does it normally go, you will have to build drains to deflect the run off away from the shed so as not to undermine any foundation.
3. you must transfer the load out into the slope more, by adding supports to the lower side of the shed, by lower i mean the side further down the slope to transfer the load out more over an area that has no vertical weight and make it share the vertical weight on a horizontal plane.
my opinion is to dig four holes around 12" back from the base of the shed around 36" deep and 8x8 wide and place one piece of 6x6 "H" iron with a flat 1/4" piece on to top to with in four inches of the bottom of the sheds floor base and fill each hole with concrete.
go to the front of the shed and dig four 8x8 trenches out from the front of the shed into the flat area where ther car is pictured around 8 feet that line up with the holes at the back.
put a layer or rough stone about 1" deep and then 2" of concrete with reinfrocing rod horizontally through it.
then get four pieces of 4x4 "H" iron and run them from the supports at the back all the way through to the trenches at the front.
your shed is then indepentley supported by the eground with two good bases sharing the load over a much wider area with the weight being transfered horizontally front to back and THEN vertically down through six supports.
If yoiu waant then you can take out the wood supports and lower the shed down onto the steel, no welding, even an amature could do this for $500 and a few weekends with a friend to help.
just dig a few rough drains along the front going down the sides of th eshed about 36" to each side, place heacy duty polythene in them with stones on top and they will take all rain water away to stop erosion.

any questions email me back

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2006, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimmo
Thanks for the advice guys
I'm just going to put together a quick 2 x 4 frame arount the car where it sits now & throw a tarp over it - instead of reinforcing the shed idea. I don't want to get to crazy on redoing the shed structure...I'll put down a couple sheets of plywood & get a torpedo heater...

Regarding the heater, should I get L.P. or kerosene fuel?

Thanks again
Zimmo
Glad to see your decision is not to try and put the car and you in that shed ,
that project could of gone down hill.
Once you get the motor out you should be able to get in there to work on,
it looks to be a small 4cylinder type car .
Choice for a heater is open when your outside, inside could be a different
situation , whatever route you take THINK SAFETY.

Good Luck and keep us posted o your progress...

BTW... poring a slab and moving the shed for furture use would be your best bet dollar for dollar if you really want to go use it .

1939P7
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Old 01-28-2006, 03:49 PM
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Army Surplus

We did this years ago to change a stick tranny in an old '49 Buick, and then actually used it as a garage for quite awhile... we bought an Army surplus 10 or 12 man tent (it was huge, held two cars plus)... it came with all of the supports etc, was cheap, and we heated it with a wood burning stove, but a bullet heater would make more sense today.... a lot of the things that have been suggested so far are pretty expense.... wood is higher than aluminum in some capacities.
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Old 01-28-2006, 03:54 PM
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Heaters

oh man... use LP ... you (and the interior of your car) will smell like kerosene from here 'til eternity... and your better half won't let you or your clothes back in the house..........
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2006, 08:29 PM
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type of heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyCraig
oh man... use LP ... you (and the interior of your car) will smell like kerosene from here 'til eternity... and your better half won't let you or your clothes back in the house..........
yes lp burns cleaner but i worked in a garage that was 80 x80 and we had two lp heaters and it barly kep the chill off but one 155,000 btu rocket heater kept it nice and warm and was cheaper on the pocket.. and as far as the smell.the oil and gas fumes will stink up a car and your clothes just as bad as the kerosene will .. if this is a concern it would come down to how cold it is and how much you want to spend on fuel cost to warm your temp garage... i was talking about a forced air kerosene heater not a wick type that work much like a kerosene lamp.. the forced air heater burns hotter and cleaner than a wick type heater just my opinion
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Old 01-29-2006, 01:38 PM
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i whole heartedly agree with 1939P7 's btw....if a shop is in next years budget, i would reallocate funds this year and just get the floor and stem walls (if planned for) poured, then you can do whatevers cheapest and/or ez'st for enclosure and comfort and feel competely safe, personally, i would do the concrete and then use what you'll need for the finished shop (treated sole plates and top plates and corners) and frame like every 3rd or 4th stud or whatever you can afford or poles if you want a pole barn type building and just use heavy plastic for now and build in (windows, doors.. minor things like roof and the rest of the walls) as budget permits
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 11:07 AM
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Portable Garages - Poor choice!

I wouldn't give the portable or canvas garage a second look. They WILL NOT stand up to any wind. Even the lightest thunderstorm will usually take them out even if you tie them down securly. And if your project is in the structure at the time...it will be damaged. I'm speaking from experience of my own and a buddy of mine who lost his "garage" and lost a really good novice paint job when the thing crashed, AND IT WILL!

Now if you just use it on nice days....well maybe it will be OK..but usually that's not the case. I built a structure out of PVC and corrugated fiberglass that I'm still using (as a greenhouse now) to this day. It has survived for about 15 years. And it was easy to build. Build it like a Quonset hut, the small diameter PVC (I used 3/4") will bend easily and the corrugated fiberglass attaches with self taping screws quite easily. The whole sturcture cost me less than $200 and took less than a weekend to construct.

If you need more info...let me know!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2006, 10:14 PM
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I was told a few days ago that Pep boys had a 10'x20' tent/carport, with end flaps, for around $200. I gotta get over there to see if it's fer real.

If you go with the canvas tent, you could always 'floor' it with trenchplate. A solid, smooth surface with a certain 'stick-to-it-tiveness' at ground level ('cause it's real heavy), and tough enough to withstand an engine on a hoist.

They come up to 12'x20', you'll only need to put the plate where you'll need to do work on it, and it'd be nice and cool for workin' under the car in the summertime's heat.

I guess you could make a partial (or full depending on your budget) wood floor using 1 1/8" flooring and standard framing, with a hard overlay ('cause the wood would disintegrate after rolling a hoist around on it a few times).

Or you could pour cement 'blocks' that can be moved with a hand dolly but can be laid down for your floor....lotsa cracks though...

The garage would be non-permanant and therefore less subject to whatever local codes/builder's permits (fees) etc. Foundations mean permanance, but a trenchplate can be moved within minutes...and the tent can be dropped within a weekend.

You'll just need the help of a few friends. People do weird things for the promise of beer, flame charred meat, and a bizarre task.

Please be careful though! Save the beer for after the heavy stuff is done!

A rental backhoe or skip loader will move the trenchplate, prep it's new location, and carry the tent around, and will make light of the grunt work. Then let the party start...



But wait, there's more...





Along with all that...





You won't be lookin' at what's left of yer shed...

and car...

and prolly quite a few cans of paint and other assorted, multi-colored, toxic liquids, mixed with...

all yer tools and compressor...

all down yonder at the bottom of the hill...

leakin' toward the stream...







If you do try it, make sure you video every second!!








You'll need the tape to try to win that first prize on World's Funniest Videos to replace whatever you couldn't drag back up the hill and scrape paint and other assorted, multi-colored, toxic liquids offa...




and the fines...



and the lawyer's fees...








Watch out for the competition though!! That cute, baby weirdness video will win every time!!





P.s. And please send me a copy too. Please also include the footage of the cans of paint and other multi-colored, toxic liquids, oozing over the bent and broken pieces of shed and car (close-ups would be extra nice).

Thanks!!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2006, 11:09 AM
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The tent route is the way to go....
Dollar wise, building code wise, and cost wise.
The tent bellow I had made up from to party type tents that
cost me 99.00 bux's each, the tent has been where its at for
4 years, "wind, rain. thunder storms, snow, etc"
I stated before the only problem I ever have had was "mosquitos".
The peak is 10'+ and has plenty of room .
Some of the tent's sold "well just about all of them" are of a
thin wall tubing, what I did was modify the heck out of it .
There is only one anchor point in each corner, and the roof is
beefed up with galvanized pipe like used for fence, along with
some 1" electrical conduit on 24" centers .
"They work as good as you make em"




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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2006, 05:46 AM
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Just saw this thread. Where are you now with it? Hopefully finished. If not and your still worried about moving the cherry picker in the snow just move the car instead. Can be pushed by one if your strong enough or two or more (better). Immobilize the hoist on 3/4 plywood,( nail stops in front and back of the wheels or cut out holes just enough to catch them if its not level enough) Then cover the front of the car with visqueen (plastic sheeting) or something like, or put the hood back on, And either take the engine into the building or build a temporary shelter around it. Doesn't have to be too complicated or large (its disposable) Could tack plastic to the front of the building. If you use the clear plastic you might be surprised how warm it will get in the daytime, don't seal it up tight, leave a few cracks for ventilation. Run a drop cord for power. When you stop the wind its much warmer. But the propane sounds good as you will want to warm up the metal a bit before torquing any bolts on the motor. Long before you could get or borrow things like cherry pickers easily we used a tripod (sometimes made from a swing set) and a chainfall and pushed the car back and forth. Thats why it took at least two. Needed someone to watch when you pushed the car back under the motor to keep it lined up and from hitting the windshield. (or to take you to the ER if you forgot to make sure that the setup was solid and dropped the motor on your foot or something else necessary) Save the beer till the job is finished! That way the help wont be crashing out beside the job and you wont have to drag em inside to keep them from freezing to death!

BTW that dropoff looks like a good place to build a oil change/lube rack. Just build it to bridge standards. (and put good stops on it)


Allen
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2006, 09:25 AM
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This is way after the fact but a couple of 500 watt Halogen work lights usually will warm up a small work area enough to make it comfortable to work on a rig. They throw out a lot of heat.
I hang one up over the work bench in my shed/workshop and It keeps the hands warm when working on bench projects.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2006, 10:23 AM
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here is what i did ,under 300 clams, BUT check your local ordinances FIRST , what they do not tell you is MOST municipality's (in town ,rural is ok) do NOT allow these , as tempoarary shelter's they don't like them because there is NO TAX revenue, I get away with it as I only use it in the cold month's up to 3.5 month's and no more, MUCH more room than my clap board Model A sized garage
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2006, 03:24 PM
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That pretty well looks more comfortable than the 70 year old one car garage that I am working in. It has a lot of cracks for drafty winds to come in.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2006, 03:40 PM
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my setup is that tent attached to my Model A garage 15' wide and 25 " long (same day light through the walls deal) + the 16'x20' of the tent makes it VERY roomy and the gray color makes it about 10 deg warmer even on -0 days
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2006, 02:37 AM
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im not sure if anyones still wathing this thread but it occured to me the cheapest and ez'st and safest way to use the actual shed is to find and or make a 15 x 15 flat area and move the shed to that area ...lol, the more i look at that structure the more i fear for you, at least maybe keep a camera rolling so you can take a crack at the 10 grand from bob saget, also i just noticed you posted its on a 2x4 floor?...did i read that right? ..please, set it on the ground
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