[panhead george]

I am new to bodywork (welding repair panels).

I have a 1974 jeep cj6. It is definitely not a hot rod. The body and floor panels are rusted through.

I want to weld repair panels. I do not want to use bondo and a color finish paint. I was thinking of sanding the finished metal and finishing with a clear flat paint.

My question: Is there a way to make an offset or lip in the panels so when I make a lap weld, the panels are flush with each other? This way I won't have a raised surface.

I do have access to a miller xmt 304 welder.

Any ideas will be appreciated!

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by panhead george

I am new to bodywork (welding repair panels).

I have a 1974 jeep cj6. It is definitely not a hot rod. The body and floor panels are rusted through.

I want to weld repair panels. I do not want to use bondo and a color finish paint. I was thinking of sanding the finished metal and finishing with a clear flat paint.

My question: Is there a way to make an offset or lip in the panels so when I make a lap weld, the panels are flush with each other? This way I won't have a raised surface.

I do have access to a miller xmt 304 welder.

Any ideas will be appreciated!

Very easy to do with a bead roller. Can also be accomplished with a box and pan break, or a pair of offset pliers or an air powered flanger. I prefer the bead roller as it is fast and you can control the depth and go around curves with it. Second I choose the offset pliers. Again I can control the amount of offset and go around curves.

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...kit-34104.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-pun...tool-1110.html

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...Flange-Pliers/

http://www.classicindustries.com/nova/parts/x9853.html

http://compare.ebay.com/like/3306682...Types&var=sbar

As you can see, the vice grip flange pliers are very easy to make, just weld to pads on that have the amount of offset you desire and presto, instant lower arm exerciser

I assume you are going to either mig/gas shield, or tig weld it.

Hope I didnt offend anyone by taking the time to include the links.

[Supercharged03]

I would not create a lip and overlap the pieces. instead, cut the pieces to the same size and butt weld them, a spot at a time.

Cut out the bad metal in a square or rectangular pattern. Cut the patch to fit, leaving no more than 1/16th inch gap. Tack the patch in place. Add more tacks 1 to 2 inches apart around the circumference of the patch. Add tacks next to the original pattern, going around the circumference and allowing each tack to cool before adding the adjacent tack. Following the tacks around, in sequence, you'll eventually fill in the entire piece with minimal warping of the original piece or the patch. If you burn a hole in the metal, place a piece of copper behind the hole and add a tack. The copper will hold the tack in place without sticking to the steel. I use a split piece of copper tubing for this purpose.

Overlapping the steel will inevitably lead to moisture retention and rust.

[hp246]

Supercharged03 is right. You are better to buttweld them together than lap weld. A lap weld is going to hold water if not sealed properly and you'll be back to the same situation. There happens to be a good article about putting in floor pans in the new Hemmings Muscle Car magazine.

[nine4gmc]

definitely butt weld, but if you just gotta lap weld it, there is an air tool at harbor freight that crimps a lap weld flange on sheet metal, and the other side of the tool punches 3/16" holes for welding or fasteners.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-pun...tool-1110.html

and if you decide to butt weld it for better results, try these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece...mps-44751.html