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Old 03-19-2006, 12:05 PM
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Need To Buy A New Alternator

I just bought some March alternator brackets for my 350 Chevy and the brackets are for the passenger side of the engine. My alternator used to be on the driver's sise and once I put the alternator on the new brackets I noticed that the bottom of the alternator fitted fine but the top is not going to lie up. Seems the mounting hole is now on the other side.

What kind of alternator do I need to buy? Is there a special word I should be looking for? My truck is a 1989 Chevy Silverado and I'm looking for 100-140 amps

Need it to be chrome

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Old 03-19-2006, 12:10 PM
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You need to realign the alternator housing so that the adjustment tab on the alternator is in the right position. You undo the 4 screws holding it together, pry it apart just a little and rotale the 2 halfs until it is correct. If you take it too far apart, the brushes will come off the stator. You then have to put a pin in the back so that you can reassemble it, then remove the pin once it is together.
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Old 03-19-2006, 12:17 PM
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Thanks Poncho62, never thought of that.

Good to know that there is a great Canadian helping a dumb Canadian out


Thank you
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Old 03-19-2006, 12:20 PM
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Great??????? I dont know about that.........Old maybe?
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Old 03-19-2006, 12:42 PM
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It was almost a good exuse to add more chrome to the engine. But I'll be switching maybe by next winter to chrome
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:13 PM
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Poncho62

I just went into the garage and had a look at my alternator. Both the top and bottom mounting holes are on the front of the alternator. So if I was to adjust it so that the top mountings fit the bottom won't


Anyone else?
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:22 PM
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Hmmmmmmmmm........that's true.........That's the way they all are..........the reason that you rotate the housing is so that the connections on the back are in the right spot. A picture of your setup would help. Why was it on the drivers side to start with?..........they are all on the pasenger side since 69.....Is the bottom bolted to the front of the head?

Added a couple of pics of mine.
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Last edited by poncho62; 03-19-2006 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:39 PM
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Here are some pics on my set up

http://www.photodump.com/direct/Cana.../Bills2794.jpg
http://www.photodump.com/direct/Cana.../Bills2796.jpg
http://www.photodump.com/direct/Cana.../Bills2797.jpg
http://www.photodump.com/direct/Cana.../Bills2803.jpg



Just remember I'm trying to use a driver's side alternator on the passenger side
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:55 PM
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Have you tried rotating the alternator so the top fixing is at the bottom,
looking at this pic you posted it may work. Then "clock" the alternator rear housing as Poncho suggested.
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Old 03-19-2006, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian Charlie

Just remember I'm trying to use a driver's side alternator on the passenger side
I think that is your problem....The bolting locations are not directly accross from each other....mine are. Mine is a 70s to mid 80s setup.

On my 62, the alternator is on the drivers side, the top adjusting bracket is bent so that it goes up and around the top of the alternator. Sorry, cant take a pic, its stored at my daughters. On it, the mounting holes are directly accross from each other.........

What Malc says may work, but may not look right.............and with all the aluminum pieces, you want it to look right.
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Old 03-19-2006, 03:18 PM
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I'm not sure if this is pertinent or not, seeing as you are using aftermarket bracketry ... but I seem to recall that there are "long water pump / short water pump" issues with swapping alternators from one side to the other.

Have you stuck all of the pulleys on and checked the belt groove alignment?
You may need to use a different w/pump.
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Old 03-19-2006, 03:38 PM
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IMO you DO need a different alternator.

There is no way to "Clock" the front housing ... the "ear" is just plain on the wrong side. You'd have to turn it inside-out to mount it.

That alternator looks like a CS130 style, and I have been told that there are limits to clocking the back half due to internal leads, if I understood correctly.

I'd suggest taking it to a shop that specializes in electrical rebuilding. There are companies that sell different drive-end housings (ACE reman is one of them). There are rear (commutator) housing upgrades available as well that allow for a wider rear bearing. That was a real weak spot on early CS series alternators.

Maybe Doc Vette will pick up on this thread. If he does I'm sure he'll have some "pearls of wisdom" and benefits of experience to offer you as well.
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:03 PM
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Doc here,

The problem, The way I see it, Is: No matter How you position the Alternator, The straight Drag link is not going to work..

You need a top adjustable mount formed similar to the bottom curved piece, The drag link would only work if the anchored leg were EXACTLY straight across from the alternator adjuster mounting holes (Taller Water Pump mount hole) ..EVEN if the alternator holes were exactly 6 and 12 O'Clock on the unit..(The Drag link body would still hit the Top of the Alternator Body.)

Do they list a Curved Top mounting plate from March?

If not you COULD try one of those Curved Chrome Aftermarket Brackets From like auto zombie ... (Although, they are kinda Weenie on an high output engine..)



Other than that to use the drag link, I see no other way to mount it except straight across at 90 degree angles to the pump and alternator..(then it would be real close...)

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Old 03-19-2006, 06:17 PM
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OK ... How about an alternator with a more conventional 6:00 / 12:00 mounting?

This (NAPA # 13-4521HO -- 140 Amp) one fits an 89 Chevrolet R2500 with a 454.


They also say that you'll need this (13-41K) wiring upgrade kit


More info at NapaOnline
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Old 03-19-2006, 06:42 PM
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Doc here,

The problem I have always run into, When you have a non Curved bracket, coming off a 90 degree mount to a Circular attach point, It will never meet..(unless it is at the exact height, and exactly straight across..)

If you run a Square From the bottom mount bolt and extend that line above the top of the alternator , then run a square from the water pump mount straight across to the alternator mount point, you'll find the two points intersect at about 6 inches above the alternator..

Also, Even if you are able to get a bolt pattern close, to get it to mate would (usually ) require more space than is available before the alternator body hits the block or water pump..

In order to use a straight drag link, you would need a bolt pattern on the Alternator of about 6 O'clock,(Bottom) and 3 0"Clock (Top)..(Drag link is now straight across) or else some part of the system will hit before the bolts mate up. Either the drag link will hit the top of the alternator before it ever comes close to the bolt hole, OR the Alternator body will hit the block or Water pump before it is at the 3 O'clock position.

I've moved a few on non Air conditioned Vettes (where left space is at a premium) and the top bracket is ALWAYS a nightmare..

Doc
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