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Old 12-22-2004, 11:35 AM
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need cam suggestions for my 383 build

The car is a weekend cruiser. Do not drag race but I do drive the car hard occasionally. The car is show quality. I want enough vaccum to run all accesories.

I plan to go with a solid flat tappet.

With that being said - the basics of my build are as follows:
383 stroker
10.0:1 compression
AFR 195 cc heads
RPM Air Gap intake
Hooker super comp headers 1 3/4"
Dr gas X pipe 3" into X 2.5 out
Muncie M20 4spd
4:10 rear
26" tall tire

The cam in my current 355 is a hydrolic 230/236 @ 50 , 487/490 lift all on a 110. I have 1.6 rockers on the intake.
I like the this cam for my 355 so I would like something similar. This cam comes in aroun 2,200 and pulls to 6k.

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Old 12-22-2004, 11:46 AM
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Since it isn't a performance application, a) why go with the 1.6 rockers which put greater stress on the system, and b) why go to mechanical lifters which just add hassle and no benefit for a cruiser? With 10:1 compression you may want to reconsider going any smaller on the cam - may run into detonation problems.
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:49 AM
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If it's an older Camaro it would be cool to run one of the newer "tight lash Duntov 30-30s". very wide power band and a great idle that isn't too rough to overpower vacuum brakes.
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Old 12-22-2004, 04:52 PM
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The AFR heads have great flow rates. Particularly on the exhaust side. The poor performance of factory chevy heads is one reason that dual pattern cams have been so popular with chevy lovers. But with the AFR heads, you don't need to worry about a dual pattern cam because the exhaust flows so very, very well. I have two suggestions. . . . both are Comp Hydraulic Rollers (I know, that breaks the baseline rule, but I think you'd like the results). Have Comp grind a custom with the Extreme Energy 230 degree lobe (or the Extreme Energy 224 degree lobe) on both the intake and the exhaust. It seems strange that a single pattern cam would seem out-of-the-ordinary, but for a chevy these days, it is. This kind of a grind allows a little more than you would otherwise take on the intake side, without over-doing the overlap and creating a loss of vaccum. At least, give a single pattern some consideration. And with a roller, you have less worries about failing the break-in cycle and flattening a lobe early the life of the engine.

Whatever you do -- Good luck!!
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Old 12-22-2004, 06:19 PM
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Go with a cam that has 220o-225o @.050" duration.

110o to 112o lobe sep.

As much lift as you can get with the above specs.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:17 PM
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I think a cam with duration in the 230* range at .050 on a 110 LSA would work nice with the rest of your combo (including rear gears and manual tranny). If you go too much shorter on the duration I don't think it will make power where you will need/want it. You don't need a bunch of low end with the gears you have and a stick. Go with a nice solid flat tappet with the above specs and you will have a blast. Keep the lift right around .500 - .525.

Royce
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Old 12-23-2004, 02:19 PM
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what cam?

An easy way to go is to just take the cam out of your 355 and stick it in your 383. Seems to me it has about the right duration etc for your engine/ drivetrain setup.
Especially if you like the cam.
Note that due to the 30 cubes larger displacement, that cam will come in at about 200-300 rpm lower than it does in the 355.

Rule of thumb.

Displacement change of 50 cubes + or - will change the operating range of the cam by 400-500 RPM.

A change of 10 degrees duration = or - will change the operating range of the engine by 400-500 RPM. These arent exactly hard fast rules, as there are so many variations in cam grinds, but it is a good basic guideline to work with.

If you like the way that cam works in your 355, I dont see any reason not to drop it in your 383.

Get you an 18 count egg carton, and number the pockets 1-16.
Take out the lifters in order and remember which number goes to what lifter guide.
I always go down one side first starting with the first cylinder, as #1 and so on with 9-16 being the other bank. Keeps confusion down to a minimum.
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Old 12-23-2004, 03:20 PM
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I agree with you kieth but I think I am going to go solid.
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Old 12-23-2004, 03:32 PM
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Here are the specs on the modern GM 30-30

Solid, outstanding power & modern tight lash with the exhaust of the GM 30-30 cam

lash> in/.012" ex/.012"

rpm>2300 to 6900

p#> 12-673-4

g#> N+30-30S

ad dur> 284/291

@ .050"> 247/254

lift> in/.504" ex/.498

lobe sep> 112

Like Max said, a cam will "come in" sooner with more cubes. This cam should run 2-2100 thru 66-6700. I once had a cam similar to this in a GN. I loved the sound and feel of that cam. it would pull strong to over 140mph.
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Old 12-23-2004, 03:58 PM
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I assume that you are not going roller because of the price, that is ok, it is something you can upgrade in the future if you want. I agree with the use of a single pattern cam with the AFR heads. If you are set on a solid cam, I would use the 282S (236 236 @.050, .495 .495 lift 2000-6000 RPM). If you use a hyd cam, I would go with the 280H( 230 230 @.050, .480 .480 lift 2000-6000 RPM). Both of these cams would work really well, and even better with a set of 1.6 rockers, which I would suggest.


Good luck
Adam
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Old 12-23-2004, 04:51 PM
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I like the 280 Comps. Great cams!Comp280 sound

Here is an Extreme Marine also:

XM278 sound

Both sound like they have gear drives
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