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I don't know much about curves, but I set my timing to 36 Deg. Total. This is how I do it. I disconnect the vaccuum advance and plug the line with a bolt or visegrips or something. Then I have my pops run it at about 4500 rpm (so that the centrifigul, or mechanical, advance is thru doing what it dose) then you set the timing to the specified mark. Hope that helps.
[ September 30, 2002: Message edited by: drgnwgn289 ] [ September 30, 2002: Message edited by: drgnwgn289 ]</p> |
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I may be wrong, but...I'm going to disagree 289. First you set initial timing by turning dist. body. This allows best starting of engine. Then you disconnect vacume advance. Run the motor above 3000 rpm and SEE what the timing reads. If not around 36 degrees, you buy a kit to change the centrifical plates advance. you get new plates and various springs.
I find good info when I really poke thru the websites of the various manufacturers. Isky has info, as do most others. |
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<a href="http://www.badasscars.com" target="_blank">www.badasscars.com</a> This will take you to bad *** engines, I havent read the tech forum but, my friends tell me it's pretty good. An advance timing light is what is best for setting/checking total advance, you just set the dial to 36 or whatever degrees you want total. Then with everything hooked up vacuum advance too, you have to figure it in too. Revv it up (you don't have to hold it) just revv it good until the "zero" mark lines up with the pointer.
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Hey KULTULZ: Check out this guys site www.badasscars.com go to "tech tips" and then to "where do i set my timing?" or something like that. I have heard that this is the way from more than one source, several actually. (leaving vacuum advance hooked up). But I think will try it both and ways see for myself.
I have always done it by "feel".
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Those are some good leads, fellas. I particularly liked the web sites.One problem, though.I'm getting contradictory info regarding total timing.One says it is initial plus mechanical, the other says its initial, mechanical, and vaccuum advance combined. Can't be both,that defies logic.
Ford sites are great, as are their products.(Especially Mark Martin's #6 NASCAR, go Mark!)Most all makes work on the same basic principles.I'm currently into Chevy, but I have a nice 383 Mopar ready to run once I find the right body.I used to run a 289 Ford in my 46 Willys Jeep.It's all good! Anyhow, any more sites would be greatly appreciated, as are your thoughtful replies and input. Total timing- initial plus centrifugal, or plus vaccum advance? What say you, Oh gods of horsepower?
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Total timing is mechanical advance plus initial. Remember if you are using a distributor machine timing in the distributor is double at the crankshaft balancer, this is due to the distributor turning 1/2 crank speed.
Vacuum advance is separate because it is not fixed to rpm and is load dependant. <a href="http://www.randomunity.com/superrod/tech_tips/distribtr_curves/distribut.html" target="_blank">Here's a webpage that goes further in depth.</a>
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Outlawed tunes from outlawed pipes |
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We have an old SUN distributor machine at school, I will look at manual for proper procedure tomorrow. But the vacuum advance is hooked up to PORT vacuum and port vacuum increases with engine speed, or so I thought. I will do a test on that as well. Got my curiosity going now!
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most chevy engines like the total timing in at about 2800 to 3200rpm depending on CR and octane gas you run. 4000 is kind of late. And i alway thought that you need manifold vac for the dis. so your dis know when is is inder a load along with your power valve in a holley. but i could be wrong
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that bad ***** web site has some nice blower motors I found a web that will sell a full blown less carbs and dis for dirt cheep WWW.bigalstoybox.com unreal prices
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