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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2011, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyrestore
the truck will not be doing any towing. It is mainly a daily driver with the occasional lead foot put to it for 5 or 10 seconds just a few times a year. That being said should I really go 2500-3000? I did find a 2500 stall on craigslist new/rebuilt that I can pick up but we dont know if its HD or not
If your not going to tow then forget the HD look at a 2000-2500 if your only streating it. Also find out what the flash of the converter is, this is important bc when you are sitting at a dead stop foot off the gas and you just mash it the rpms are gonna shoot to where ever the flash is set before the vehicle moves, hope that makes sense

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2011, 10:36 PM
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ok so then what would be optimal flash rpm? I did find a few 2000-2500 rpm converters that I can afford with warranty brand new so thats a plus.

Also just a side note www.supershopsracing.com is selling 700r4 transmissions with shift kits for $500...how is this possible? I figured if it was at all legitimate I should get 1 or 2 for a backup haha
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:40 PM
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You also need to know if your 700R4 has 27 or 30-spline Input Shaft.

Look thru these 30-spline units:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-22-25LHD/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-22-20LHD/

http://www.roadrunnerconverters.com/street.htm
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:05 AM
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What you want is just enough stall that the engine doesn't 'pull' against the converter/brakes like at a stop light, for instance. If the cam is mild and you have real good vacuum, you don't need a higher stall TC unless you just want it there for the 0.05% of the time that you run it hard. Otherwise, get a good 1800-2000 RPM 12"-13" TC that's strong and forget about a high stall speed TC.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:30 AM
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Ok. Do you guys think that the power my from engine took out this stock tc or was it something else? I think this was a factory 5.7l tc that cam off the car with the trans.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyrestore
Ok. Do you guys think that the power my from engine took out this stock tc or was it something else? I think this was a factory 5.7l tc that cam off the car with the trans.
It's certainly a possibility. To the best of my knowledge, stock TH350/TH400-type TC are not furnace brazed- that's to say the fins aren't secured as well as a good aftermarket TC might be. You may be hearing a fin that has broken loose inside the housing.
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:25 PM
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ordered a 2200rpm brazed fin TC with lockup....ill let you know how it goes as soon as its in the truck.
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyrestore
ordered a 2200rpm brazed fin TC with lockup....ill let you know how it goes as soon as its in the truck.
Was the stall speed estimated behind a BBC? If you're not sure, I'd ask.
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:20 PM
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They said it is estimated between 1800-2200 and they have made thousands of these for my particular setup and said this is the setup almost every one of their customers chooses with my motor/trans
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyrestore
They said it is estimated between 1800-2200 and they have made thousands of these for my particular setup and said this is the setup almost every one of their customers chooses with my motor/trans
Good deal!
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:14 PM
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Good job keep us up to date
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:48 PM
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But if you accelerate from a stop using lighter throttle, the truck will move at substantially lower rpm than than what the stall rpm of the TC.

I dont see a 700r4 lasting behind a 450hp 454 for very long.

I run a V6 4.3 TC behind my Vortec 350 and get about 2700-2800 rpm at WOT, rear tires stationary.
1998+ stock 4l60e TC's are furnace brazed.

peace
Hog
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 11:36 PM
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ok got a little update. The junkyard was having a 1/2 off sale so I decided to get another 700r4 trans since it would only cost me $60. I found one that looked like it hadnt been tampered with, ripped that out and found a rebuild stamp from 2007! WOOHOO! Matched that up with my new HD torque converter...put new front and rear seals in it and a new filter (had to go to 2 3 shops because everyone only had 1 part in stock)....reinstalled everything into the truck, started it up and started puking fluid from a cracked cooler line haha

everything was going so good! Had 30 minutes left until my boss closed up the shop so I raced to kragen...sold out of the metal line I needed....ran to autozone, as usual nothing but idiots behind the counter so I just decided to go back behind the counter myself and get it since time was running out....got back to the shop with 10 minutes to spare.

heres where it gets really comical.
Its now 6:50pm and the shop gets locked up at 7:00pm. I press the button to raise the truck on the lift and it doesnt go up. Look out the window and construction workers shut off 1/2 the power in the shop!

Haha looks like ill be finishing it tomorrow...to be continued...
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2011, 08:41 PM
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ok guys got it all done. The new trans and torque converter is working flawlessly. On the old setup I did find something interesting. On the front pump seal there is that metal piece that goes over the seal and clips to the inside of the bellhousing, 1 of those 4 tabs was popped off making it so that clip/cover wasnt on all the way. I think that might have been hitting the torque converter and causing the noise. Hoping that was the case so I can sell this trans and converter

Just one last thing. I think I adjusted the TV cable correctly but please verify.
I shut the motor off, pressed the tab on the cable so the slider moved freely on the cable, disconnected the cable eye from the carb and opened the carb to WOT, pulled the cable fully out and adjusted so the eye was the same distance to where it connects. Then made sure it was pulled out about 1/2" while at idle. Test drove it and it felt great. If I should do something different or if there is a way to verify that it the correct position please let me know. Thanks

Last edited by chevyrestore; 06-01-2011 at 09:03 PM.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2011, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyrestore
ok guys got it all done. The new trans and torque converter is working flawlessly. On the old setup I did find something interesting. On the front pump seal there is that metal piece that goes over the seal and clips to the inside of the bellhousing, 1 of those 4 tabs was popped off making it so that clip/cover wasnt on all the way. I think that might have been hitting the torque converter and causing the noise. Hoping that was the case so I can sell this trans and converter

Just one last thing. I think I adjusted the TV cable correctly but please verify.
I shut the motor off, pressed the tab on the cable so the slider moved freely on the cable, disconnected the cable eye from the carb and opened the carb to WOT, pulled the cable fully out and adjusted so the eye was the same distance to where it connects. Then made sure it was pulled out about 1/2" while at idle. Test drove it and it felt great. If I should do something different or if there is a way to verify that it the correct position please let me know. Thanks
that metal piece is a retainer used to keep the front pump seal in and it needs to be there.
as far as setting up the tv cable, with where you have it set, what you want to try is with light throttle, go out and let it shift 1-2, right after it shifts, floor it. you should get a 2-1 down shift. if you do, it should be ok, otherwise you can always hook up a pressure gauge to set the tv. you are looking for 65-75 lbs at idle in od.
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