Need fuel line help with an LT1 - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:30 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 250 Times in 232 Posts
I should be pretty easy to put the chevy pump on the sending unit assembly from the mustang that you were talking about.for quite a few pumps there were minor differences in many ,outside diameter and height were pretty close for a lot. I am sure you could put together an assembly that would suffice.I wasnt to sure about the pump you were talikng about. Were you talking about the pump/sender/flange assembly or some other kind of seperate
pump reservoir?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2010, 07:07 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,572
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 699
Thanked 881 Times in 749 Posts
old guy....
There is hardly anything that you can't fix with a Sawzall and a MIG. You're gonna be jackin' around with one Fosdick idea after another and it'll still be less than ideal. Cut the hole for a GM tank and be done with it. Run the exhaust up around the rear wheel wells above the tires if you have no other place to put it. If the tank shows from the rear, so what? Lots of original tanks show from the rear. If you don't like the looks of the tank from the rear, build a sheet metal apron to hide it.

I know you have the talent to do this right, so it just irritates the hello out of me that you are trying to Mickey Mouse it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2010, 07:51 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 250 Times in 232 Posts
Yeah I agree. Back at post 8+9 I suggested that modifying the existing tank or even better making a custom tank would be the best way to go.
I had a simple suggestion to allow you to get the setup up and running,but it wasnt something I would do to consider the project "Finished"
Take some time and get your measurements down for what you want and draw up a plan for a tank.
I personnaly would opt to build a custom tank and keep the original in case I wanted to change back to carb.
Either way I would find a way to put an evap system on it to contain the fumes.Nothing sucks like a shop full of gas fumes, except a shop on fire.
put some thought and research into how to baffle the tank or just put a small drop section in the lowest part of the tank for fuel to gather or better yet a simple combination of both.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2010, 09:10 AM
oldguy829's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Swapping to rack and pinion steering
Last journal entry: 53 coupe
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio Tx
Age: 70
Posts: 565
Wiki Edits: 88

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
LT1 fuel lines

Easy big fella. I'm not ignoring the advice, I'm taking it very seriously, and I have no intention of jury rigging it.
The tank already shows from the rear, and it is less than 7 inches deep. I've seen the results of a bottom sump (had to be 3 inches deep to make the caprice pump fit), plus a hump in the trunk floor for the fittings, I didn't like it.
and Yes, I was talking about the pump/sender/flange assembly. The smaller neck would allow me to fit it in the beveled area of the stude tank, and not hack the trunk floor. With an angled mount I may not need to add a sump area just baffles in the tank. I'd be more comfortable with the correct pump, and just use the ford housing.
Sorry for the endless questions. This is my first FI, computerized build, so I don't know, what I don't know.
What is the computer reading in the vapor cannister?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2010, 11:36 AM
35terraplane's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MN, ON THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON
Age: 70
Posts: 1,302
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts
fuel pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldguy829
Scrounging thru the inventory ( I have a great O'reilley's that lets me shop in the back room) and I found an intersting fuel pump.
93 Mustang 5.0 - 40-50 GPH, 80 - 90 PSI shutoff. Doesn't actually show pressure at idle, or however you measure it.
Has a very small neck (under 3 inches) that would be easy to fit to the stude tank. Would only need about a 1 inch sump to fit height wise.
[Caprice et.al have a 4 1/2 inch neck and would need a 3 inch sump to fit].
It has only feed and return lines, no vent to canister line.
Any downsides to using this mustang pump?

Afterthought - It's the housing size that looks appealing, couldn't I put a caprice pump in this housing?
I have an 5.0 H.O. ford in my 33 I had my tank built by Tanks, He put a chev. fuel pump in the tank, and told me that they put out better pressure than the Ford. I would think that if you took your stock tank in had them close off the bottom hole and put the EFI one in the top that would work, then you would have to cut a hole in the trunk to get at it, make a cover for it run your lines I put a big fuel filter close to the tank.

35 terraplane
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2010, 05:02 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 250 Times in 232 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldguy829
and Yes, I was talking about the pump/sender/flange assembly. The smaller neck would allow me to fit it in the beveled area of the stude tank, and not hack the trunk floor. With an angled mount I may not need to add a sump area just baffles in the tank. I'd be more comfortable with the correct pump, and just use the ford housing.

I thought you meant sender but wasnt sure. Sounds like the beveled area may be a good option.mid to lte 80 crown vic and merc marquis used a very small flange for the pump/sender assembly also.Probably close to the 3 inch one you are talking about.And yes it should be a pretty easy operation to fab a chevy pump to the blue oval unit. I have looked at that in the past myself and there are lots of possibilities.


Sorry for the endless questions. This is my first FI, computerized build, so I don't know, what I don't know.

No problem. There is never anything on tv and I like to talk shop, it just is not the wifes forte'
What is the computer reading in the vapor cannister?
There is a pressure sensor that provide a reading to the pcm for different things. It provides the computer with a reading which used to determine if there is a leak by the computer shutting off the purge valve(and closing the canister vent valve) and reading the sensor output value to test for a vacuum leak or pressure leak, and it provides a reading during operation to help regulate the purge flow amount so as to not affect fuel air ratio in the engine while allowing unburnt hydrocarbons trapped in the canister media to be purged from the system.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2010, 02:36 PM
oldguy829's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Swapping to rack and pinion steering
Last journal entry: 53 coupe
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio Tx
Age: 70
Posts: 565
Wiki Edits: 88

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
LT1 fuel system

Thanks for the advice guys, here's where I'm at. After chasing wild geese, I'm going as OEM as possible. Pulled a tank, complete with all connections, canister, etc. from a Z28 camaro. For installation in the shallow stude tank I'm looking at maybe a 1 inch sump plus baffles for the bottom and a 2" tower on top to make the assembly fit. Working on locating the tower under the spare tire to hide the hump in the trunk floor.

Brings me to a related question. Steel fuel lines? Brake lines are aluminum and carry 1,000 psi? why not aluminum fuel lines, for under 100 PSI?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2010, 03:54 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 250 Times in 232 Posts
brake lines are not aluminum,it would not hold the pressure.Brake line are double wall steel.You will want to use steel lines. There is a new copperized line for brakes that is out. looks pretty cool and it is not supposed to corrode.
You can by it by the roll but you have to ask an experienced parts guy for it as most of the Mc Parts people can hardly find there way to work.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2010, 11:26 PM
35terraplane's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MN, ON THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON
Age: 70
Posts: 1,302
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by latech
brake lines are not aluminum,it would not hold the pressure.Brake line are double wall steel.You will want to use steel lines. There is a new copperized line for brakes that is out. looks pretty cool and it is not supposed to corrode.
You can by it by the roll but you have to ask an experienced parts guy for it as most of the Mc Parts people can hardly find there way to work.
Doesn't copper turn green, and isn't it soft. I know you said copperized what's is it. I have not run fuel or brake lines for a long time. So I don't know what the new stuff is that's being used. I always used steel on both.
latech you would know more than me.

Later 35terraplane
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2010, 08:41 AM
oldguy829's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Swapping to rack and pinion steering
Last journal entry: 53 coupe
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio Tx
Age: 70
Posts: 565
Wiki Edits: 88

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
lt1 furl lines

My bad. It is steel. I bought it by the roll, bent and double flared it with relative ease several years ago. (I was picturing steel to be harder to work with) It's my AC lines that are aluminum.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2010, 06:51 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,168
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 250 Times in 232 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 35terraplane
Doesn't copper turn green, and isn't it soft. I know you said copperized what's is it. I have not run fuel or brake lines for a long time. So I don't know what the new stuff is that's being used. I always used steel on both.
latech you would know more than me.

Later 35terraplane
I dont know to much about it as it is new(at least to me out here in the sticks). It is obviously copperized and not copper. Alloys make metals stronger so I assume it is slightly stronger than a plain steel line.
Havent bought any yet, thought it was worth the mention. Its not suppose to rust because of the copper in the alloy.Well see.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fuel disappearing from fuel line at carb K and K Engine 24 08-14-2010 04:30 PM
Camaro fuel line issue, please help!! 80's rule! Hotrodding Basics 13 07-16-2009 06:49 AM
Locating Methods For Air Leaks In Mechanical Fuel Pump Fuel Lines J.J. LASALLE General Rodding Tech 6 06-29-2009 01:04 AM
efi fuel line sizing / fuel pump Blob Engine 2 09-25-2005 12:25 PM
Designing the fuel system 66Caprice Engine 9 05-12-2005 02:57 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.