[Joe Geisler]

I have 2 gallons of Red Urethane Amer-Flint II.
Instructions say 3 parts paint to 1 part uh-610Polyurethane Catalyst and 2 parts UT-900 thinner. I do not have any of that. Anyone know what will work???
I use to teach at Tampa Bay Tech at nights in the autobody trade course. Someone told me that another type of reducer and catalyst would work. I cannot find where I put that info! Need help if anyone knows for sure what will work. Contact me either thru 417-300-5990 or autoworldcorp2000@yahoo.com please!!! I am going to use this to paint my 1909 Ford touring car this summer.
I am also now in Reeds Spring, Mo. and no longer in Ruskin or Ft. Myers, Fla. I am still restoring old cars and building hot rods as always.

[evetsr]

Well sorry to advise you but for best results please use similar products that will mix with urethane paints and primers. I always use Kustom Colors or House of colors look them up on the web. Also you have choices to make to satin gloss, gloss, high gloss, wet look, so try to think about what you really want and go for it. Also a thinner is real important to urethane paints you have slow medium and fast dry temperature is very important to your area as well. Good luck and post up some good pics on the finished project.

[Joe Geisler]

I do not know how to post here nor ID myself as yet on this Forum. A Newby here!
I am a Full Service Restoration shop and the ex( retired) instructor for the restoration courses at Tampa Bay Tech and Lee County Tech in Ft. Myers. Have been in this business since 1960. % World of Wheels firsts. Several more in AACA and model T Ford Club International meets. I'm a ground up and rotisserie builder. Frame machine, English Wheel, Plenishing Machine, Welding instructor in addition, sorry for the boast! Not boasting here but stating facts. Facts that SHOULD be ON this Forum!!! So we know how we are talking with. Please excuse if I seem rude... not my intention!
I found some hardener and reducer with the same Amer-Flint label do not know if it will work nor if it is the correct P/N's. Amer-flint was made by the American Lacquer Co. which was located in Tampa Fla. I do not know if it was a mfg. co. or just a warehouse. A-F IS well known in the restoration community. The Company was sold about 15+ years ago, I believe, and gossip says that the product line was redesigned and not near of the same quality.
My problem is that I purchased this paint for my personal cars. As the owner of my company never seems to be able to restore his own cars while the business is rolling!!!
Well, I retired in 2003 and sold the building and property. Packed up and moved to Missouri so everything is jumbled all over the place. Started another shop here in Branson, Missouri. Things are NOT going well here in this business in this locality nor anywhere else so I'm told. Already existing body shops doing what little work there is here. So, I'm just going to finish up on some of my postponed for 35 and 20+ years now cars.
Problem is; I have this AF paint. Purchased 15 years or so ago. Porsche Red for the '85 Lamborghini and Real Red for the 1909 T. Will anything that is made today, or, is there anyone else out there with unused A-F product?? If it is kept in a cool dark, place sometimes they are usable several years later. I just shot some original DP-40/DAU-2 hardener from my same lot of saved paint... it worked! Or do I just dispose of it?
P.S. I still have and use, when I can, Lucite Acrylic Lacquer and as long as you mix up the entire can with none settling on the bottom, works fine. That product was bought in 1980.

[BarryK]

Amerflint was a manufacturer out of Florida and was sold to a major years ago who bought it to kill competition, the old number 2 was state of the art back then.
If you have the original paint from before they sold, I have the proper OH/NCO hardener set up for that product, if the paint you have since the sale, it will not work and be to brittle.

Also the DAU2 does not go with the DP90, if that is the original DP90 you are out of luck for matching an activator.
Chances of the DAU2 still being good are slim to none as that was discontinued years ago along with the DAU82.

If you want the hardener email me off of here and I will get back to you Monday as this weekend is filled up.

[shine]

your best bet is top call barry kives at southern polyurethanes inc . if anyone would know he would.

and your absolutely right about background. there's enough posers as it is .

[Joe Geisler]

PLEASE use my phone number in the first post above! I will return your calls!!!!!
Leave a time to return them I am at CST. I need your numbers to call about your info you said above. Also YES the DAU 2 worked in the DP40!! It was a little yellowed but did not turn into the proverbial cottage cheese on a test sample! It was my last can and I called Color Vision to confirm prior to shooting it. He asked me if it dried in about 1 hour... it did! The 40 is Green so the discolorment didn't matter as it is priming sheet tin on the inside of a building. Am going over it with Velspar White Enamel.
Again thank you!
We NEED a place to list who we are here with a little back ground. I need stuff and will post from time to time. Sometimes just a little direction. I taught this stuff for many years and ran my shop too. Do not want to be flooded down being one of the answer guys but will help usually when asked. I have learned a lot from some of the simplest guys over the years!! They are able to SEE things differently. I am a traditionalist builder and restorer. I do not do rats nor lead customs. But I do associate with those guys when I'm at shows and in town in the mid- Florida region from time to time. also St. Louis and Kansas areas.

[Hclann]

My father was Herb Clann Jr. The inventor of Amerflint and it's related products, technical director, V.P. and lead chemist at American Laquer. I was doing a search of Amerflint for nostalgic reasons and saw your post. If you contact Arthur Dabney at Mr. Money pawn shop in Tampa, I think he can answer most of your questions. He and his father were close friends of my father and owed a body shop in Tampa during the old days. If Arthur cannot answer your question I think he can put you in touch with Steve Halliday who was a chemist who worked for my father. The Mr. Money phone number is 813-238-3600 Good luck, if Arthur can't help or put you in touch with Steve, let me know at hclann@hotmail.com and I will try to dig up some other leads for you.