[Irelands child]

I have a TCI Stage lll chassis though a Model A and I am very happy with it. There was one problem that I didn't feel was of any significance until I went to the roadster body rather then the sedan I started with - they had welded the engine mounts over an inch too far back. Mine were not the only ones I soon found out. Sooooooo with that said, if you do choose a TCI chassis, weld the mounts in themselves. Now what the incorrectly welded in mounts will do is set the engine way back into the firewall. That's not too bad as you can relocate bits and pieces and modify that firewall even more - that is until you get to leg room - and they are tough to shorten and you really don't want to mess up that pretty '32 firewall or Deuce will make a "personal visit"



This is about what you get with an early Ford Stage lll chassis tho not with the driveline or rear disk brakes :


Dave W

[redsdad]

Originally Posted by Deuce

Because you want a chopped top ... you will most likely be buying a fiberglass body.

Oh come on Deuce! Buy the $24K steel body. Drag out the sawzall and cut off wheels. Close your eyes and tell yourself if you screw up you are out 24 large. Open your eyes and start whacking away. I operate best under pressure.

[66bb396]

Originally Posted by Deuce

The head guy ... Sal ... has been the general manager for years and he KNOWS 32's and their pieces. I spoke with him a few weeks back while he was in Pigeon Forge TN for a rod run. I bought a complete 1940 Ford stage III chassis from him about 10 years ago at the NSRA Louisville NATS. A good friend of mine ... was a dealer @ the time.

This is the last stack of stuff I bought. I am getting up a list for another order

I talked to a guy named Frank.

[327NUT]

TCI makes a very stout chassis and I highly recommend them BUT...thier customer service is/was one of the worst I had ever encountered. When I picked up my '32 Stage III chassis I had to deal with Carlos, I swear it was like the guy didn't know anything about thier products...or really didn't care.

When I got home (400 miles away) I found that I had 2-rear 4 bars for a '32 and 2 for a model A. I also had the wrong rear sway bar arms and end links(model A). I called them and he said to just send them back, I asked him who was going to pay for shipping, he actually laughed and said " not me". We had a few words, I complained to Sal, the sales mgr. and he ended up sending me the correct parts w/o me sending the old ones back. I understand Carlos got fired....finally. I hope things have changed but make sure you go over every part # when you pick up your chassis.

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by 327NUT

TCI makes a very stout chassis and I highly recommend them BUT...thier customer service is/was one of the worst I had ever encountered. When I picked up my '32 Stage III chassis I had to deal with Carlos, I swear it was like the guy didn't know anything about thier products...or really didn't care.

When I got home (400 miles away) I found that I had 2-rear 4 bars for a '32 and 2 for a model A. I also had the wrong rear sway bar arms and end links(model A). I called them and he said to just send them back, I asked him who was going to pay for shipping, he actually laughed and said " not me". We had a few words, I complained to Sal, the sales mgr. and he ended up sending me the correct parts w/o me sending the old ones back. I understand Carlos got fired....finally. I hope things have changed but make sure you go over every part # when you pick up your chassis.

This why I was happy to purchase mine from a dealer. I inspected the parts at his shop and the ones that were incorrectly packed and gouged up (many of the aluminum front brake parts) were not paid for until new and perfect ones arrived in a couple of weeks. And yep, I did hear my dealer yelling at Carlos!!

Dave W

[Centerline]

There is another alternative to the TCI or "store bought" deuce frame.

If you want to save some serious cash and have the time and skills you could easily weld up your own chassis. That's what I did.

American Stamping frame rails,



Speedway Motors center crossmember kit,



Pete & Jakes transverse leaf rear suspension,



Chrome Superbell front axle with Pete & Jakes chrome hairpins and shocks with Posi chrome front spring.



Ford 9" rear (narrowed by myself) and a set of 5 on 5 1/2 Ford wheels along with a mid '60s Nova steering box I picked up at a swap meet for $15.



Total cost...right around $3800.

[66bb396]

Originally Posted by Centerline

There is another alternative to the TCI or "store bought" deuce frame.

If you want to save some serious cash and have the time and skills you could easily weld up your own chassis. That's what I did.

American Stamping frame rails,



Speedway Motors center crossmember kit,



Pete & Jakes transverse leaf rear suspension,



Chrome Superbell front axle with Pete & Jakes chrome hairpins and shocks with Posi chrome front spring.



Ford 9" rear (narrowed by myself) and a set of 5 on 5 1/2 Ford wheels along with a mid '60s Nova steering box I picked up at a swap meet for $15.



Total cost...right around $3800.

Wow! nice job, and the cost sounds allot better then 10 grand.

[327NUT]

"you could easily weld up your own chassis"... Centerline, lets be a little more realistic, yes you did a great job on your rig and its very obvious that you have the time, talent AND the EQUIPMENT to build your own. How many guys do you really think have a shop and the necessary equipment like you do?
How much money do you have in all your stuff that you have gathered over the years? For you it was "easier" and probably very satisfying to build it yourself. For most guys it just not possible, thats why "store bought" is thier only alternative.

[66bb396]

Originally Posted by 327NUT

"you could easily weld up your own chassis"... Centerline, lets be a little more realistic, yes you did a great job on your rig and its very obvious that you have the time, talent AND the EQUIPMENT to build your own. How many guys do you really think have a shop and the necessary equipment like you do?
How much money do you have in all your stuff that you have gathered over the years? For you it was "easier" and probably very satisfying to build it yourself. For most guys it just not possible, thats why "store bought" is thier only alternative.

I agree, I have most of the equipment but just don't have the time and not enough experience yet to do all that fabrication.

[Centerline]

Originally Posted by 327NUT

"you could easily weld up your own chassis"... Centerline, lets be a little more realistic, yes you did a great job on your rig and its very obvious that you have the time, talent AND the EQUIPMENT to build your own. How many guys do you really think have a shop and the necessary equipment like you do?
How much money do you have in all your stuff that you have gathered over the years? For you it was "easier" and probably very satisfying to build it yourself. For most guys it just not possible, thats why "store bought" is thier only alternative.

Its a trade-off. It took me about 4 months to have the bare chassis ready for paint so yes, it did take some time... but for me the time spent is more than offset by the cash saved.

There are people out there that are making bare deuce frames for a lot less than TCI and if you shop around you still can save some serious cash without having to weld up your own. Speedway Motors offers this one for just a hair over 4K and if you're not hard over on a lot of chrome you can wind up with a rolling chassis for way less than 10 grand.



My point is that sometimes it pays to shop around before just writing a check to one of the "big" guys if you want to save some cash. Sure if your pockets are deep enough buying a ready made rolling chassis is quick and easy, but before someone writes a check, there are other opportunities to consider.

Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

The most important things you learn are those things you learn AFTER you know it all. -- Chip Foose

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by Centerline

There is another alternative to the TCI or "store bought" deuce frame.

If you want to save some serious cash and have the time and skills you could easily weld up your own chassis. That's what I did.

I used a set of ORIGINAL 1932 Ford frame rails and built my chassis ... using TC! components. But you and I both know that chassis building is not for everyone.









A basic bare 32 chassis ... without all the good stuff ... so he could add it as time and money allows is a good alternative ... IF he can weld and fabricate.

.

[Centerline]

Originally Posted by Deuce

..... But you and I both know that chassis building is not for everyone.

Quite true.... but the Speedway 32 frame or something similar might be a direction he could take to save some cash. With the basic frame pretty much everything else (for the most part anyway) is a bolt on.

Just for everyone else's benefit.... my chassis never would have come out as nice as it did without Deuce's help and advice. I think Randy has more experience with 32 Fords than Henry did..... by a long shot!


Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"Remember, if you didn't put it together with your own hands, its not really yours." - Tim Allen

[wheelswithinwheels]

I just read the responses to the OP's question as to deciding the way to go with the chassis and body. It was such a broad based question so therefore I am hoping to gather some additional info to the answers already so cordially offered.

I am also entering the steep learning curve as to what to look for/look out for in putting together my plans for a 32 coupe.

A main concern is buying the chassis and the body from different manufacturers and ultimately how the body will fit on the frame. Let's say I bought a full rolling chassis from TCI and opt for a Westcott or N&N body. Will there be issues getting everything to sit right? Is it a better idea to buy the whole kit and kaboodle (frame and chassis) from ONE manufacturer?

Lastly, I came across this primarily chassis builder on Ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/hardcorechass...id=p4340.l2563

I see that the frame is joined using tubular steel as opposed to boxed steel. Any advantages of one over the other? The design (boxed)of TCI and the aforementioned link differ greatly.

Tough question to answer but how do I know if it is a quality chassis (specs, welds, crossmembers etc. etc). I can appreciate Deuce's comments about referring specifically on vendors and not making recommendations without personal knowledge. I realize that nothing takes the place of making a road trip to check things out firsthand.

Thank you guys for any help and insight.

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by wheelswithinwheels

A main concern is buying the chassis and the body from different manufacturers and ultimately how the body will fit on the frame. Let's say I bought a full rolling chassis from TCI and opt for a Westcott or N&N body. Will there be issues getting everything to sit right? Is it a better idea to buy the whole kit and kaboodle (frame and chassis) from ONE manufacturer?

Rodders have been buying a body from one supplier and a chassis from another supplier for years. And Y E S fitment issues do arise sometimes. Most of the bodies will sit down on a chassis but may be a little wider than a Henry car ... That is the reason I suggest buying from a well known supplier. The cheapest price is usually of lesser quality ( IMHO ). If you do a google search for 1932 Fords for sale ... lots and lots of 32's will come up. Most are built using the cheaper parts and pieces. The cars that are Henry Steel and the upscale fiberglass bodies command more money.

The NSRA Street Rod Nationals are in Louisville KY this week. Most all of the better known chassis and body suppliers will be there trying to sell their products. You can actually see and compare products and talk in person to the manufacturers.

Have go NOW ...

[Deuce]

Every fiberglass 32 body I ever saw is too wide for a original 32 chassis. They are purposely built this way ... so they will fit down over the chassis. The only thing wrong with this is that it leaves about a 1/2 inch gap between the body and the frame rail. Not a problem if you are not running original style fenders ... but if you have fenders ... you will have a gap between the fender and the frame rail.

Some of the other things that bother me ( and others ) can be fixed with a little time and money ... if you have a little talent.

1 ) the windshield
Most have a glue in windshield. A metal frame can be fitted or a small faux metal trim and be made to LOOK like a windshield frame.

2 ) flat firewall
You can add wood and fiberglass to look like the ribs and moldings that Henry had on his.

3 ) filled roof.
Some rodders make a canvas/material cover for the top to look like a top on a original car.

Wescott makes the BEST 32 fiberglass coupe body, but unfortunately it is also the most expensive.

I strongly suggest you go to a couple shows and events to see some cars in person and talk with the owners. ASK if they built their coupes and ask about their experiences building them. Ask about the quality and customer service.

Be prepared to spent at least 20/25 thousand dollars and the time to built a car. Some folks can built one in a few months ... others take a few years.

It took me 3 years to built my 32 3W coupe but I only worked on it part time and when I wanted to play with it ... cause I already had a 32 roadster to drive, maintain and enjoy.

.