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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelswithinwheels

I see that the frame is joined using tubular steel as opposed to boxed steel. Any advantages of one over the other? The design (boxed)of TCI and the aforementioned link differ greatly.
It is basically just a matter of preference of the builder ( IMHO ) I myself prefer the box tubing ... because it is easier for me to get a close, tight fit ( where the welds go ). Strength is about the same. Box tubing is easier to weld and add brackets to. It is a flat surface so it is easier to drill and add holes and thread them. The flat surfaces are easier to sand, block and paint also ( IMHO ).





But I would NOT buy a chassis based on which tubing is used. But some frames just are not braced up enough ( IMHO ) for any serious horsepower.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 03:12 PM
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Deuce, thank you so much for taking the time to post you opinions and knowledge. This is EXACTLY the type of info. I am looking for. especially what you said about the box vs tube chassis and the concern whether running fenders or not.

Speaking of fenders and your description of getting them to fit with a purposefully designed oversized body in relation to the chassis, would you kindly explain to me what a "bobbed" fender is. I have not been able to find a description of what it is. I imagine it is a scaled down fender in size. Some coupes I have seen have just a hint of a fender outlined a few inches away from the body. I do think that I would like to run some kind of fender for asthetic appeal and to help protect the paint on the body because I want to run beefy tires in the rear. Also, some chassis manufacturers option a narrowed rear chassis. How would I know if that is what the body would call for, for a particular look?

Now that you informed me about the NSRA Rod events I am going to try to go up to VT next month to speak with some reps and vendors.

Thanks again so much!
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Old 08-03-2011, 04:08 PM
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Just to add my 2 cents. I bought the 34 full fendered 3/w coupe from The Rod Shop back in 2005 , they have since sold to www.scottrodscustom.com . At that time they built the car to the frame. They at that time they built their own chassis . The price was right and the body was the best I had seen. They were more of a custom builder at that time and required little prep before painting.


You might check them out,they are now located in Ohio.

Welcome to the Forum

Don
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 04:38 PM
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Thanks Don for the welcome info and referral. It all helps putting the pieces together. Damn, I was up till 4 am last night gobbling up all the info here and elsewhere on the 'net. Might need intervention soon lol.

Beautiful 34 btw!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
.....Some of the other things that bother me ( and others ) can be fixed with a little time and money ... if you have a little talent.

1 ) the windshield
Most have a glue in windshield. A metal frame can be fitted or a small faux metal trim and be made to LOOK like a windshield frame.
Correct. This bother's me too. My body is one of these "glue in windshields" too. I made my own frame that does a good job of "simulating" the original in about 8 hours. You can buy these faux frames, but they're almost $300. Mine cost... almost nothing. Made it out of scrap.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
2 ) flat firewall
You can add wood and fiberglass to look like the ribs and moldings that Henry had on his.
Yep. Mine was flat too. I hate that! This took one weekend's work to fix. Cost, about $10 worth of material.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
3 ) filled roof.
Some rodders make a canvas/material cover for the top to look like a top on a original car.
I considered that but quite frankly, if I had a original steel body... I'd fill the roof anyway. Personal preference I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
Wescott makes the BEST 32 fiberglass coupe body, but unfortunately it is also the most expensive.

I strongly suggest you go to a couple shows and events to see some cars in person and talk with the owners. ASK if they built their coupes and ask about their experiences building them. Ask about the quality and customer service.

Be prepared to spent at least 20/25 thousand dollars and the time to built a car. Some folks can built one in a few months ... others take a few years.

It took me 3 years to built my 32 3W coupe but I only worked on it part time and when I wanted to play with it ... cause I already had a 32 roadster to drive, maintain and enjoy.
I completely agree, going to shows is the single best way to educate yourself. Nothing will show you the in's and outs of the different body and chassis manufacturers better. BTW, I've been working on mine for almost four years and it should finally be on the road next month.

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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelswithinwheels

Speaking of fenders and your description of getting them to fit with a purposefully designed oversized body in relation to the chassis, would you kindly explain to me what a "bobbed" fender is. I have not been able to find a description of what it is. I imagine it is a scaled down fender in size. Some coupes I have seen have just a hint of a fender outlined a few inches away from the body. I do think that I would like to run some kind of fender for asthetic appeal and to help protect the paint on the body because I want to run beefy tires in the rear. Also, some chassis manufacturers option a narrowed rear chassis. How would I know if that is what the body would call for, for a particular look?
!
1 ) This is the best example of a bobbed fender I could find on the web. Except as a general rule the front of the fender remains uncut. A bobbed fender has the rear lower section removed.



It is difficult to run a tire larger than a 245/15 or 255/15 and keep everything under the rear fender. This is a 235/75 series 15 inch tire on a 7 inch rim.







2 ) This is a narrowed rear chassis for a 32 Ford. It is also sometimes referred to as a " Pro Street " option.



It would require removing the inner wheelwell so the tires would fit.

Some rodders buy a 2 inch wider rear fender for their 32's ... to get a larger tire on the car



Look at the rear fender where it touchs the frame ( about 3 inches or so ). That is where the gap shows up with a body too wide ... or a chassis too narrow. A piece has to be added to the fender and the running board also does not fit as Henry planned.

I suggest you look at my project journal to see a few of the things that must be addressed when building a 32 Ford.

Go here http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=1
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 08:07 PM
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Centerline, nice job on the windshield molding and firewall. The radius on the windshield looks right on. I like the chopped height also. I guess that if you were to get an operable windshield it would involve some relatively major surgery since it would have to be cut out and a new frame glassed in/paintwork blending etc? As far as items like windshields, moldings, chromed stuff like side view mirrors, could you recommend a vendor who makes quality stuff?

I found this picture which is what I what to work off of. I'm sure you hardcore deuce fans have seen it before lol. Seeing this pic makes me lean toward doing a full fendered car. Originally, I thought it would be wrong to cover up a fully polished blown, aluminum head sbf sitting up front. I changed my mind and prefer this more classic look.

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 09:00 PM
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Deuce, you are gold man! Thanks for digging out the pics of EXACTLY what I was referring to. Now this noob knows what a bobbed fender is. I like the narrowed rear pro street option and have to inquire if TCI provides such. I know that there are others who make a good chassis but from what I have read I don't think I can go wrong with TCI. It seems like they have a chassis that is the "industry standard", if you will, and it sort of eliminates any rolling of the dice with fitment issues if I went with a different manufacturer. If the custom narrowed rear frame proves to be $$ (I know it will lol) do you feel that the somewhat similar effect of fitting the wide tires utilizing the 2" wider rear fenders detracts from the overall stance/platform look of the car? Speaking of fenders, somewhat relative to the fender detail, is what some guys have done to C3 corvettes with flaring them for a more aggressive look and being able to stuff offset wider wheels underneath.

I am pouring thru your photo build as we speak. I have a lot of reading and catching up to do but thanks to guys like yourself I feel much more prepared to tackle a project as such.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2011, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelswithinwheels

I found this picture which is what I what to work off of. I'm sure you hardcore deuce fans have seen it before lol. Seeing this pic makes me lean toward doing a full fendered car.
Building a full fendered coupe is about 3 to 5 thousand dollars more in cost over a non fendered coupe. You have the cost of 4 fenders ( about a grand or more even in fiberglass ) plus running boards ( about $500 ) then add frame horn covers and splash apron. Then you need a headlight bar and MOST fendered cars also have the bumpers and bumper braces. Most fendered cars also run a HOOD. The rear end has to be fairly narrow ( 56 inches measured from the wheel mounting surface to the wheel mounting surface is usually what most rodders want ) and has to be in exactly the right place. Mine is about 3/4 ths of a inch back further than Henry Ford built his. The front axle needs to be narrow enough to clear the fenders yet not so narrow as to rub the frame when turning the wheels right to left.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelswithinwheels
. If the custom narrowed rear frame proves to be $$ (I know it will lol) do you feel that the somewhat similar effect of fitting the wide tires utilizing the 2" wider rear fenders detracts from the overall stance/platform look of the car?
Most rodders do NOT like the extra wide fenders ... myself included. The owner of the red 5W I posted hates them but he bought the car that way. He is planning on narrowing the rear end and installing the correct width fenders
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2011, 12:53 PM
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Here's another deuce with "bobbed" fenders. The American Graffiti Coupe.



And another. This one built by Stacy David on "Gears TV".





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Old 08-04-2011, 01:08 PM
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Bobbed fenders are often done to solve a state licensing situation, but even though the cars pictured are nicely done - really don't care for them just like not all '30's fenderless cars, IMHO, don't look 'right'.

Thank goodness for different ideas and ways of building a car though

Dave W
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2011, 01:45 PM
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I love 32's as much as anyone but ...
I strongly suggest you sit in one or even better DRIVE ONE before you invest months/years in building one, not counting ALL THE MONEY. 32's are not for everyone. I am 6 foot 2 inches tall and 32 coupes just barely fit me. My 32 coupe is NOT chopped.



( photo of me with my 32 ROADSTER in Los Angeles @ a L. A . Roadsters event pre party 2010 ).

As the photo shows, I am a fairly normal type guy. When a coupe is chopped 2 or 3 inches ... the roof is dropped down and most rodders have to lower the seat ... which affects the ergonomics. Henry Ford spent lots of money making sure his cars were comfortable to drive. I have a few friends who went the 32 route and now they have 40 Fords or something else which is larger and more comfortable than a DEUCE.



My coupe has the stock original 32 Ford 3W seat in it. Of course the seat has been rebuilt but the only real change to the ergonomocs is the tilt steering column.



I often drive my 32 500 miles in a day. Go here to see a little 550 mile 1 day trip back in June.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=596056
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2011, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
Building a full fendered coupe is about 3 to 5 thousand dollars more in cost over a non fendered coupe. You have the cost of 4 fenders ( about a grand or more even in fiberglass ) plus running boards ( about $500 ) then add frame horn covers and splash apron. Then you need a headlight bar and MOST fendered cars also have the bumpers and bumper braces. Most fendered cars also run a HOOD. The rear end has to be fairly narrow ( 56 inches measured from the wheel mounting surface to the wheel mounting surface is usually what most rodders want ) and has to be in exactly the right place. Mine is about 3/4 ths of a inch back further than Henry Ford built his. The front axle needs to be narrow enough to clear the fenders yet not so narrow as to rub the frame when turning the wheels right to left.

Most rodders do NOT like the extra wide fenders ... myself included. The owner of the red 5W I posted hates them but he bought the car that way. He is planning on narrowing the rear end and installing the correct width fenders
Deuce, I know this project is going to break the piggy bank when all is said and done. Problem is, it's never really done, is it? lol Having mild O.C.D. and pouring over minute details that an endeavor like a building a car as close to perfection as it gets is not a good match!!!
In a perfect world, where I had a fat wallet, I would go the route of the Walden Speed Shop chopped (Gammel) Brookville, most likely on a TCI chassis.

I think I have shelved the idea of a pro street narrowed rear. Being such a short wheelbase to begin with, this would limit the use of the car to just running aound town. It would look bada$$ but function over form does has it's merits. Speaking of the Gammel coupe, do you know what the Moon tank was used for on his car? Overflow tank?


Aside from costly trial and error, what would be the best way to ensure that the tire wheel combo would work on a full fendered car to achieve the best look? With a myriad of options and wheel offsets I don't want to sink $$ into Halibrands or Torq Thrusts only to have a fitment nightmare on my hands.

Thanks again Deuce for your knowledge
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2011, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Bobbed fenders are often done to solve a state licensing situation, but even though the cars pictured are nicely done - really don't care for them just like not all '30's fenderless cars, IMHO, don't look 'right'.

Thank goodness for different ideas and ways of building a car though

Dave W
I agree. Imho, (and noob) the Gammel full fendered coupe got it just right

I DO Like that red bobbed coupe that Deuce posted though!

The more and more I look at that iconic Graffiti coupe the more I see issues lol. The half dressed firewall, d/s door/fender reveal, and that front lowered radiator line. Would love to have one tho! lol Btw, why are the doors hinged that way (opposite)?
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:54 PM
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Centerline's car



Centerline, the more I look at your firewall work the more I am impressed with the quality. You have the detail perfect - moreso than even many higher end manufacturers that already have a detailed firewall, from what I can see.

It appears that you have a "modified" firewall. Is this the way to go for more room in the occupant compartment? I am over 6' so I can use as much room as I can get
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