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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2008, 10:44 PM
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As far as the idea of getting opinions and prices from local engine builders, so as to compare with "pre-packaged" short or longblocks, I agree that it certainly wouldn't be a bad idea to do so.
So far as this thread running long (because Weaz wants to get alot of information and feel confident in his upcoming decision{s}), I don't have any problem with continuing to try and help with any and all questions he may have, at least to the best of my own abilities. Can't blame a man for wanting to make an informed decision, can you? Besides, no one is holding a gun to your head and FORCING you to read this thread are they?
I will admit that perhaps some of his questions might've been able to be answered thru the KB as opposed to additions to this thread, but where is the harm in his wanting to know more? If you don't think proper advice has been offered, then feel free to speak up and explain not only what you think should be done, but also why you think it to be the logical choice(s). Quite frankly, I think it's better he asks all those questions now, as opposed to after the purchase(s) being made. But for now, I'll also stand aside for awhile and let the others impart their knowledge to this, so have at it boys. -Jim

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2008, 11:56 PM
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let me just start by saying this..i welcome everyones input and im not trying to offend anybody but this part of the forum is called tech help..with that being said...
Quote:
Take that ZZ4, slap on some AFR heads, your cam of choice, and you'll have a blast in that camaro.
so are you saying that i just take all that,slap it all together,and i'm good? how do i know what gaskets to use, or any specs i will make..like horsepower/compression/torque?
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2008, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
You certainly don't want to be cuttin' and slingin' pistons out of a NEW short block.
I wouldn't worry about the difference between 9.24 and 9.5 static c.r., although if it bothers you, you could have AFR take a thin cut on the heads to reduce the chambers a little. The rule of thumb is that each 0.006" cut removes 1 cc.
Frankly, it scares me a little to advise you to disassemble a brand new and fresh short block to cut the decks.
I missed this one ^, I thought they had you tearing apart a brand new short block for a half point of compression. Having read this I totally agree with techinspector1. My bad about the $200 I was looking at L31's with heads.. $2200

Seems it was my day for making mistakes.

AFR catalogue says Fel-Pro 1003 (which was already recommended)Head gasket, and a Fel-Pro 1206 intake gasket. You can get complete engine gasket sets or just wait and see what you need after you get your parts.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2008, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weaz4200
so are you saying that i just take all that,slap it all together,and i'm good? how do i know what gaskets to use, or any specs i will make..like horsepower/compression/torque?
techinspector posted a formula for compression. No one really knows exactly what hp or ft/lbs they're making unless its dyno'd. There are ways of making good guesses.. 1/4 times vs weight. You'll have a ballpark idea if you copy the AFR engine but those dyno engines are tuned perfectly, use electric water pumps or have 1 if any drive belts, fancy ignitions and headers that don't have to fit in anything. and gaskets for a 350 after 1987 for those roller blocks. though i don't think it matter aside from 1piece rear seal, oil pan, and a head/intake specific intake gasket.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2008, 12:19 PM
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well just putting it out there, this was my combination iono if it's any good. but u could get the edlebrock top end kit. dyno tested 420hp on a 350 sbc. dunno if anyone has had this package but for 1500$ it seems pretty good for me since u get the whole top end package... iono though thats just me..
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 11:49 AM
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does anyone know of any good (quality as well as price) machine shops in illinois?...i saw 2 that were listed on the site...but im looking for ones closer to chicago....thanks
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 01:29 PM
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You might contact the Volo Auto Museum and ask them whom they might suggest. tel.#(815)385-3644.
If you are in or near Lake County you might try A.P.S.Inc.on Milwaukee Ave. (Il. Hwy.21) in Libertyville,Il. tel.#(847)362-7624. They (APS) have been around for a long time and are reputable. I had them do some 302/351W heads for me a few years back and was very satisfied with both price and quality. (I knew these guys from when I worked at a dealership in Libertyville for a few years, and most people from around that local area used them, due to their good reputation).
There is also a hi-perf shop in Fox Lake that builds some very potent marine engines, but I cannot recall their name. (The fastest of the fast on the Chain-O-Lakes are usually powered by their engines). I've heard it mentioned that they do engines for automotive hi-perf as well, but I don't know that for certain. They are on route 12 (US Hwy. 12) near the intersection of Grand Ave. The folks at Volo Museum would likely know of them, as it's only a few miles apart.
(I moved to Alabama from Ingleside,Il., so that is why I am aware of the places that I mentioned). Anyways; do your homework and ask any shop that you may consider using, for REFERENCES of satisfied customers, and also check them out on the Better Business Bureau's website to see if anyone has filed complaints against them.
Hope that this might've been of some help to you. -Jim

Last edited by j.d.brown.042964; 10-11-2008 at 01:36 PM. Reason: added phone# for Volo Auto Museum
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 03:50 PM
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i was considering getting this block.. (http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/k...04486craig.jpg) (http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/k...t=DSC04488.jpg) (http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/k...t=DSC04489.jpg)
do you guys think its in alright condition..or should i not even bother...im looking to get just a block and taking it somewhere to get it cleaned and machined.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 11:48 PM
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The problem with "just buying a block" is that in order to determine if it's feasible to bother with a buildup, you must first determine the condition of it. This means having it checked for stresscracks, porosity, coreshift, boretaper, and all the other relevant factors. If you already know the source of the block, and it's history, then it might not be so much a gamble. In the case of buying a block that will need to be hot-tanked and sonic-checked and/or magnafluxed just to determine if useable, you really have no recourse unless the seller agrees to refund your purchase price + the associated costs of having it "checked-out", which is not a realistic likelyhood. I think you would be money-ahead to purchase a good quality shortblock assembly, as "presumably" these basic checks have been done beforehand. The types of problems that could render any given block useless for a hi-perf buildup will not be seen through photographs.
Therefore, I would encourage you to shop around for a shortblock assembly, and perhaps you might be able to find a builder/seller whom might allow you to have some "customization/changes to the basic build" for a nominal upgrade fee(s), (especially if they had just started on a new build and hadn't commited to specific parts yet).
If you are really intent on going with a build from scratch, then you might consider speaking with various speedshops/builders in your area and see if they might procure a block for you, as they would have a better idea of what to look for/what to watch-out for. -Jim
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2008, 12:31 AM
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Hey Weaz; any progress on your start of a buildup yet? (Just curious, since we hadn't seen any further mention on how you decided to proceed). -Jim.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2008, 01:58 PM
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the build as of right now

Quote:
Hey Weaz; any progress on your start of a buildup yet? (Just curious, since we hadn't seen any further mention on how you decided to proceed). -Jim.
im gonna do what techinspector suggested and start at the rear of the car...as far as the engine...im most likely gonna go ahead and take the block that i got for $100 and have it machined/cleaned(not sure where yet). get it bored .030 over get a scat assembly to make it a 383 stroker...deck the block to 9.000. this probably isnt the place to talk about rear ends but ive been lookin at the 12 bolt/ford 9"/as well as the dana rear end..but im undecided...because no one has answered my question in a different thread yet...so as of right now...i just stripped everything from the engine bay and from under the car...gonna clean it up a little and paint the bay and maybe the underbody(or just undercoat it)..
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