Need help cleaning up a paint job. - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 03:48 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Also.....what can you tell me about this primer spot. The large white spot where I peeled the paint back. That paint has been on there a while and when it was peeled the primer has the solvent smell still. Did he just not let the primer dry enough before applying the base......and the base flashed trapping the solvents.


I also did sand out the bubble.....it was just the clear coat that bubbled. The substrate was the original bmw paint so I knew it wasn't a primer problem in that case. I sanded it down through 3 coats to get to it.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 04:02 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 375
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
Ok first, and keep in mind this is just my opinion and preference onhow to do things, If you are going to respray the whole car there is really no need to blend base over the repaired spots, just put 2-3 coats of base on the entire care. If you would feel better about it, once you get it ready to spray, put a light coat or two over the primer spots and then put 2 more over the entire car, just don't spray heavy coats ont he spots or they will show.

As for the bubble in the clear, if it was the clear only then be sure you have sanded back to where the clear is still stuck to the base and feathers in to a fine almost non-existant edge. I will say the text book proper way to repair a panel with bubbling clear is to strip it to bare metal and start back, but I also understand that the text book isn't paying for every job also.

"Also.....what can you tell me about this primer spot. The large white spot where I peeled the paint back. That paint has been on there a while and when it was peeled the primer has the solvent smell still. Did he just not let the primer dry enough before applying the base......and the base flashed trapping the solvents."

Could be that the previous painter didn't let the primer dry enough, could be a cheap grade of primer, not enough activator, could be a lot of things. I recommend that if the paint is peeling and you feel the primer is not cured or of a reasonable quality, it should be stripped, or sadned to bare metal so you know the repair will last. Look at it this way, if the paint peeled off the primer before it will do it again if you don't change what is there. Kind of like putting a splnit on a broken bone, it may work temporarily, but not gonna do much good in the long term if it isn't fixed right. Paint supplies are way to expensive to have to go back and redo something.

Also I noticed you said the SPI expoxy was about 3 years old? I would call barryk and just ask him about it to make sure but if it has been sealed and never frozen then it should be fine. But again I would call Abrry and ask just to make sure, he will also be able to give you some great advice on things if you need it. he is a great guy with great products.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 04:05 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 375
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
Also if you are going to spray the whole car with base and clear then 600 wet will be fine enough prior to base, 800 is ok if you want to go an extra step but wouldn't be necessary. When you prime be sure to prime out past the places you repaired onto the base so you can get a uniform surface after sanding.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 10:42 AM
boatbob2
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: north florida
Age: 76
Posts: 1,374
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
painting the car.......

Hi,since you can still smell the primer,I would strip the whole car to bare metal,then using Barrys SPI primer,I would shoot 3 good coats,sand the primer smooth,then shoot the new paint job..I know its a lot of work,and expense,but,what do you do,if the new paint over the old,takes a dump???
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 12:09 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,231
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,353
Thanked 1,192 Times in 1,051 Posts
It really depends on ones expectations. What does glhx expect from this car in the end? Is it simply cleaning up a "driver"? Stripping the whole thing to bare metal is a serious overkill if it's only a driver. Stripping the car to bare metal is a HUGE, Make that HUGE undertaking. Does glhx have the place to do it and the time and the equipment? If he does, ONE PANEL at a time and getting that panel back into primer before moving on is my recommendation.

But for a driver, sand out all the flaws, spot prime where needed, seal the whole thing and shoot it.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to MARTINSR For This Useful Post:
carolinacustoms (06-17-2013)
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 01:28 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Question. Why seal it? What are the advantages of using sealer.

You are correct in that its a driver. Going down to bare metal in this case is something I don't have time for.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:14 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 375
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx View Post
Question. Why seal it? What are the advantages of using sealer.

You are correct in that its a driver. Going down to bare metal in this case is something I don't have time for.

I agree with both previous posts, like I said in an earlier post, the correct way would be to strip it and start over, however I also understand its not necessarily always practical.

As for the sealer, if you use epoxy where the repairs are made, and the clear is intact and not problematic elsewhere, you should be fine to go the route you planned. The epoxy will serve as a sealer for the repairs and the clear already on the car will serve as a sufficient barrier where it is good. The thing I can't stress enough is to make sure everything to be painted is sanded well and clean (very clean with wax and grease remover) or you will have more problems in the near future.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2013, 12:14 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,231
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,353
Thanked 1,192 Times in 1,051 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx View Post
Question. Why seal it? What are the advantages of using sealer.

You are correct in that its a driver. Going down to bare metal in this case is something I don't have time for.
It can be done as Kelly described with spot priming and then sand the whole thing and shoot it. The biggest reason you would really need to seal the whole thing is to make it a uniform color.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2013, 08:44 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 375
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
It can be done as Kelly described with spot priming and then sand the whole thing and shoot it. The biggest reason you would really need to seal the whole thing is to make it a uniform color.

Brian

Brian, I agree completely, but in an earlier post, he said he was wanting to prime, sand, then blend the repair with base, then base/clear the whole car. That's the only reason I recommended the things I did as far as this type of repair. Again not necessarily the preferred way, but I also understand he is wanting to get experience with blending techniques and that would be an effective way to learn since it is going to be covered any way.

Kelly


Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2013, 10:48 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Brian.....I was looking at the last photo on your profile and clicked on it. That's a nice looking family you have there.

Thank you both very much for your help. I was pretty stressed over this. I prayed I would get some help with it and I feel a lot more comfortable going into it now. I know it will turn out right. I always try to get better and better at this kind of work any time I can. Again thank every one for posting.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2013, 06:04 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 375
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx View Post
Brian.....I was looking at the last photo on your profile and clicked on it. That's a nice looking family you have there.

Thank you both very much for your help. I was pretty stressed over this. I prayed I would get some help with it and I feel a lot more comfortable going into it now. I know it will turn out right. I always try to get better and better at this kind of work any time I can. Again thank every one for posting.

Glad to offer any advice/help that I can. Just take your time, experience takes patience. If you have never done anything wrong, you probably have never done anything at all. I'm sure things will go fine and you will get a lot of knowledge fromt his project. Best of luck to you.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:51 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
unfortunately in this case im on somewhat of a time crunch and cant strip the car. i do have another problem that turned this worse than before.

the person who painted it before didnt take out any seals or remove any trim at all. they also did not prep the substrate correctly close to these areas. they taped the areas off and painted over them leaving lines.
'
after removing all these items. i saw the clear lines......i have clear peeling back 1/8 inch around every place on the entire car. around every opening and place where trim goes. i can feather all of this back but if i am correct wouldnt i have to primer and block the entire car. most of the spots will be hidden.....but there are some places where i loosed the peeling clear back to places that will be seen. if i feather back......all the places will be exposed

do i have any options here.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 11:07 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
at this point i think im going to leave the panels alone and spot prime all over the openings and where the trim goes. then sand it smooth and use the primer to take out the imperfections. it will take longer but the panels are so straight i would just sand all that primer back off.

does this sound like a viable option?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 12:41 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 375
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
Spot priming the problem areas should serve your purpose. Any where the clear coat is broken (sand through, fether edges, etc) be sure to prime those areas. Everywhere the clear is intact it will serve as a sealer in your case. Again as we discussed and as you already know this is not the optimal way of painting, but for a budget or DD it will serve the purpose well and last for a reasonable amount of time.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 02:38 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: tennessee
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
This paint job was not salvageable. Putting plastic over the trunk area to protect it from overspray.....I had the 2 year old paint wrinkle in places from trapped solvent and undried primer.

I took the second route and stripped the whole car with aircraft stripper.

Now I have to clean up the stripper. Wash with water 5 times and hope I get it.
Run over it with 80 grit to get the epoxy to stick and redo the body work.
Do filler work
High build and sand with 600
Paint and clear

Look how they welded that quarter panel in. I put extra spots in there to close it up more but I think I would have gone higher in the panel and removed the window to spot weld in there instead of going down the panel

Then I can high build and finally paint.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	1.07 MB
ID:	76286  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Assemble car to paint it? My first paint job! Big Jimbo Body - Exterior 11 03-10-2013 10:29 AM
The ultimate budget paint job thread /w pics (rustoleum paint) Project89 Hotrodding Basics 130 04-24-2012 12:19 AM
Favorite Paint for Custom Paint Job piercetdg Body - Exterior 0 08-30-2011 09:16 PM
Cost of paint Job - complete do it your self job at home Warrant Body - Exterior 74 07-13-2006 09:31 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.