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glhx 04-24-2013 01:56 AM

Need help cleaning up a paint job.
I've got a bmw I'm wanting to paint. The car was in a wreck where the fender was ripped off. The hood corner was slightly dented and will have to be filled a little.

Car is jet black....
The replacement fender is also factory black.
The trunk has a bubble in it from a previous paint job.
The door edge has chips in it
The door side has 1 chip in it
The hood in the corner will have to be matched in the corner right over the headlight.....the hood damage is at the corner over the headlight and is straight. The sheet metal was pushed down some but the lines are correct. I have a stud puller to get it almost perfect.

What is the best way to clean this paint job up? How much paint will be needed?
How much clear will be needed.
What brand should I go with. I'm trying to stay around $700 for paint and clear. I have all the materials already.

Will post pics if that helps but the description is pretty accurate

MARTINSR 04-24-2013 08:30 AM

Depending on where the chips are and how big they are you may need to paint the adjacent panel to "blend" the color making it match. This goes for the trunk lid as well, if there is "bubble" it is likely the whole thing is failing thus you would have to paint the quarters to make it all match. It is sounding like a complete to me with the info you have given and what COULD be needed. I could be a mile off but when you start talking about multiple panels, doing a complete to simplify things comes real quick.

And so you know, there is no such thing as "black" auto paint. So don't think "it's just black" and it would match. "Black" on a car is going to be extremely dark red, blue or brown, that is what "black" is and there is formula to mix up that black on your car just the same as if it were blue or red. A mismatched black stands out horrible just as a mismatched blue or red.

Maybe some photos would be of help.


glhx 04-24-2013 08:54 PM

Can you recommend paint brand that is durable and quality.

My paint codes for th black is 668
Code for bumper trim is 354. much paint for this re spray. A pint should be good for the trim

How much clear and base?
I have some spi epoxy primer but its 3 years old.

Another question. My wheels need paint as well. The stuff people use is wurth spray paint. They then use wurth spray clear. This doesn't seem quality to me. Is ther a clear I can put over this lacquer that will last. It's said to be be only try wheel paint that matches. It's used or ll German wheels

glhx 06-06-2013 12:06 AM

My paint job was a mess. The car was wrecked at some point with a used door and passenger side quarter panel included in the repairs. The door is silver and the quarter is white. The car was resprayed black over these two colors.

The door trim was never removed during the respray.

The trunk had a dime sized bubble in the paint.

Orange peel everywhere on he lower part of the panels.

Paint chipping on door edge and one on the quarter panel exposing the white and silver paint below. The door Handle has large chip under it exposing the silver.

Small pin holes on the A pillar show rust

The cars clear is sanded flat right now with 800..... No orange peel left.

Clear where the bubble was was sanded to the base.

I would like to fix the chips......the low spots where I'm into the base.....,and then rebase an re clear th whole car.

What's the steps here

glhx 06-09-2013 10:42 PM

I sanded into the base in some spots. I had to go deep into the base to sand out some paint that was bubbled up. I sanded it till it was flat and the bubble was gone.

Now I need to repaint and clear this spot.

Do I need to build this spot back up with primer or base paint to get it back to even with the rest of the panel?

Second question. Is clear sanded with 800 grit good enough to lay more base onto or should I go with 600 or a red scotch bright pad

glhx 06-15-2013 12:48 PM


glhx 06-15-2013 12:51 PM

im trying to get these pictures to work. for some reason they wont load from flickr

glhx 06-15-2013 12:59 PM

5 Attachment(s)
this is my first try at repairing paint

those two specs in that flat panel are paint chips. first picture
there is a layer of clear and black base that's chipped out. the under layer is clear and silver that was scuffed. its not into the primer. i have several spots like this. the door edges you see in the 4th picture and one of the gas tank filler door opening

the 2nd picture is bare metal and has to be re painted and primered. the metal was curved but was flattened and dented. i pulled it back out some with the stud puller. it will need filler. can i put filler here

the third is the plastic bumper. large spider cracks were sanded out.

the 5th picture is where there was a bubble in the clear. i sanded the bubble completely out.

i will be using epoxy primer for all of this.

i will also be repainting the whole car black unless advised otherwise. as of right now the paint has all been sanded with 800 taking out all original orange peel and will be scuffed with gray scotch bright and prep paste.

i have some ideas on how to fix all of this but i really need the correct answer and correct way to build all of this back to a solid base for re spray

how do you fix this.

glhx 06-15-2013 10:29 PM

3 Attachment(s)
This has turned into a nightmare.

In the door sill, there was a chip. I took a razor blade to it to see if I could get the chip to the point where he paint was still peeled back and left me with a mess.

Th primer still smells wet.
I've had the car a year and a half and whoever did the paint job on it must have messed up. I didn't know it was wrecked.

Why after all this time would the primer not be dry.

None of the trim was taken off when they painted. There are clear lines where the trim was. The edges of the clear are loose

glhx 06-15-2013 10:59 PM

5 Attachment(s)
i might be in over my head with this but i started it and need to finish it.

i have several things i need to know how to do

1 fix the chipped paint
2 take out the lines of clear that were left behind the trim and where the black meets the silver

3 fill in the places where i sanded into the base to get the bubbles out
4 understand why the primer didnt dry under that paint

glhx 06-15-2013 11:08 PM

3 Attachment(s)
lots of rock chips like these.

the door edge is full of them

st3gamefarm 06-16-2013 02:00 PM

What series is your Beemer?
You could probably paint a 3 series convertable (jambs and all) with 2 quarts of Concept, and have paint left over. A coupe would take another pint. I would not do a base clear on a solid color (non-metalic/pearl), it's just more opportunity to get it full of garbage, and uses more material ($$$$).
As has been mentioned above, get the right color mixed according to the color code, and check any variants, pick the closest one, you'll do well.

glhx 06-16-2013 02:19 PM

The Beemer is a 2002 330ci

I've got all the paint according no to the codes. Now I just need to figure out how to repair it. Are you saying I should sand it all down and re paint. What else would you use besides base clear.

I want to learn blending. I have found very little on how to fix a chip in the paint.
One video showed back sanding and feathering with half inch between coats. Then filling with primer. Then spraying paint on it and clearing the whole panel after scuffing with prep paste.

With that primer still smelling wet it leads me to believe the primer should be sanded out.

One of my problems is. If that's doing it in that spot. What's the rest of the paint look like. It's my daily driver so I do need it back on the road

carolinacustoms 06-16-2013 03:24 PM

Just a side note, but if the paint is bubbling, it is most likely a problem under the paint. usually involving some kind of filler or glaze that has failed due to trapped water or rust forming. I would atleast sand through the base color and see what you find under it where the bubbles are. After all the chips, bubbles and other imperfections are taken care of, prime all the places you sanded through the clear with epoxy or at the very least a quality 2k urethane like Evercoat, SPI, or something similar. Once the primer dries, wet sand with 600 to finish the repair. When you feel you have the places repaired you can wet sand the entire panel with the damaged places with 600-1000 wet, then clean with wax and grease remover, tack off and start by spraying the base color on the spot only witht he first coat and then let each following coat go a little further out while "feathering" the new base into the panel. This can be done by either pulling the gun further away as you go out from the repair or by turning the gun with your wrist, just becareful not to go to far with either technique or you'll have dry spray. Once you get the base blended you can tack off the panels and apply the clear. If you have several places all over the car it would probably be easier to just 600 the whole ar wet after you get the places primed and just base and clear the whole car or use a single stage if you prefer. This is just how I would do it, but keep in mind that blending is something that takes a bit of practice to get right.
Best of luck to you. Hope something here helps you get your car looking good as new.


glhx 06-16-2013 03:39 PM

That helps a lot.

I'm new to blending and wish to do exactly what you said anyway.....base clear the whole car after fixing the spots.

I would like to get this right the first can I do this.....

Sand out the spots like you said....fill with spi expoxy. Sand with 600 till even then with 800 using dry guide coat. Then spray base and feather out and leave it at that.

Then wait to see if it shrinks or is un even.

After I think the substrate is even I would scuff the base and prep paste the whole car.....respray and then clear.

Will this help in getting it right the first time.

Part of this is knowing how the materials will behave. Trusting that when I spray the base and then re clear that it really will be hidden. I've seen some videos showing that it does work.

Last time it was wrapping my head around how white clear that has been scuffed turns back to see through clear when sprayed. It's trusting the stuff will work.

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