need help with distributor
 

I have a 383 stroker with a mc1988 cam in my 73 impala, all parts have been up graded except my stock distributor; which was new thats why I used it also has points and dwell at 30. I have about 375 horse and 400 ftp torque. Was built for bottem end to mid range. I seem to get good mid and top but dont think the bottem end isn't were it should be.

1. Do I need to up grade to a Hei or Msd distributor and how many volts?

2.I have it set at base time 12 degrees Atdc.

3. Problem still running alittle rich, I have a 600cfm edelbrock turned out 1 3/4 factory set, also turned it back 1/2 to see if it helped.

4. In park I have Ideal speed at 750, Please help try to fine tune it!:confused: Thanks

The thing with points ignition when there are 8 plugs to fire, the coil has to build up charge between each cap contact so the time is limited and when you build up revs there is less time for the coil to build up charge, so the voltage to each plug will decrease. The points cam follower whether its plastic or fibre wears and the points gap will become smaller as well after time.
I use an MSD ignition with blaster 2 Coil on my 347 stroker and it starts as fast as the key is thrown, has no issues at all and stays in tune. Street use only.
It s all about dollars and performance IMO.
While working on a 6cyl, stroked BMW which we race,we tossed the electronic distributor and single coil away and installed a GM triple coil pack and crank sensor and reconfigured the computer to suit. Brilliant result for that car which is limited to 7400 RPM. It burns lots of E85 so you need a good spark for the extra volume of fuel going through.
Al.

your #2 point
 

u say "Atdc" of 12°... don't u mean BeforeTDC ????

This is true of any ignition that uses a coil. As revs go up you have less time to build the field charge in the coil. The biggest issue with points is they become unstable at higher rpm and can bounce or float. The electronic distributors either use optical or hall effect sensors and they are just as stable at 8K rpm as the are at 800 rpm. Nothing mechanical to bounce around.
A good HEI is more than most street engines will require.

Years back i found a CDI diy kit with an output of 80,000volts that ran in conjunction with points ignition. I put twin kits on a Z900 Kawasaki which i drag raced. Problem was there was voltage going to the plugs sometimes but mostly it was jumping out at the frame and handlebars.
Electrifrying ride.:thumbup:
Al.

I am with Delawarebill I hope #2 is a misprint. If not try setting it to 12* BTDC and use a vacuum gauge hooked to a vacuum port on the intake manifold. Advance distributor for the highest vacuum reading then move it back 2-4 in./hg. If engine pings decrease until pinging stops. Also you can adjust idle screws on your carburetor to the highest readings.

Distributor
 

I'm sorry for the type'o it was 12 btdc.

If you are in the market for an upgrade check this out

White Performance Detail Description

You just cant beat the value, they are easy to set up as well. Make sure you have firewall clearance. Lifetime warranty, 50 bucks, it is a no brainer.

Use it with this limiter plate, limit vacuum adv to 12-14 advance. The unit will add approx 20 deg vacuum advance out of the box, too much

Crane Cams 99619-1 - Crane Vacuum Timing Limiter Plates - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Try it at about 16-20 deg BTDC as the initial and 32-36 total. Use a simple 6/32 screw/nut with some lock tight to limit the mech advance on the HEI rotor plate, the hole is already drilled. The unit will have about 24 deg mechanical advance out of the box, too much.

Give it constant 12V from 15A fused 12 gage feed with toggle switch on dash or elsewhere within reach from driving position.

Have fun

Live Action!
 

Thats carzy I seen it on ebay today but didn't know about the plate! thanks :D