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Old 07-04-2012, 11:04 AM
joelster joelster is offline
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Originally Posted by my87Z View Post

as for my old 355 set up, yes i ran it at the track with p275/65R15 M/t drag radials and i had the car running 12.80's. these rear ends are a weak link but there are plenty of people out there running low 11's and even 10's with these rear ends still in there car. I've seen it and so have you, you just didn't know it. While you are doing a search on the whole 7.625" rear end. do a search on how strong you can make them and how fast people are going in them. you could also ask Fbird-88 on here, i know that i have heard him talk about using the rear end as well while pushing a pretty fair amount of power.
Fbird-88's car runs 12's so I don't consider that a good example of "pushing" a part too hard.

7.5- 7.625, you are talking about a ring gear .125" bigger. WOWSER, not going to make much of a difference. Yes, I have seen them last, with upgraded axles, posi's, girdles, covers, and then they are $1200 10-bolts, that still can't handle the power of a 12-bolt, or a 9" or a Dana. The ring gears are simply too small, no way around that. A 12-bolt has an 8.75" ring gear a 9-inch has a 9", and a Dana has a 9.75". They are like watching a porcupine play with a balloon. Hit them hard enough and they will pop. No SERIOUS enthusiast would stick with a failure prone part. Run a street tire with an auto trans and they will last a long time. Put a sticky tire on and you are playing with fire.

Originally Posted by my87Z View Post
"I could piece something together for not much more $$$ and make it much more enjoyable. IMHO vortec heads do not belong on anything over 355 cubes. They simply don't have the ability to feed it correctly. A 355 with a head flowing over 250 will crap all over a 383 on vortec heads. It would cost a lot less too being able to keep the rods, and crank and not needing as much machining. He's going to run a 650 dbl pumper which can support 450+hp, and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake which can go well over 500hp, and then crutch the build with some tiny heads trying to feed 383 cubes."

unless you are going with used alm heads then you aren't going to get away with less than 1000-1250.00, and then to run a hyd roller cam set up will cost you 250-300 for the cam, an additial 100 over the base price for the springs, and then suposing he does not have a roller block as he mentioned, another 300 for the lifters, then another 30-50 for the bronze distributor gear for a total of 1700-2000.00, where as the RHS heads are 800.00 and a set of hyd flat tappet cam and lifters is around 200.00 for a total of 1000.00

I dont know where you get off thinking that i am recomeding the vortec heads to him when i was recomending the RHS pro action 180cc heads and yes these heads flow 258cfm @ .500", it has been independtly flow tested and published. here are their complete numbers:

RHS 180 pro action heads:

to put this into perspective here are the numbers for the out of box Brodix IK200 alm heads:
.100-not listed

As per science, if something is able to produce the same or a greater amout of flow/air with a smaller diameter tube/runner then the air traveling in the tube/runner will have greater speed/velocity. the whole point of picking a street head is to find a head that flows as much air as possible within the lift range that you will be using while using the smallest runner possible as to creat greater velocity at the lower ranges of the lift where the motor/valves will spend the majority of their time.
You don't have to throw data in my face. Any aftermarket head will make more power than a stock Vortec head. I didn't say that you recommended the Vortec heads. I said they are a bad choice on a motor over 355 cubes. I can find assembled aluminum heads for under a grand.

Originally Posted by my87Z View Post
"The cooling of the engine is a benefit but the main thing is the ability to up the compression ratio and not detonate. That is something that is FREE that cannot be ignored. Put an iron head on a 383 and run it at 11.5-1 and try to run pump gas. You will have to tune it pig rich and take timing out."

This does not always work, take my motor for example, i am running 11.2-.3:1 with a 106LSA cam that has an early intake closure, my dynamic compression ratio is well into the mid 9:1's and no i can not run on only pump gas when i drive on the street i have to run 1gal of 110 for every 2gal of 91-93octane. now sure i could tune it and advance the timing so far that i could run on pump gas but i would also loose around 10% or my power getting there.
Hrmm, that's funny, because 93 pump is all I run. My quench is .040, static is 11.77-1. My dynamic is right around 9.3-1 as well. My car only runs mid 10's at 130 though. I'm headed to the track saturday shooting for some 10.3's hopefully 10.2's at 131-132ish. But what do I know. I would say you probably have a tuning issue, too much timing, too lean or have WAY too hot of a plug to not be able to run pump. I know guys with 12.4-1 static engines with milder cams than mine that run pump and also run 10's. A bone-stock LT4 engine had 10.8-1 compression and a cam with hardly any overlap. Care to guess what the dynamic is on that motor? Cam has 203/210 duration, intake valve closes 31 degrees ABDC. OOps, it has 10.29 dynamic. Those cars run on 91 octane as recommended by GM. Putting your car as an example doesn't mean you are right.
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