Originally Posted by my87Z
"Hrmm, that's funny, because 93 pump is all I run. My quench is .040, static is 11.77-1. My dynamic is right around 9.3-1 as well. My car only runs mid 10's at 130 though. I'm headed to the track saturday shooting for some 10.3's hopefully 10.2's at 131-132ish. But what do I know. I would say you probably have a tuning issue, too much timing, too lean or have WAY too hot of a plug to not be able to run pump. I know guys with 12.4-1 static engines with milder cams than mine that run pump and also run 10's. A bone-stock LT4 engine had 10.8-1 compression and a cam with hardly any overlap. Care to guess what the dynamic is on that motor? Cam has 203/210 duration, intake valve closes 31 degrees ABDC. OOps, it has 10.29 dynamic. Those cars run on 91 octane as recommended by GM. Putting your car as an example doesn't mean you are right."
Acutally my motor was tuned while on an engine dyno, not in my backyard. If i wanted to change the tune then yes i could run on pump gas, but since i said it was tuned on a dyno i have seen first hand exactly what my motor wants and likes, we went through multiple combinations, between different carbs, intakes, timing... The setting we stuck with was the one that ran the most consistant over multiple pulls.
Are you trying to tell me that a car will make more power on race gas than pump gas? Gee I didn't know that
. How about oxygenated fuel like Q16? Will it run better with that? No s**t it dynoed better when you boosting the octane and added timing. You tried telling him this:
Originally Posted by my87z
and no i can not run on only pump gas when i drive on the street i have to run 1gal of 110 for every 2gal of 91-93octane. now sure i could tune it and advance the timing so far that i could run on pump gas but i would also loose around 10% or my power getting there.
That's how YOU want to drive your car around. Fine with you. $15 a gallon gas can get old real quick. I'm sure I could run Q16 and get 30-40hp but my car is a street/strip car not a trailered race car.
Originally Posted by my87Z
if you would actually read my posts to this guy, you would see that i am not telling him that this rear is strong, i have flat told him that it is the WEAK
point in the build. Yes the ring gear is small is weak but a softer aftermarket ring gear can handle 400hp. i have offered him some ideas that will help make it a bit stronger. WHAT HAVE YOU HONESTLY CONTRIBUTED TO THIS THREAD BESIDES ATTEMP TO ATTACK ME
as the OP has blatently stated, he is looking for 400hp, can you, me, and 500,000 other people tell him how to build way more than 400hp out of a 383, DAH but that is not what he has stated that HE WANTS
To the OP, I hope that is "bickering" back and forth between Joelster and I hasn't put a bad taste in your mouth about this site. I certainly hope that you continue to ask questions when the arrise. and I certainly hope that the advise you get is ment for what you are looking to do, not someone elses idea of fun.
Nice way to make me out as the bad guy. Don't pm again either please.
You are defending the 7.625 saying how much better it is than a 7.5 when both are weak and prone to failure. That is very misleading to someone looking for info. I sold my stock rear with Richmond 3.73's to a friend of mine and he popped it at the track running 7.9's in the 1/8th. Richmonds are softer than stock. 10-bolts from 3rd and 4th gens are garbage for anything except cruising.
I offered solid info in post #13, then you countered in post #14 puffing your chest about your 11 second 3rd gen.
Who attacked who? Here's what I posted, pay attention:
"If it's an '87+ block it should be a roller block. That would be a big plus. "
"They will have to clearance the sides for the stroker crankshaft. Down by the oil pan gasket."
"Iron heads will be cheap, but Vortec heads flow roughly 220cfm give or take a little, and will be adequate for a 383cube engine. I would put an aluminum head with a minimum of 195cc port that flows minimum of 250cfm. Something like this will do:"
"Excellent intake, can't go wrong with that. "
"It's better to buy everything as one package to save a few bucks. Try ohiocrank.com to see what packages they offer. Their cranks are made in the USA."
"With an aluminum head you can go much higher on the compression than that and sacrifice virtually nothing. I run 11.77-1 and run pump 93. It will run on 91 octane but I don't push it when I run it on that. Personally I would shoot for 10.5-1 to play it safe and still make power."
"That cam is very mild for a 383. Your hp goals are very low and I'm sure you'd probably hit them or be close with the parts you pick, but next year you may want more power.
Just trying to save you on a teardown for next year!"
This is another thing I posted:
Originally Posted by joelster
I just have a feeling he will be a little disappointed with those iron heads, when he understands that for a few hundred more he could make more power, run more compression, shed more weight and keep the motor cooler. While the motor is out and everything is easily accessible, spend the coin on some good parts. I'm not telling him to get some cnc'd $2500 set of heads. Just some bang-for-the-buck aluminum ones.
I'm not telling him to change his entire build, just the heads.
You act like I'm trying to change his whole build. I'm just offering advice from seeing a year or 2 down the road. I think he will want more power.