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saginaw
gm started making saginaw 4 speeds in 1966,they came in 3.11 and2.54 ratios.in 1968 they stopped making 3.11 boxes and were replaced by a 2.85 low gear.by the numbers you posted i think it is a 2.54 but you should put it in low and count how many times the input turns vs one turn of the output shaft.as far as the bellhousing any chevy housing will do the bolt patterns are the same for v8,and small block flywheels(internal balance)it uses coarse spline clutch disc and come in 10/12 or 11 in. clutch.i ran these transmissions in 2 different street cars a 55 chevy and a65 chevelle both were small blocks and they held up fine and i drove them hard.hope this helps paul
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Quote:
Centerline HotRodsAndHemis.com "Remember, if you didn't put it together with your own hands, its not really yours." - Tim Allen |
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Externally, Saginaw 4-speeds are all essentially the same with a very few variations in the tail housing. They used the standard bolt pattern to the bell which allows them to bolt up to almost any standard bell, with one major caveat - Saginaw used two different bearing retainers differentiated by the diameter.
Basically, the internals are the only major difference and mostly just ratio changes. About half of the 3-speed Saginaw internals are the same as the 4-speed internals of the same ratio. I see only one groove on your input. Flywheel, clutch, etc are more dependent on your bell housing and motor than on the transmission. |
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Hmmmm...
Well I am bell housing and flywheel hunting so I am not sure what I should be looking for. Not sure on the bearing retainer? I am just learning on these transmissions. So one groove? I've got some telling me its a 2 groove and I have heard 3 groove, but I am not sure where that one came from. I am trying to get it nailed down as I may attempt a rebuild before putting her in place. Thanks for the replies and lets keep em' coming. As you can see in one of the pics she is currently in paint prison so I am trying to get it figured out when she brakes out. So I paid $200 for the tranny and it came with the Hurst Comp plus shifter and ball. Did I do okay? Also, I believe it is a bench seat shifter which is the route I am going. |
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Put the trans in first gear / mark the input shaft and output shaft / count the number of turns it takes to make the output go around exactly once /that give you an idea of the ratio in first gear. Low tech but it works
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Generally speaking the grooves on the clutch shaft tell the ratio story,no groove,2.85 first gear,one groove is 2.54,2 grooves 3.11 and 3 grooves is 3.50.There might be an exception to this on GM replacement clutch gears.Usually the 3.50 gear version has a lump on the bottom of the tailhousing for the Vega type car torque rod .I Believe the 3.11 first gear versions were used in the V6 Vega chassis cars with BOP nameplates.
The strongest is the 2.54 gear ratio due to the "head gear" ratio with the 3.50 being the weakest. |
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Saginaw
You needn't be concerned about the grooves. Do what the other fellas told you. Put it in first and calculate the way they said. A rebuild on that trans will probably require very few parts. First you have to look inside. Blocker rings,maybe a bearing or two, unless its rusty inside, which I doubt. Good buy for 2 bills. May need a bushing kit for the shifter as they are possibly worn, and that's cheap. It's a decent "crusier" trans if you don't beat on it and that is definitely a bench-seat shifter. I had one in a 55 210, but I beat on mine and broke it. Barnetts 4 speeds has any parts you may need. Make sure your pilot bearing is in good shape or, if there's none present, put one in the crank. I can't remember the number of times guys would bring in their cars that wouldn't shift, or wore out their input bearings, or other crap, and upon removing the trans, oops...no pilot bearing. "I didn't know it needed one" is no excuse. Good luck with it and mainly, try to have fun. Money is tight these days so you do the best you can with what you can afford.
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