[BlackScorpion]

Just got this vehicle a few weeks ago and was trying to stat it up, all it does is crank tried starting fluid , checked for spark. (getting very little) I took the plugs out and tried to get information to get new ones, the only thing on the spark plug is AC 7 ? looks like a rapid fire spark plug. I'm not sure.
It is a 8 cyl motor had dual carb. See the Pics below. Any suggestion or help would be greatly appreciated.





Hope these help.

[woodz428]

You didn't say much about how long ago the build was or whether it was sold because of the problem you are having. I'd first verify the plug wires are in the correct order. Those HEI had some propblems burning through the cap so that it would not fire or fire against itself. can't recall exactly. I do know that you can pull the coil off and see the hole through the cap where it contacts, you might check that. That's about all I can offer as a Ford guy. You also didn't mention any compression testing or leakdown test that should be part of a diagnosis if the simple stuff doesn't pan out.

[ericnova72]

AC R45ts would be the standard AC Delco replacement. Looks like everything has sat for a few years, I would definately get a new cap and rotor for the distributor because they corrode up, along with a new set of high-quality plug wires-Moroso, Taylor, MSD, w/ a spiral wound core 8mm+ size (not Autozone, Pep Boys, or Napa stock replacement carbon resister core types ).

[BlackScorpion]

Originally Posted by woodz428

You didn't say much about how long ago the build was or whether it was sold because of the problem you are having. I'd first verify the plug wires are in the correct order. Those HEI had some propblems burning through the cap so that it would not fire or fire against itself. can't recall exactly. I do know that you can pull the coil off and see the hole through the cap where it contacts, you might check that. That's about all I can offer as a Ford guy. You also didn't mention any compression testing or leakdown test that should be part of a diagnosis if the simple stuff doesn't pan out.

Thanks for the reply, got this vehicle a few weeks ago from my brother -in law, the car has been sitting in his garage for 4 years. He just let it sit there.
I tried removing the Rotor Cap and looks like a project, I'm going to need to remove the carb above it to get it out. I'm fairly new to this so please forgive my lack of knowledge. As far as compression testing or leakdown test, i wouldn't know how to do one, not that advanced.

Originally Posted by ericnova72

AC R45ts would be the standard AC Delco replacement. Looks like everything has sat for a few years, I would definately get a new cap and rotor for the distributor because they corrode up, along with a new set of high-quality plug wires-Moroso, Taylor, MSD, w/ a spiral wound core 8mm+ size (not Autozone, Pep Boys, or Napa stock replacement carbon resister core types ).

Thanks EricNova, this was my original intention. But when i got the distributor Cap loose i couldn't get it out. It seems that the carb next to it needs to be removed so i can take the Cap out. There is no room between the firewall and Carburator.

[66GMC]

It sort of looks like that engine is mounted by that cradle that attaches to the water pump.

I wonder if you might be able to lower the engine with a floor jack so that it pivots forward enough to get at that distributor?

Those old-style HEI dist's were pretty famous for burning a hole clean through the rotor when the resistance in the wires got bad. All of the spark then jumps directly to the dist shaft ... taking the path of least resistance.

When replacing that cap and rotor INSIST on having the better quality components which will have BRASS (not aluminum) contacts.
It might be worth replacing the module as well, which is about the only other thing that commonly fails.

NAPA# ECH-RR171 cap $26.99, # RR173 rotor $8.99, TP45 Module $43.49


You may even try pricing a reman distributor... I think they are pretty reasonable.

Here in Canada, they sell Autoline brand, which comes complete with the cap and rotor, but not the coil.

Again in Canada, NAPA sells a "Pro Elite" plug wire set that has the spiral core.

Yeah, I USED to work for NAPA.

[ericnova72]

Looks like you will also have to remove the upper half of the tunnel ram also after you remove the carb. Instructions with most tunnel rams will tell you that they cannot be used with an HEI distributor because they are too big around, which is the problem that you have.
If you think that the motor is ok internally, you might want to consider switching to a small diameter elecronic distributor, such as the MSD, Pertronix, etc ready-to-run type. They are very nicely built, or you could just convert a points distributor to electronic using a conversion kit if you want to low-buck it. Just be aware that the smaller distributors require the use of a seperate coil, it's not built into the top of the cap like your current HEI.
I've got to say, I have never seen an HEI in a early rod like yours and now I know why- impossible to service without dis-assembling the tunnel ram .
P.S.
That fuel line is kind of scary where it runs against the firewall and distributor, not to mention it ain't very pretty.

[66GMC]

Originally Posted by ericnova72

P.S.
That fuel line is kind of scary where it runs against the firewall and distributor, not to mention it ain't very pretty.

I was thinking that as well ... LOL, as wall as the mysterious concept of the "vacuum balance hose" that goes from the ported vac port between the two carbs.

Does the distributor have a vacuum advance can on it?
Where does the vac hose from it go?
I suppose that it could be running directly to manifold vacuum, and that might be OK. If so, just put a couple of vac caps on those outlets, so that guys like me won't tease ya.

[F&J]

If it is so much work to pull the cap, I'd try using a 12v jumper to the power terminal on the HEI coil first.

[Double_v23]

I see all kinds of things that could be done better on that motor. It is really cobbled together. I don't want to knock your ride but what is on the outside is usually an indicator of what is on the inside...I hope your brother in law didn't build it.

[BlackScorpion]

[QUOTE=Double_v23]I see all kinds of things that could be done better on that motor. It is really cobbled together. I don't want to knock your ride but what is on the outside is usually an indicator of what is on the inside...I hope your brother in law didn't build it.[/QUOTE

Double, I got the ca from my brother in-law, he used it for a few parades and then it sat in his garage for about 4 years. I don't think he built it he 's not that mechanically inclined, if i remember correctly some owed him some money and paid him with the vehicle. Only reason i took the vehicle from him was that he was going to junk it.

[F&J]

Only reason i took the vehicle from him was that he was going to junk it.

What a great gift I'd be making it run and take it for a ride You can sort it all out at some point, but it's a great start for sure.

[BlackScorpion]

Originally Posted by F&J

What a great gift I'd be making it run and take it for a ride You can sort it all out at some point, but it's a great start for sure.

Thanks, Yeah it's a start.

[BlackScorpion]

Originally Posted by ericnova72

Looks like you will also have to remove the upper half of the tunnel ram also after you remove the carb. Instructions with most tunnel rams will tell you that they cannot be used with an HEI distributor because they are too big around, which is the problem that you have.......

Well with a little tinkling I got the Distributor cap off, I would like to replace it with a smaller one, but need to do it on a low budget, I just need to get the car running for now. What would be my best bet? I took some pictures of it as you see below.

BTW What is the the MSD version i would need to replace the distributor?

Top View :


and close up:


Frank

[ericnova72]

What you have looks pretty worn out. You could replace it with a new reconditioned version from your local parts store or an aftermarket unit from Summit or Jegs fairly cheaply, or if you want a smaller cap size replace it with a reconditioned stock points type and install an electronic conversion kit into it such as the Crane XR-1 or Pertronix Ignitor and add the seperate coil, MSD Ready-to-Run Small Cap would be nice but is expensive($300+). Anything other than the HEI you have now will require the seperate coil as the HEI is the only one of its type with the coil mounted in the cap. How much do you want to spend?

[F&J]

Originally Posted by ericnova72

What you have looks pretty worn out. You could replace it with a new reconditioned version from your local parts store or an aftermarket unit from Summit or Jegs fairly cheaply, or if you want a smaller cap size replace it with a reconditioned stock points type and install an electronic conversion kit into it such as the Crane XR-1 or Pertronix Ignitor and add the seperate coil, MSD Ready-to-Run Small Cap would be nice but is expensive($300+). Anything other than the HEI you have now will require the seperate coil as the HEI is the only one of its type with the coil mounted in the cap. How much do you want to spend?

In this view, does it look like the distributor won't come out without hitting the notch in the firewall??

Yes, you would have to pull off the upper half of the tunnel ram, but I doubt if the dist can miss the notch. Any other opinions? I see the Corvette front mount, so maybe the front of the motor could be lowered enough to get the dist out?? but then you'd have to pull the water pump to get the Vette mount off?