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Old 03-21-2011, 09:43 PM
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Need help preparing for paint - G-Body

I need to get my car sanded down and primered, I've never done it before but would like to try. Not so close up photos are in the bucket.

I have an air compressor with specs as follows: 5.2 HP, 25 gallon, 4.9scfm@40psi, 3.5scfm@90psi, 150 max psi. I just got back from the paint store and bought a Durablock DA Sander and 6 6'' 220 grit sandpaper. The salespeople showed me two different types of primer priced at about $70 and the other $130, I was also told I would need primer sealer which is basically the same price. Is there an alternative cheaper route because I want to get it done but I don't have that kind of money right now. I asked him about the rattle cans self etched(?) which were priced at $12 a can and he said I would probably need a whole case and I'm sure sealer as well.

Also, If someone could walk me through the process, I would be appreciative. I don't think I would be getting it painted right after primer due to money and it is in a garage right now but I would like to keep it outside after it has primer. Also I have someone who will take care of the bondo part. Finally, I won't consider this the last paint job for years to come, I just want to get it to look a little more decent before I drive it so it doesn't have to be perfect this time.

http://s855.photobucket.com/albums/a...TerMaSo/Regal/

I will gladly get some close up pics if need.

Side question: What is the difference between black primer and flat black paint? Would flat black count as primer?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:12 PM
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If you don't know what you are doing, don't use a DA. Use a sanding block. Your car might have lacquer paint on it from the factory. If there is lacquer on there, it needs to come off before you use modern paint on it. Use epoxy primer. If you are looking for the hot rod black look, they make epoxy primer in black. It won't last a long time in the elements before it starts to fade.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:25 PM
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Epoxy primer can also be used as a sealer. Epoxy primer is not high build. The body work has to be good and you will be able to get away with it as the only primer.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:31 PM
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ok, I wont use a DA, ill practice with that on something for the future. I'm gonna use rattle cans for this first time, again quality is not the most important thing right now. The epoxy primer is nice but I can't afford it right now at $18/can. I'm gonna avoid the sanding part and just use chemical stripper even though I know there is a big debate over it. For primer, I'm gonna use some high temp black paint cans. Again, this is because of money issues and I just want it to look half-way decent to drive. Just a couple more questions

After I get the car down to bare metal (via chemical stripping), what grit should I go to first and how high should I work my way up?

I know the high temp paint will fade and I'd be willing to buy more cans if and when the time comes but how would it handle the rain? Will it suffice as temporary rust prevention as long as I keep the coat thick? And I'm guessing since its "high temp" the sun couldn't do any serious damage, right?
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:18 AM
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If you have a compressor why would you use rattle cans? It will cost you more for rattle cans than it would to buy epoxy primer. You can't cut corners if you want it to look decent. If you want cheap and fast you can use tractor paint.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:37 AM
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Just don't let Tommy from TV show you how to paint it.
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