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Old 09-03-2012, 05:32 PM
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how many rockers are noisey?

constant noise or intermident. comes an goes?

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Old 09-03-2012, 05:42 PM
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Yea i got a 3500+ stall made a big difference 35 mph burnout ....so do i need to take out the lifter and clean it out or will it go away
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:45 PM
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It all the time sounds like maybe 1 or 2 mite be ticking .it dose it at higher rpm's to..it sounds a lot quiter but not that much after the oil change
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
it can , yes. I;d give the rotella T oil time to work its magic.

Like I said you may need to monkey with the rocker nut adjustment.
Mine likes generous preload.

Right at the top, typical hot rodder hyd lifter preload is noisey on mine.

You do have screw in or pinned rocker studs , right?
So a full turn of preload ..that sounds like a lot ..i have a rocker studs
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:02 PM
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yup give it all the lifter preload it needs to run quiet/ short of bottoming out the lifter plunger.

A 50 weight racing oil may help. Thicker oil ='s less lifter bleed at idle noise.
Just remember when suing a 50w racing oil to get the oil warmed up before going WOT especially i the winter time.
Thick cold oil does not like to flow on winter mornings.


By the times you finish monkeying around with this to no end you will see the wisdom of
using a Cool Isky street strip solid lifter cam in your type of motor.

They are not noisey at idle. and not hard to keep adjusted. and rev higher and make more power.

And you end up R and R ing valve covers a lot less times.

Comp has good solid lifter stuff too but I really like the Isky stuff for this.

Yup you may have to remove the lifters and clean them.

Dirt in Hyd lifters sucks.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:12 PM
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Yea i will most likely get a solid cam ..i just don't want the cam to get messed up a destroy my bottom end.so as long as the push rods are spinning it should be ok as far as the cam and lifters go
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:54 PM
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Ok i re-adjusted the valve lash and still a tick .but when i was adjusting them i noticed one of the rockers slowly raising back up when i stoped bumping the motor over .same side it is ticking from .could that be the bad lifter
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:13 PM
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Well i took the intake off to inspect the lifters and found one of the cam lobe was roast .the lifter had some pitting and the cam lobe had flat spots ....soooo now im thinking what do the main/rod bearings look like.what is the chance that the bearings are ok
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:30 PM
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I will probably never buy another comp cam.this is the third one that has failed.and yes i did the proper break in for the cam.before i had the tick it ran great had good power but then it just took a ***** on me out the blue.im done with comp cam i rather run a summit special before i buy another comp cam
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:37 PM
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I use and recommend Isky flat tappet cams
Solid and hyd for all flat tappet performance cam applications.

High quality, in house manufacturing . Use Isky or GM lifters too.

I use Moly slip E oil supplement in the oil to aid in successful cam lifter breakin and long life.

ISKY Racing Cams - Do It Right. Race with the Legend. Camshafts, Connecting Rods, Valve Springs, Lifters
Molyslip Canada Inc. :: Molybdenum Lubricants, Performance Lubricants, Copaslip Anti-Seize, EP2 Grease, Wear Reducing Lubricants, Oil Additive

You need to now tear it down and clean out all that metal.
and check your lifter bores.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:44 PM
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You think the main and rod bearing didn't get fried .im pulling the motor next weekend to inspect the motor
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:53 PM
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The only way you will know for sure is to pull it apart and look.

Here are a few isky part numbers to consider for replacement.

Isky solids "Z-27" 201027 "534-A" 201534 (degree this one in on a 102 intake C/L)

its easier to set the valve lash cold. Set the cold valve lash .002" to .004" tighter than the "hot lash" cam card lash spec.

Isky Hyd 286 Mega Cam 201286/6

292H Mega cam 201292

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-08-2012 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:59 PM
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If i do put another cam in the highest lift that i would be comfortable is .510 because the 291 heads are stock and have pressed in rocker studs
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:00 PM
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The Comp XE284H-10 cam I have in my 406 was custom made for me "in house"
and seems to be holding up.

Well with any .500" lift cam like that in a SBC you would want to at least drill and roll pin the rocker studs or
use screw in studs. The pressed in rocker studs will pull out with hi perf cams and springs. The valve guide-seal to retainer clearance must be checked.
Correct springs must be used with all these cams too.

The Isky Z-27 mechanical cam #201027 with .507" gross lift has .491" net lift w lash. (1.5:1 rockers .016" hot lash)

It's a sweet street/strip cam. Use Isky 235-D springs or the Isky dual springs or something equal.

You'll probabily really like this one and have the valve covers off and on a lot less often all said and done.

I have a little trick I do when breaking in a cam like this in a SBC. I use old stock SBC valve sprngs set up at max installed height. ( about 60-70LBS seat pressure under 200 open)
No shims etc 1.75"++ max installed spring height to reduce spring pressure for cam break in.
Then I install the correct high perf springs at the required installed height. (110 to 130 seat 300-340 open)
The reduced spring pressure on the cam lobes (and the Moly slip) really helps the cam and lifters get friendly during initial run in.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-08-2012 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:08 PM
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Yea i probably got a defected cam ..i broke in the cam and used the comp cam zinc break in additive .the motor had about 800 to 1000 miles on it before the cam went south
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