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Old 01-02-2014, 12:30 AM
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Need help with transmission install

Hello People,

Today i dropped the th350 out of my 1968 firebird. I am no installing a 2004r in place. the motor is in the car and since im in a single car garage i cannot take the motor out. I am having trouble lining up the motor with the trans, it seems like the motor is angled downward and the trans is more level on a trans jack. i struggled tonight trying to get the two mated and after an hour i called it a night because it was getting to dark and pretty cold. Any tips on how to get the two lined up and bolted together?

thanks

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Old 01-02-2014, 04:52 AM
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Before pulling the trans,you should have supported the rear of your engine with a jack & block of wood.This too will help somewhat in leveling the engine.You will have to get them both to the same angle & perfectly inline w/ ea other.I usually only use the jack to get the trans in close position'then position it & install by hand.
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:23 AM
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when installing a different transmission make sure the line up or Dowell pins are all correct. make sure there are not two Dowell pins in the same spot on the engine and trans. the engine can easily be titled with another jack, even a roadside scissor jack will do the job.
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:24 AM
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also make sure your torque converter is installed correctly
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:04 AM
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Push the torque converter towards the trans an turn it at the same time, be sure to have trans fluid in the torque converter also.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:43 AM
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alignment studs.

I cut the heads off some 3 in long bolts and slot the ends with a hacksaw so a screwdriver will work. Install those into the engine and then you can hang the trans on those and then slide the trans up to the engine and start the regular bolts, then remove your temporary studs.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:46 AM
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I do the stud thing too. Works great. I first round the end with a bench grinder or lathe and give them a bullet shaped end and use nuts. I find them easier to work with then bolts.
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starin View Post
it seems like the motor is angled downward and the trans is more level on a trans jack.
A real trans jack has the ability to adjust the trans in pitch and roll as well as up and down. If your's doesn't have this, go rent one that does. The first time I ever swapped an AT (in my young and stupid days), I tired with a regular floor jack. Never again. I've since bought the HF trans jack when it was on sale for $149. It works great and makes life MUCH easier.
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:02 AM
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great, i'll try the long bolt method this weekend and put a jack under the engine as well, wish me luck

thanks
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:10 AM
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for first few timers it's nice to have a helper.. .. after you do it enough it becomes a breeze, especially on a truck with a body lift
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
I cut the heads off some 3 in long bolts and slot the ends with a hacksaw so a screwdriver will work. Install those into the engine and then you can hang the trans on those and then slide the trans up to the engine and start the regular bolts, then remove your temporary studs.
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Originally Posted by johnsongrass1 View Post
I do the stud thing too. Works great. I first round the end with a bench grinder or lathe and give them a bullet shaped end and use nuts. I find them easier to work with then bolts.
I do something similar, but I use Chevrolet exhaust manifold studs installed PERMENENTLY on the engine. I also use the brass nuts and lock washers. Makes lining up, and removing the trans much easier. And now another secret; I also install these studs in the Powerglide transmission cases, when I build one for racing, where the extension housing bolts on. It's EASY to strip those 5 bolt holes in the trans case, and the studs/brass nuts stop that from happening with frequent rebuilding. Butch/junior stocker.
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:05 PM
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That's why we don't use power glides anymore. Frequent rebuilding!
Just teasing

Something else you can do, socket head cap screws are lighter in weight and stronger than the same size zinc coated grade 2 bolt and easier to work with in tight areas. Gun drilled studs and nuts for the most benefit in weight reduction
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:42 AM
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STARIN Just checking, how did you come out on the 200 4r install. I had my brother help me with my 200 4r install and we used a scissors tranny jack.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:02 AM
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Hi there, I got the transmission bolted up last weekend, I ended up getting exhaust manifold studs and threading those in just like you guys said, one on each side. then i used nuts on the studs to hold the trans in as i struggle to slide the transmission in. I also had to level the car and the trans jack i was using had a wing nut on each side of the plate the transmission sat on to angle the transmission up a tad. Once i got it lined up the transmission finally mated and i was able to bolt it in and pull the studs out one at a time. this past weekend i was adjusted the tv cable, i got that fairly dialed in except it downshifts at too low an rpm but i think its because of my rear end gearing.

thanks all for the help
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