You can get manuals at the parts store. Haynes and Chilton should still make that manual. It won't be on the shelf but they can order it.
Or, Amazon has a few million, and so does books4cars.com, at a somewhat increased price.
I'd like to chime in on the valve adjustment thing. Do yourself a favor. They are hydraulic lifters, which means they have a plunger in them suspended by oil pressure. Oil pressure fills the lifter body, and that pressure suspends the plunger. Valve adjustment on a hydraulic lifter is designed so that the plunger is neither at the top nor the bottom, instead suspended in the middle. In this way, there doesn't need to be any play in any of the valvetrain components to account for changing heats.
I say that because they are a set-and-forget kinda thing. If they start ticking as they age, one of two things is happening; 1) either the lifter is collapsing (not holding adequate pressure) or 2) a cam lobe is worn down which has increased the distance allowing play in the valvetrain components.
In both cases the problem won't be solved by adjustment. A collapsing lifter means that the lifter isn't holding enough oil pressure to suspend the pressure from the spring and it will continue to tap regardless of where you adjust it. If you try to adjust a lifter on a wiped cam lobe, it will just wipe the cam lobe faster and you'll be sending metal shavings through the engine and be back at square one; now with a tapping valve and more metal all through the engine.
There is a third option. Its possible that the rocker nut has backed off a couple turns and everything else is fine. In that case adjusting them will fix it, but that scenario is highly unlikely.
Not trying to dash your hopes, but just letting you know that the fix might have to be a new cam and lifters. You can't put a new lifter on an old lobe.