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Old 07-12-2008, 08:28 PM

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need IFS allignments specs

I have a MII IFS kit on my car with power steering.I had the alignment done and they could only get 1*-caster, said couldn't get + allignment as upper A arms would bind.I just took everything apart to change springs and regular spindles (had dropped).These arms still should move a mile before they bind.What specs should I be using,toe, caster, camber?? I get different specs when I look them up.Is there much difference noticeable between 1 and 3*+ caster ?
thanks, Cisco


Last edited by TheCiscoKid; 07-12-2008 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:00 PM
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Just looking at your last journal pic, the car has(or had) a wicked rake. That angle of rake eats up some of the caster adjustment. Plus,, even if that pic was with dropped spindles, it sure appears like the suspension is nearly bottomed out. That ain't good, plus with the suspension flattened out like that, it changes the camber a LOT, and then you can't get the camber correct without sacrificing correct caster.

Get the front back up ...and not just by stock spindles. I would have tried the dropped spindles with a taller spring ride height. I wonder that now you took out the dropped spindles, that you may not want to get the suspension back "up" to normal conditions...all because you want a low front end.

You said a spring swap; if that brings it back up, put it on the alignment rack again. You should notice much more adjustment if the suspension "ride height" is now at what the kit maker figured on.

Yes there is a big difference in 1 or 3 degrees caster. You will get much more road feel and better highway tracking at 3 with the P/S. I would bet most rod shops would go with 2 on that type of car.
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:56 AM
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It totally depends on how you're using the car. Zero caster on a cushy road-trip car is perfectly OK. Some of the early power steering cars they actually called for negative caster (angled forward). 8* caster on a race car is typical. For most of my street stuff with longer wheelbases I stick to 3 or 4 degrees caster. Depending on the camber curve of my street cars, I use anywhere from 0 to 1 degree camber.
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Old 07-13-2008, 05:20 PM
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Don't forget to check the bumpsteer.
Adding lots of caster to a front suspension system designed for much less usually increases the bump steer. More bumpsteer combined with wider tires and wheels of greater offset often makes for a "fun" driver.
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Old 07-13-2008, 05:53 PM
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Sitting at ride height the lower a-arms should be parallel with the ground. If they are pointed up(at the tire end) your springs are to short if they are pointed down(at the tire end) your springs are to long. If that is an issue fix it first. Stock or drop spindles won't change a-arm angle, and will have a minimal effect on caster angle. If you can't get enough caster lower the rear of the car a little. That said, MII with power steering.....

Caster + 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 degrees
Camber 0 to -1/2 degrees
Toe 0 to 1/16" in
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:29 AM

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need IFS allignments specs

My car was messed up in a shop,I'm re-doing everything.Suspension wasn't bottomed, A arms are horizontal.I mocked it up with 205/75/15 on the front and 225/75/15 on rear.Most of the drop now is because it has 195/60 on front now, anything else pretty much rubs,fenders are twisted also.I put a smaller tire on the back and it doesn't fill the top of the wheel opening,didn't look right,I could maybe get a 1'' block on the back and use a smaller tire on the rear.I wanted a bit of a rack on the car, not this much ,but didn't know how it would sit until springs were broken in.I like the front low,but unable to get the back low enough, so I'm raising the front to get a better looking rake.
How much caster makes bump steer???
Thanks for the specs, Cisco

Last edited by TheCiscoKid; 07-14-2008 at 08:34 AM. Reason: addition
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