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Old 08-18-2003, 09:57 PM
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Post need input on engine build-photo article stuffola

hey, we've (some of us) been griping about the lack of good info in the mags..... well, i'm ready to assemble my engine, and am wanting to do an article for the knowledge base on the 390.
I want to know what you people want to see?????
i can do anything but degree the cam, as i dont have a degree wheel, and don't really see the benefit of it as it is going to be a daily driver...... but if you guys want, i'll degree it.......
let's get some ideas going............
you want to see the entire blueprint process?
you pro guys, lets hear it....... and you not so pro's too.....

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Old 08-19-2003, 10:15 PM
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ok

so when i get this finished, i don't want ANY criticism, due to the fact no one had any input before hand.......
"why didn't you do this," or
"why didn't you do that" or
"hey you ******, you did this wrong"
jeez you guys, i bet if i posted some flaming crap, someone would have something to say.......
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:38 PM
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I'm game, I would, as an engine novice, like to see the whole blueprinting process. What crank are you going to use, forged or cast? Are you going to shave any off the block or heads? Did you have to hone the cylinders? Are you going to break it down enough for input on type of pistons, rods and whatnot? Have you already determined what ending horsepower and torque you want?
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Old 08-20-2003, 01:56 AM
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Thanks Dutchman!!!

the block is out of my 72 F250, it was a 360. way more than a 150k on it and it was running OK, just burning oil.......
block was bored .030. NOT decked or align bored. (it was in good shape)
i'm going with a cast 2U 390 crank, ground .020/.020 .
i bought some cast 390 rods, put arp's in them, and thanks to Bobcrman, got them resized properly.......finally.
ertel cast al pistons, 9.5:1
plain ole steel rings
edelbrock performer cam
edelbrock " intake
i found a machine shop in Fla that had a set of the same heads i had, all ready machined, 3 angle valve job, new springs and guides, milled .020 for less than i could get mine done semi-locally
edelbrock carb, 1405, 600cfm (i believe)
hi vol oil pump
clevite bearings
cloyes tru-roller timing set
nos pushrods
stock valve train
for now, stock points distributor, coil, ignition....
Have i forgotten any parts?
as it's going to be my parts getter, trailer hauler, i decided to keep it fairly stock, as in not too much compression, and with the mileage i got out of the first set of stock al pistons, i thought they'd be OK for another 150k. and they were $50 new.

i think im gonna just do it, and email it to some members to see if it meets their standards, and if not, fix it, till its right, and then unleash it on the world. now, which poor unfortunate persons shall i spring it upon?
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Old 08-20-2003, 02:46 AM
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Water pump?
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Old 08-20-2003, 02:54 AM
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i have a stocker, but i'm pondering the edelbrock........ $$$......
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Old 08-20-2003, 06:00 AM
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Hey crazy larry, I have a few thoughts.
When I first started building engines as a teen, the only reference that I had was a Chilton's. When a step was described without a picture, I would sometimes get confused because I didn't know what they were referring to. Alot of detailed pictures are essential for a newcomer. Also, sometimes an explanation of why you do something would be helpful. It helps to know the reason for a certain clearances check or some other step. This way a newcomer comes to understand the importance of all the necessary steps in building an engine. These suggestions are aimed toward newcomers mainly because the veterans have less need for such an article. Not that that the veterans can always learn something new every once in a while. I know I learn new things on a daily basis and I have built a truck load of engines in my time, from stock 4-bangers to race-ready monster mouses.
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Old 08-21-2003, 04:13 AM
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hey larry this is great to see.
it will give some help to the new players
when ever i build an engine total on just a fix up in chassis
i allways use a reco hamonic balancer those rubber dampeners cant be trusted after hot tanking or long years of oil leaks
it rotts the rubber the outer ring slips and then the timmings way out P.S a gasket kit can be helpful too it will keep the oil on the inside and some brass welsh plugs in all the nessarsary hole would be good to
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Old 08-22-2003, 01:34 AM
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I agree with drlindz, pics along the way would benefit allot of us. Horvath has done this with his truck updates. I rebuilt a marine engine for my 18 foot Chapperral, however, I started with a long block and just changed all the other parts over from the old engine. I am still researching what engine I want to put in my rod when I get back. I have a long list of great ideas and advice for almost every step to completion.
Dutch
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Old 08-22-2003, 03:25 PM
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pics....

haha, i took 47 pics last nite!!! and i have a huge boatload to do yet.....
i would love to do a web site like Alan, but that takes $$$ i think, I wouldn't want a free popup laden site, i'm gonna ask Jon what he thinks about it.

drlindz,i will go to great lengths to make sure i explain the pics well, as well as take plenty of pics.......

ian healy, have the gasket set, and a balancer. i asked the machine shop to install the cam bearings, well they did, and the h2o plugs too oh well, .... thanks.
I appreciate the input guys, keep it coming......
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Old 08-22-2003, 03:41 PM
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Some ISPs offer free web space with their internet service.You may have some web real estate out there and not know it.
I got a generous amount of webspace with my dsl service.There is a bandwidth limit on daily traffic, but not to restrictive.
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Old 08-22-2003, 04:01 PM
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interesting....

for what my dsl costs me, i should have a huge chunk of web all to my own.... i'll look into that... thanks again. Larry
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Old 08-22-2003, 04:08 PM
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Ive built a bunch of Chevy and Chrysler and other stuff but never a Ford (even a VW and Metropolitan!). I am about to build two 390s for my Mysterion project so am very interested in with you publish.
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:47 PM
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intake port match question.....

pic 1
pic 2

in port matching my intake ports.......
how far back into the actual port do I or can I go????
there is as much meat to remove on the intake too. but its Al, and that grinds easy.
as you can see, there is quite a bit of material to remove.
it has me wondering if it'll be beneficial to do?......
wth? wussy, port match them heads.
ok.
so how far into the port can't I go????

whats better, carbide burr or those abrasive rolls? will an abrasive roll remove the kind of material i'm looking at?
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:06 PM
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Hey Larry,

I would see if you can find a gasket that better matches the intake ports. I am no Ford expert, but I know the 390 and other y blocks had some large port heads availble which look like what your gaskets are for. It just looks like ALOT of material. Unsually a port match is just to smooth the transition.

As for the process, use a carbide burr to get it hogged out and rolls to finish. Plan on about 10 hours of your life being gone, and alot of cast iron boogers.

Have fun...

Chris
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