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Old 02-23-2006, 03:11 PM
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Need more Pep,

Sup Guys, I have a 76 C10 and im trying to get a little more pep out of it. I plan on using it to pull a car and boat trailer. It currently has a newly re-built 350 and its stock,Thm 350 with a shift kit. I want to leave the stock Q-jet because its new but i was thinking of going with a Torker II intake,Summit Cam -442"/.465" lift int/exh. Headers, 2 1/2" duel exhaust, Oil and tranny cooler for now. Later on id like to build a motor with more cubes but for now the 350 is all i have to work with.

I would appreciate any input ... Thanks

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Old 02-23-2006, 04:18 PM
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Q-jet is fine

Headers and 2.5" exhaust is a good idea.

I would use the edelbrock performer spread bore intake. Torquer II will lose torque, I don't know why they call it that.

Think about getting a cheap set of roller rockers.

Not sure about your cam since you only spec the lift. But you should stay between 205 and 210 degrees duration at 0.050" for pulling torque. Unless you have a 3.55 or 3.73 then use cam between 210 and 215 duration at 0.050".

You could also pull the heads and do some mild bowl work. I have seen gains of 20 hp by spending just a few minutes on each bowl. Once the heads are off and treated to some bowl smoothing then get a valve job. And maybe cut down the heads 0.010" for a small bump in compression. (+0.2 cr).

Stock 76 350 truck horsepower is 185 at the wheels. With the above modifications, you should be able to make a solid 250 at the wheels (300 crank hp)

A set of vortec heads or an aftermarket 64cc head will increase compression and flow, adding about another 20 or 30 hp even with a small cam.

FYI, it would be better to have a 350 with good heads than a 383 with the old 76 stock heads.
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Old 02-23-2006, 04:21 PM
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based on the fact that you want more cubes in the future (assuming you'll stick with a SBC) I would go with an RPM AIRGAP intake. What's the duration of the cam? That is of MAJOR concern. If you're looking for mainly towing and no track duty I would also go with a 2 1/4" dual exhaust. long tube headers naturally. That should really wake it up down low and depending on the cam may give you some more MPG as a nice bonus.
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Old 02-23-2006, 04:51 PM
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The reason i wanted to go with the Torker is because a co-worker has one brand new that i can buy for like $50 bucks and im on a budget. The cam is listed as 214*/224*Dur at .050". I picked that one because of the rpm range which is between 2 and 5 grand. It has 3.73 gears go im guessing the cam is a decent choice ... Didn't even consider roller rockers,, Summit sells a set for like $85 bucks.

What do you mean by bowl work? I didn't plan on pulling the heads because they have been re worked but if you could explain a little that might be a consideration ....

Last edited by 88Iroc; 02-23-2006 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Left out
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Old 02-23-2006, 06:36 PM
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Well, then buy the Torker, take some pictures, and sell it on E-bay! Make a little profit. I would not go with the Torker either, even catalogs specify it as a 2500-6500 rpm intake.
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Old 02-23-2006, 09:00 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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The torker isn't a bad intake on the lower RPM when used in a 383 or bigger, or if you have the airflow tuned to the gnat's arse. It would probably be soso under 2 grand on your setup but do fairly well at 2500 and above, even though you would have a somewhat small cam for it. But yea, roller rockers would be a good investment, and bowl and port work is nice, but its a lot of time and still a fair amount of money. If anything I would do the exhaust first, and then the rockers, then the cam, then intake, and finally the head work.
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Old 02-24-2006, 09:34 AM
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Bowl work can be really easy. Sure, you could spend hours on each bowl if you would like. But 90% of the benefit comes with in the first few minutes of smoothing.

Just disassemble the head (remove all the valves and springs), then get yourself an air die grinder or even a dremal if you don't have an air compressor. Then smooth out the transition between the valve seat and the head. You are just basically removing edges in the head directly under the valves. All the work can be done within 1 inch of the valve seat.

Run your finger in and out of the port to feel for any flow obstruction or any sharp transitions then when you find one smooth it out. Sounds simple only because it is. And on those old and rough Chevy heads, it makes big gains in flow and hp fairly easily.

Did you check out the site I posted before? They show a 20 hp increase with a few minutes of bowl work on those old style, non fast burn, non vortec, chevy heads.

The cam you want to use seems a little big for a low compression 350 in a truck. But the 3.73's will help. I know you are on a budget, but you really need a two plane intake. FYI, the performer goes for 114.88 and the torker 2 goes for 94.95 from summit racing (new).
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