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Old 08-19-2005, 09:45 PM
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Need to paint a very straight black car

I will be painting a black bc/cc in a few weeks. I need to make sure this car is straight as possible. I got it in 2k urethane primer right now. I was planning on blocking it down, and I got some Evercoat metal glaze. I was gonna glaze both doors and the hood as a minimum, but I would like to do the whole car, maybe. Then block it down and prime. Then block it down and apply basecoat.

1. I always block my primer down using 2 straight paint sticks and wet sanding. I seem to have pretty good results and this was recommended to me by a very experienced painting (50+ years I think) Will I be able to block it down real smooth and straight or should I be using an actual block?

2. Do I need a sealer under then black. The primer is Nason urethane grey.

3. I was gonna use the Nason bc and clear, but after looking into it, I think Im gonna get some clear and maybe color from Southernpolyurethanes. Will it be Ok to use their clear over the Nason basecoat?

4. Which one of the SPI clears do I need. I assume the 4:1 cheaper stuff is slightly less quality.

Any other tips for making it perfectly straight for the black bc/cc.


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Last edited by firechicken383; 08-19-2005 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:03 PM
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Well as I am sure you know, the straightness comes from blocking the (in your case) 2K assuming the bodywork is close.

I used to use paintsticks but have recently switched to durablocks. There is a difference. I reblocked some paintstick panels with a teardrop durablock and found a couple small issues.

I would guide coat your 2K. Couple things that are important for straigtness is blocking with a coarser sandpaper first. Its easy to think you are close and cut right to 400. The problem is 400 will smooth out a panel perfectly, but not level it.

Start off with something like 180-220 grit and dont even think about smooth. Just block it for level. Make long strokes with your block and dont do it in a straight line. What I mean is, have your block skewed as you make those strokes. Do it in an X pattern. Basically move back and down and then reverse to forward and down. Hope that made sense. Once you do this and your guide coat is looking good with no low or high spots, then switch to something like 400 and smooth. More than likely this will require another coat of 2K.

When you think you are there, wipe your panel down with something like wax and grease remover. Site down the panel for any "hooseys". The wetness will show a lot more.

I am just making the switch to 2K (put it off too long) but I guess you dont need to seal it. I probably will anyway as I still think its a good idea. I like to seal with epoxy, use 3M dry guide coat and then 600 block the sealer. If it looks good at this point, you are ready for BLACK paint

I am sure Barry can answer your questions about SPI. I will be trying SPI on my next project. Sounds look good stuff.


Rich
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:10 PM
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Yeah that makes sense, thats generally the way I block.

Another thing I wonder is the Metalglaze says it can be used to thin other fillers. I was thinking of using it to thin the 3m lightweight filler so I can glaze the whole car. That stuffs high at $30 for a small can.
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:30 PM
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Why not use a polyester prime instead of skimming the whole car if its already close? $60-80 a gallon. Lot cheaper and easier than Glaze.
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Old 08-20-2005, 02:08 AM
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Poly prime the whole car, it is crazy to try and glaze the whole thing and get it straight especially if your not doing this everyday.... Use a poly primer then block it out

BK
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Old 08-20-2005, 02:27 AM
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2k paint

It really needs another go as I painted another car so its got over spray on it.
http://www.geocities.com/keithholden...?1109456845592

I undercoated with a high fill primer then block back with a block about the size of half a sheet of wet and dry used wet. of couse that was after spraying a guide coat on.

I then used a 2k top coat jet black. No clear required and it comes out just as good as using a clear without the extra expence or work.
But its not a show car its my misses run around

Check the photos I did this in my garage. I sanded the top coat with 1500 wet and dry and buffed it. except the roof. Got lazy

heres 2 other cars i painted
http://www.geocities.com/keithholden...?1111925184889
this one hasnt been buffed.

And this one is my car that im putting a 350chev into.
Painted about 5yrs ago by me.
http://www.geocities.com/keithholden/HQholden.html
Im in New Zealand the first 2 cars are cortinas and my is a HQ Holden.
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Old 08-20-2005, 06:45 AM
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generally the harder and more ridgid the block and longer the more straight the car will come out. as for the clear, i think most of spi clears are the same in quality. the less expensive stuff is the universal clear. its a 1:1 mix and is excellent. everything that goes out of my shop uses the universal.
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:11 AM
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i made my own blocks from 2x3 soft pine. it's cut down to fit the board paper with the ends folded over and stapled. i routered a hole in it to make it easier to hold and sanded all the edges smooth and rounded off . i have one that is 2 sheets long. i use it to get body work straight before priming. works great on long panels . hope this helps.
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:31 AM
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Use hard blocks and boards during the shaping stage then you can switch over to a flexible block for the final sanding. Remember what you're actually doing in the begining stages is basically scupting and you just can't do this with a wet noodle. My initial strokes are always with the length of the panel to establish a straight plane, this leaves ridges which will disappear when you change to an x pattern. Guidecoat, guidecoat, and reguidecoat. The guidecoat shows your progress and reveals every little flaw. Make absolutely sure your blocks and boards are straight or you'll be fighting ripples till the end. Use the longest board possible. Paintsticks IMO are for small areas only. Bob
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Old 08-21-2005, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Why not use a polyester prime instead of skimming the whole car if its already close?
Well, Im just gonna do the hood and two doors, as the doors on these cars are notorious for being wavy. I honestly don't think that any primer will have enough build unless I re-did the prime and block process 4 or 5 times. The rest of the car however is pretty straight. Metal glaze sands very easily, It won't be more work than it's worth to get it straight IMO (if I'm wrong tell me).
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Old 08-21-2005, 04:20 PM
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BTW, is polyester primer or urethane primer better as a high-build primer? Does one sand easier than the other.?
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Old 08-21-2005, 05:50 PM
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Polyester Primer is a HIGH build primer.

What they are trying to steer you away from is skimming the whole car which you cant do evenly. Not to mention its a lot of work.

Think of the polyester primer as a way so spray a skim coat of filler on.
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Old 08-21-2005, 06:49 PM
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Waves ripples

The door of my holden had a LARGE cress init i bashed it out as best I could then put body filler in it.

I Then used a smooth 4by 2 or as americans say 2by4 about 550mm long
thats about 1.5feet to u guys.

I then used a roll of sand paper and folded it at the end of the 4by2 and used drawing pins to hold it.

It worked great no ripples no waves worked great.
I used 80 grit paper on inital sanding.
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:42 PM
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Firechicken spraying polyester primer is like spreading glaze over an entire area.. Even though you say "its just the hood and doors", I dont think you have any idea how much work that is in itself.... About blocking 4 or 5 times... once you get that hood covered in uneven wavy glaze, as soon as you hit metal here and there you are now looking at high spots... time to tap back down and cover area again.. begin sanding and over and over you will do this until it is perfect or it will still be wavy......

Use a polyester primer, once you block it down straight follow with a 2k... Guide coat guide coat guide coat.... This will make all the difference.....I think there is allot more sanding than you realize.... Painting cars is not about the hour you spend in the booth... it is about the 100 hours you spend prepping ( mostly sanding)....If you dont like to sand.... you wont like painting cars

BK
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Old 08-22-2005, 01:13 PM
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BondoKing is right on...
Glad to have you back!!
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