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Old 10-30-2008, 09:20 PM
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need pointers on 383 build

this is what Ive got...

-4 bolt main 383 - planning on valley girdles if it sounds like a good idea
-forged pistons/rods, cast crank
-8 brodix heads, Ti valves/retainers/locks.
-11:1 cr, closer to 10.5:1 dcr
-475# open/175# closed springs, don't want to go too high for the solid lifters but im not sure if theyll be enough
-hv1000 brodix intake
-750 mighty demon
-1.6 full roller rockers
-planning on a 'radical' solid lifter cam (don't know much about specs, ill call all the manufacturers for recommendations then buy the average like i have before)
-3in fender-well headers
-93 octane...?

im not super worried about target rpm/hp/tq stuff too much, ill build the tranny according to what the engine dynos, but i would like to see 7000 rpm with a little power if it'll hold up

might be going in an s-10 if i can afford to build it after the engine is done
-manual th350, ill learn about torque converters when i get there
-something to get traction
-loud, fast, spinning tires, occasional 1/4 mile.

im looking to be overbuilt for street use but it'll be more of a toy/weekend speeding ticket machine

any recommendations or '*** this is better dont do that dumb *** go buy this' would greatly be appreciated

dont hold back

OH!!! AND the max over bore is 60 over... is this too much for a 60 over block?

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Old 10-30-2008, 09:52 PM
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Using Ti valves and skimping on a cast crank. And if your going .060 over that will be a 388.

If your looking for a good block you may want check into the Dart SHP http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12112
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:39 PM
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What CNC said........why go to all that expense and use a cast crank?
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Old 10-31-2008, 03:05 AM
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10.5 DCR on 93 octane? I don't think so. And with 11.0 SCR, you'd have to close the intake valve at 15 degrees ABDC @ 0.050" tappet lift to achieve 10.5 DCR. The smallest Crane Cam I can find closes the intake at 16 degrees. Please read the description in the upper right......
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...02&lvl=2&prt=5
It is fun to play "what-if", but you may want to do some more reading before putting your revised combination together.

One other thing, be sure to specify roller lifters on your revision. Flat tappets wouldn't make it through break-in with those springs. And shop around for some unobtanium pushrods.

Last edited by techinspector1; 10-31-2008 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:17 AM
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i got an AMAZING deal on the heads ($700!!!)and they already had the Ti valves, and the 383 short block is from my previous set up. i rechecked the pistons ive already got and theyll put me at 11.5:1 so im going to have to swap them out for sure. ill get them to run me at 10:1 so things arent as complicated.


soooo im thinking a new block and forged crank will be worth the wait.

no sense in building an engine that doesnt meet my goals.

so i guess im done for now till i can get the block/crank.
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Old 10-31-2008, 02:21 PM
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well i think ill stick with the short block ive got and rebuild that after im done with the top end

some more q's

if i go with solid rollers i can get stronger springs right?
vertical or horizontal stabilizers for the lifters? are there any pros n cons?

are valve stud girdles worth the money for a 7000max rpm engine?
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