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Old 10-27-2010, 10:54 AM
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need rear suspension help for my hotrod

My hotrod body is 48" wide and channeled 6" over the T bucket type frame.. and I'v been trying to figure out the rear suspension for months.. originally, I wanted to go with a 4 bar. but getting a 4 bar into the frame space I have to work with won't work.. bars would need to be way too short... I could run a long 4 bar setup under the car possibly.

originally I thought 32" heims wouldn't clear the 6" channel. but, if I used a drop mount on the frame, and a drop bracket on the rear axle. then they would clear I think.. any insight? I have some basic 200# coil overs, but might go for a med arch model A spring from Speedway

I have to get this car to be at least rollable soon.. I just want somthing that will work without a lot of hassle

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Old 10-27-2010, 11:23 AM
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Matt,
If you go with a traditional wishbone or modified truck arm and place the front pivot directly under the front U-joint using a jonny joint and then all you need is a panhard bar and then you can use the coil overs that you have on hand..On mine I have a 4 bar and the upper links are only 10 inches long..

Just an idea
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Old 10-27-2010, 06:52 PM
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with the 4 bar. the bars would need to be 8"....

are you saying the wishbones would be the full triangle, like the early Fords used stock on the front. or split wishbones?.. Ither way I'd like to run a panhard, because it's cheap insurance that the axle will stay put
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Old 10-27-2010, 06:58 PM
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Check out Hotrods To Hell for the truck arm suggestion, to get ideas of how it works. It is a modified version of what Nascar uses, which was originally the 60's Chevy truck suspension. Arm pivots are near the trans tailshaft, and they use a panhard for locating. www.hotrodstohell.net
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:16 PM
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I'm familliar with the truck arm, as my dad has a '72 C10. I'm thinking I could make my own arms, and build the coil over mount right on the arm, so instead of the coil overs hanging out back, there right where Chevy put the springs on the pickups
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:51 PM
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What Eric suggested is exactly what I had in mind..

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Old 10-27-2010, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
I'm familliar with the truck arm, as my dad has a '72 C10. I'm thinking I could make my own arms, and build the coil over mount right on the arm, so instead of the coil overs hanging out back, there right where Chevy put the springs on the pickups
Can't see why that wouldn't work, seems like a nice idea. I'm going to make my own arms on a project I have also.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:04 PM
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could I make them out of 1"x 1/8" square tubing? and make a zig zag? so that I could utilize the factory leaf spring pads to mount them with U bolts? add a 2.5" wide plate top and bottom of the tubing if need be..

what I mean by zig zag. is come off the rear end housing. zig under the frame and the coil over would attach somewhere there, and zag to straighten out and get mounted to the jonny joint
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:00 PM
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also forgot to mention, the rear is an S10 ZR2 8.5" 10 bolt. the leaf spring pads are 39" apart I think. whatever is stock for an S10.. I really can't remember how wide the rear frame is, but 27" sounds right
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
could I make them out of 1"x 1/8" square tubing? and make a zig zag? so that I could utilize the factory leaf spring pads to mount them with U bolts? add a 2.5" wide plate top and bottom of the tubing if need be..

what I mean by zig zag. is come off the rear end housing. zig under the frame and the coil over would attach somewhere there, and zag to straighten out and get mounted to the jonny joint
1" square x 1/8" wall is way too weak, minimum would be 2" square x 1/8" wall or 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" rectangular x 1/8' wall or 1-3/4" round x .134" wall like roll bar tubing. Look at what size tube the aftermarket uses for rear lower control arms on factory 4-link applications like Chevelle or Fox Mustangs, and that is only 2 out of 4 links.

You could make a zig-zag if you want, or build the amount you need to drop into the brackets on the housing. If you zig in the tubing, make sure to overplate the joint for strength, don't just miter cut it and buttweld.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:29 PM
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I would probably go with the 1 1/2 x 2.5" then, and yes, everything would be fish plated and gusseted.. I only thought about the 1" x 1/8" square because I have about 16' of the stuff, that I won't be needing for anything else, except maby a couple feet for motor mounts, or extra frame bracing
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:05 PM
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If it was me I would forget about trying to use the factory spring pads(too far apart) and bring the mounting location on the housing inside the frame rails, making mounting plates similar to the type used with race ladder bars, a pair of brackets that either encircle the tube or at least half moon around it, with a drop down to your arm tube anchor point. Similar to the type of mounts used for flat bottom link bar wheelie bars like Competition Engineering sells
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:27 PM
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I can't go inside the frame rails. the frame is too narrow for that, and the S10 tubes step up in size right in there.. but I could run them right along the frame with new mounts.. was only considering the spring pads, because they are there... I havn't taken a tape measure to anything in a long time.. actually the project has sat dormant for a while.. I'm 100% sure that the truck arm suspension will work. I have been building it in my head for about a day now... I built it all, so even tho I don't remember many of the measurements. I can visualize just about everything
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