[64 elky]

See and I thought I had a really good idea with some decent equipment but the car seems to struggle to get below 12.40's. However I'm coming to the realization that the car (64 elcamino full body) is kinda heavy as its on a wagon chassis. Some of it maybe and probably more so the driver as I'm only out there about once every other couple months and when I'm there they having a "street legal" night and the track really isn't prepped good cause for the most part the cars running are low HP imports and plain street cars. I really appreciate all of the feed back I got from everybody cause you people don't own me anything but yet you offer some advice in friendly chat and I really enjoy that.

But as for my little hotrod..... I'm gonna keep chasing the carrot and have fun doing it.

[64 elky]

I have no sway bar in the front with moroso front coils and 90/10 shocks. The rear I have stock 4link with the "QA1" kit where you cut out the old coil perch and install a tubular cross member for the upper coil over mounts. And then weld on the adjustable lower perch with the 8 way adjustable set to the 70/30 setting I believe. I do however have a real strong hunch my piñon angle is off as the car is lowered but I unfortunate don't have the cash as of right now to buy the adjustable tubular upper and lower control arm set up for the 4 link.

[vinniekq2]

pinion angle,wheel alignment,spring heights,adjustable rear link,etc all add up,slowly,usuallt 1/2 a tenth at a time.Its all permanent fixes.12.4 is respectable for any street car. tuning the chasis is slow,keep notes incase the car slows down.
Have you ever run the car on a chasis dyno?
helps to figure shift points,and of course tweeking power

[ssimpala]

Sounds like you know what you're doing. Sorry about some of my advice about air bags, etc, I didn't realize you had it together as well as you do...hard to tell sometimes on a forum. Anyway, keep at it and good luck, Bill.

[64 elky]

So what do you guys think about 1.6 rockers on a small block? So I understand that 1.5 is stock and all your really doing by using 1.6's is increasing lift without changing the duration. From what I can tell if my heads can use the flow (obviously not stock 200+runners) then it may help the heads increase flow. However I have to watch for coil bind and clearence issues but I have flat top pistons with a 64cc dome so I should be alright. And after doing the math my 545 lift will jump up to a 585ish lift.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 64 elky

So what do you guys think about 1.6 rockers on a small block? So I understand that 1.5 is stock and all your really doing by using 1.6's is increasing lift without changing the duration. From what I can tell if my heads can use the flow (obviously not stock 200+runners) then it may help the heads increase flow. However I have to watch for coil bind and clearence issues but I have flat top pistons with a 64cc dome so I should be alright. And after doing the math my 545 lift will jump up to a 585ish lift.

Clearances need to be checked and verified- including coil bind, seal to retainer, rocker to retainer, etc. You need to know the spring pressure is sufficient. I'd also recheck the geometry as well. More here.

Seat to seat duration remains unchanged. But the duration at all points past closed will increase slightly along w/the added lift. This is because the increase in ratio gets the valve open to any given point quicker. It isn't a great amount (2-4 degrees maybe, it varies w/the cam), but it's there just the same.

As for how much (if any) this will increase the output, obviously this depends on whether the combo you have "wants" more lift or not- and that's the $64K question. Things like the intake to exhaust ratios become involved, especially when you change rocker ratios on just the intake or exhaust sides. This is something that is sometimes done w/stock heads- especially when using stock exhaust manifolding. But even using aftermarket heads, if your set up calls for it there could be gains there.

Best bet is to try a set and see.

[64 elky]

It has seemed to wake the motor up a little bit more. Hard to tell if it increased my 60 foot time because I haven't seen a time slip yet. How ever never the changed I have made in the car are making a difference over all the car appears to be putting down more power, let alone being WAY more responsive

[64 elky]

Next I'm gonna set up my 4 link. So what would be the correct way to set it up for a 3000lb vehicle? Should I set my piñon angle at 6 positive or negative? Should I set my coil overs as soft as possible with out creating wheel hop on the launch, so the car will squat and throw the vehicle weight down in the tires but yet set the rebound soft as well so the rear will stay down so the tires don't unload and spin? That's kinda what I'm thinking? I need to be able to adjust the rear in the future but I don't have adjustable control arm yet.

[ssimpala]

Dick Miller Racing sells all the stuff you need to make your suspension launch. He even wrote a really, really good book and sells it online for about 25 bucks....and is a good guy besides. Hope this helps, Bill.

[64 elky]

Hey thank you very much bill. I just ordered the book.

[64 elky]

Yeah bill thanks for the advice on ordering that book. It really has some good advice about just about everything in there......... Well there's some street legal races next weekend on the 22nd. So I see then how the tuning will affect the car. I really appreciate all the advice I got from everybody it's really helped..... I'm making notes of everything I'm doing to it so as I change something I can see on paper what it does. Ive also went to a colder plug and even gone as far to index the colder plugs. Don't think it'll make much difference as I'm only running about 450hp. But maybe in the high rpm the motor will run a click better. I figure I spent so much time and money on ignition and wires I might as well index the plugs too couldn't hurt the motor any..... Next I'm on to tune the suspension.