The gauges will work correctly matched to their original senders, that much you can count on. Well, as long as they're in working order.
As for the voltage regulator (VR), what I'm seeing (you got me curious so I did some digging
) is the VR drops the current to 5VDC to the gauges. Some are made to give 12 VDC for a brief time then switch to 5 V. This is supposedly to get the gauges to move quicker towards the correct reading.
I found a thread/post that gives an outline of how to build a voltage regulator
for <$10 from readily available Radio Shack parts.
Another page w/photos and a clipped-off-at-the-top wiring diagram
(also shown below): 1972 Ford F250 4x2 - Dash Cluster 5volt regulator
If that's not happening, you can get a VR for an earlier model Ford car or truck, pre-printed circuit era. These VR's have regular terminals to attach wires to. Might want to look one up from a junkyard, though. The VR (Motorcraft p/n GR508) cost $85- in 2008!
If you can solder, there's also a chance the VR you have can be reattached by soldering wires to the connection points it used for the printed board. This is what I would do, personally.