Originally Posted by cobalt327
The gauges will work correctly matched to their original senders, that much you can count on. Well, as long as they're in working order.
As for the voltage regulator (VR), what I'm seeing (you got me curious so I did some digging
) is the VR drops the current to 5VDC to the gauges. Some are made to give 12 VDC for a brief time then switch to 5 V. This is supposedly to get the gauges to move quicker towards the correct reading.
I found a thread/post that gives an outline of how to build a voltage regulator
for <$10 from readily available Radio Shack parts.
Another page w/photos and a clipped-off-at-the-top wiring diagram
(also shown below): 1972 Ford F250 4x2 - Dash Cluster 5volt regulator
If that's not happening, you can get a VR for an earlier model Ford car or truck, pre-printed circuit era. These VR's have regular terminals to attach wires to. Might want to look one up from a junkyard, though. The VR (Motorcraft p/n GR508) cost $85- in 2008!
If you can solder, there's also a chance the VR you have can be reattached by soldering wires to the connection points it used for the printed board. This is what I would do, personally.
This is what I plan to do as well, have you seen though which gauges need to be in this loop, there are 4 gauges, oil, temp, alt, and fuel, I have read somewhere that only 3 need to have this CVR added to the equation but it did not say which three.
I also still do not know on what side this CVR needs to be on, is it the sensor side or the hot side ( or batter ) Thanks for the digging, it really takes someone that is electrically intuitive to be able to sift thru all of the non pertaining matter.
I guess the CVR itself needs to be grounded??? I am just guessing trying to come up with a plan for mounting it, maybe it needs no ground since it is enclosed in that small aluminum case and mounts to a plastic panel originally. Just guessing