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Old 04-28-2007, 06:17 AM
F&J F&J is offline
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Need some advice on an older Miller TIG...

I have only used a Miller MIG for welding, a 35S.

I just picked up an almost free Miller 330 BP TIG 5-300 amp. This is a huge machine at 850 pounds.

It did not have the remote control and has a switch to operate without one. It also needs a bottle & regulator.

All I have tested so far is to see if it can start an arc...which it does.

I see on the websearches that a remote control is tough to find for it as most have many terminals, where this old one has 2 or 3.

Should I keep trying to find a remote before investing in a bottle & reg, or is there a way to at least try it using the bottle & reg from my Mig??

How hard is it to weld without the remote?? I have never used a TIG before, at all. Thanks

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Old 04-28-2007, 08:20 AM
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For my first TIG I bought a 1965 Airco 250 that had no remote. That Airco was the same machine as Miller made in those days. I'd bet that miller made it.

For my machine, I wired up an extension cord with a pushbutton on and off switch in a box at the end. Without the switch the gas solenoid would stay open and gas would flow even when I wasn't welding. The connector on the machine was a standard female duplex receptacle. IIRC there is only a variable resistor in the pedal, you just need to find the right resistance value to control the amperage.

I know that for some reason, without the variable control, I still had to scratch start the weld, but I cant remember why.

During welding, it was somewhat of a pain to use without the remote control, you had to set your current and hope you didn't start to burn through anywhere.

I eventually found a used pedal at a shop that repaired welders, that made all the difference in the world.

You can try the regulator from your mig, but you need straight argon gas.

Is the machine an AC-DC or just DC?
Is the high frequency unit attached to it? or is it integral with the machine?

I couldn't find any pics or description of that model.


Those old millers will last for a million years, usually all you need to do is adjust the contacts inside, sometimes they need replacing.

I have a friend with an old miller, I'm not sure if it is the same machine or not as what you have. If it is the same machine, I can check and see what the pedal looks like. He may even have an owners manual for it. If he does, I'll see about getting a copy of it.

Can you put up a picture of your welder?
My friends welder looks like this one..


Later, mikey
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Last edited by powerrodsmike; 04-28-2007 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:39 AM
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I found an ebay listing for a pedal.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Miller-Wire-Tig-...QQcmdZViewItem

Mikey
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:46 AM
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Miller 330 BP

I have had one of these welders for 15 years, bought it used. When I set up the TIG I took a picture of the machine to the local welding supply and had the "Old Guy" tell me what I needed.

Any tig remote switch will work with an adaptor plug. You can get a torch that has the control on the handle or a modern (smaller) version of the monster foor pedal I have.

If you don't have the remote control you will have to "scratch start" the arc which works, but contaminates the tungston. You also will not be able to control the heat (amperage) while you weld. If you are welding 1/4" or bigger steel it will be OK. If you are working 18 ga you need to control the heat while you weld.

Also, you have a choice of an air cooled torch or a water cooled torch. The difference being the amount of current the torch can handle. Air cooled is way simpler, but only good for up to 125 (or so) amps. The water cooler will cost about $600 or you can simply hook the welder to a water line and let the water run down the drain.

If you lift the front cover you'll see a knife switch on the upper left. On mine, it says Mettalic (which means stick) and TIG. Be sure this is set correctly for what you are doing.

These are great, reliable welders - the Cadillac of their day. Most of the parts are generic off the shelf stuff, I won't worry about getting everything to work.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:01 AM
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Miller has some good forums and other materials that can help with the learning curve..Just go to Miller website..

Sam
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:29 PM
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Hi & thanks for all the quick replies.

Mine looks the same as that picture.... Mine is a 330A/BP.

I DO have a reprinted manual & parts listing here, but no info on the foot control or what part number, nor how to install. It covers the main part, not the accessories!

It is AC/DC, that swing lever has 3 settings for "reverse polarity-AC-Straight polarity"

Then that upper wire plug that is yellow, is marked: REMOTE AMP CONTROL with a 3 terminal Twist lock plug.

The lower wire plug on the same side is a 2 terminal Twist lock, that says: CONTACTOR CONTROL.

Both of those plugs have a toggle switch to allow use without something plugged in. Marked "standard" or "remote"

On the right side, a 4 position switch for : Hi Frequecy-Start-Off-Continous.

So the foot control goes to the "remote amp control" connection?? or the other marked "contactor control"....or do I need another thing besides the foot control?

And the gas, is it only argon or argon mix for steel too?...So Co2 won't let me test weld?

Yes, I'll ask that ebayer if the terminals are correct. I found one on completed auctions a week ago that went for $138 listed to fit the 330A/BP.

I just would be trying some 16 gauge steel or thinner, plus maybe try aluminum at some point if I can get good with steel first. I've always wanted to try one.

I'll also check the miller site.....Thanks
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Old 04-28-2007, 01:15 PM
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The contactor control as well as the remote control plug both go to the pedal. The pic in that ebay auction has 2 cords, with 2 plugs on it.

I just today had to take apart my pedal on my 300 amp hobart because a screw fell out inside and the pedal wouldnt shut the contactor... (flashburn, arcs starting on the bench...).

Inside there are 6 wires, 3 go to a 25K pot rated at 2 watts, and 2 wires go to a micro switch rated at 125 volts and 15 amps. the last wire goes to ground.

there are a couple of gears and levers and what nots that control the pot. It makes almost a complete turn with the travel of the pedal, I don't know how miller sets theirs up.

The micro switch is the contactor control, that is the on and off, while the pot is the amp control.

Buy the ebay pedal if you can, it'll save you alot of hassle.
I paid 75.00 dollars for the one I bought, I thought it was worth every penny.

Later, mikey
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Old 04-29-2007, 04:50 PM
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You will need argon even to weld mild steel. CO2 and 75/25 won't work. It won't hurt to try and if either does, I'd like to know. You'll also need TIG rod not gas welding rod.

Two plugs for the foot pedal - one activates the solenoids for the gas and the coolant the other controls the amperage. It may be obvious, but without activating the solenoid for the gas you won't have any gas flow or if you bypass the solenoid, the gas will be on all the time - expensive.

I would skip the EBAY foot control. Instead, buy TIG torch with a thumb control in the torch. The plugs are available at electrical supply stores (Home Depot might even have them). Weldcraft is one company that makes them. The foot pedal works well when you are sitting comfortably at a bench, but is very difficult to use otherwise.

This welder is an excellent stick welder. Lots of amps; very smooth. Try the high freq switch on "start". It makes striking an arc very easy. (If the high freq doesn't work, file and set the points -like a pre HEI distributor- that usually fixes it.)

Good luck
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Old 04-29-2007, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ3100
You will need argon even to weld mild steel. CO2 and 75/25 won't work. It won't hurt to try and if either does, I'd like to know

75/25 doesn't work. I tried it one weekend when I ran out of argon.

Mikey
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