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Old 04-30-2009, 07:00 PM
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Need some help on 350 chevy 1 piece seal block

Hi guys i need a little help on a chevy 350 1 piece rear main seal block. I bought the block brand new from summit and just got it back from my machine shop. I have the cam thrust plate to go on the front to keep the cam from walking forward but I don't know what type or size of bolts to use for it. The plate is the second version used in the 1990's and up block. Also i need the rear main seal housing that goes on the block but i dont know what its called. The block came with all the mains including the oil rear man cap and front cap. Also I can't find anything on summit or jegs. Hope someone can help me. Thanks
Eric

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Old 04-30-2009, 07:22 PM
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new block......

HI,pick up the phone and call Summit customer service,they will have the answers.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
Hi guys i need a little help on a chevy 350 1 piece rear main seal block. I bought the block brand new from summit and just got it back from my machine shop. I have the cam thrust plate to go on the front to keep the cam from walking forward but I don't know what type or size of bolts to use for it. The plate is the second version used in the 1990's and up block. Also i need the rear main seal housing that goes on the block but i dont know what its called. The block came with all the mains including the oil rear man cap and front cap. Also I can't find anything on summit or jegs. Hope someone can help me. Thanks
Eric
These need a pan or truss style bolt head which would have a socket for a Allen or Torx drive. The issue is clearing the back side of the cam gear. Use at least a grade 5, unplated. Your local GM dealer probably stocks exactly what you need.

Bogie
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:19 PM
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Thanks bogie i will try to get to a dealar. i just wondered if they where just plain old type of bolts cause i can pick up some grade 8 fastners at my local ace hardware store.
Thanks
Eric
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:27 PM
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For the rear main seal housing check Ebay. I've seen them cheap.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:29 PM
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Hey thanks man i was able to find one for 16 bucks shipped I appreciate your help.
Eric
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
Hey thanks man i was able to find one for 16 bucks shipped I appreciate your help.
Eric
Does it come w/the correct hardware?

There's one stud that has a rather larger OD than the threaded end that goes into the block and is used to partially locate the assembly correctly.

The other bolts have hex heads and one is rather long for its OD (might be hard to find from elsewhere) so you might want to get the whole set from the dealer when you cop your cam retainer h-ware.

The factory procedure calls for jumping through hoops to get the rear main seal in alignment w/the crank. In pratice, I've not found it to be necessary if you are careful, but thought I'd mention it.

Last edited by cobalt327; 05-03-2009 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:45 PM
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Hello from looking at the picture it comes with two bolts at the sides and no others. So i have no clue what bolts are used to bolt it into place.
Eric
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:22 PM
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Might want to check what comes w/it, then when you go to the Chevy/GM dealer you can look at his screen and see what else is needed. This will be the best bet, IMHO.

If you think it'll help, I can put the h-ware together for a photo and give you the lengths and thread pitch, Torx sizes, etc.

The thing is, you will prob. not have any luck at a hardware store; the size/lengths are not "standard" pieces.

You might check to see if ARP has a set made for the rear main seal cover assy'.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:38 PM
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Hey cobalt 327 if you could do that for me I would appreciate it so much. I will be looking for your post. Thanks a million
Eric
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:40 PM
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Rear Seal Cover Hardware

The 2 short bolts are 1/4-20 thread; 3/8" hex head; 7/8" long.

The stud is 1/4-20 thread;7/16" hex bolt; 2-3/32" long (w/o torx head- additional 3/16").
Threaded portion into block is 3/8" long; thread on opposite end (w/nut) is 9/16" long (w/o torx head).
OD of unthreaded portion is 17/64".
Torx socket size on stud is a loose 6, IIRC.
Located on driver side.

Last long bolt is same thread; 3/8" hex head; 1-3/4" long. Threads are 1-5/32" long; OD of unthreaded portion is 1/4".
Located on passenger side.

The two oil pan studs are 5/16-18; 1-5/16 long as measured above. Torx socket #7.

Bolt length is from under the head to the end, not counting the hex head.
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Old 05-02-2009, 07:34 PM
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Cobalt 327 thank you so much I apprecite guys like you on here that are really nice and helpful to people like me that are just beginning. You have a nice weekend.
Eric
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:03 PM
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ok hope i got this right here goes
2 short bolts are1/4 inch 20 thread 7/8 long counting length from under the head.
two longer bolts are 1/4 inch 20 thread count 7/16 hex head 2 inches 3/32 long. I take it that is hex type bolt and not torx correct?

and the two outer oil pan bolts are
5/16 18 thread count 1 inch 5/16 long. this set of bolts are torx bit head and not hex correct? Sorry to sound so dumb but appreciate your help. Now I can get some new bolts at my local hardware store.
Eric
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Old 05-03-2009, 12:39 AM
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All the fasteners are hex except for the male torx "heads" on the studs, used to drive them before the nut is used.

The two outer pan fasteners are studs, w/male torx heads for driving, they require nuts to secure the pan.

The torx heads for driving in the studs are not necessary- if the female threads are clean, the studs can be turned in by hand and will be fine. The stud itself may, however, come out of the part instead of the nut unthreading if done this way.

A dab of permatex can be used to secure the studs if you feel this is a problem, or the stud double-nutted to tighten. This is all really unnecessary, IMHO.

There's no reason AFAIK that you couldn't just use all bolts and forget about studs. The studs do make assembly a little easier- especially in an assembly line setting, but aren't absolutely necessary.

The one stud (driver side, long) does have a larger OD on its unthreaded portion.

EDIT- There are no button head fasteners related to the seal housing. I've corrected that error in my other post. Sorry if this caused any confusion.

Last edited by cobalt327; 05-03-2009 at 12:46 AM.
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