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Old 02-08-2012, 08:50 PM
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Need some help figuring out what cam i got

i just bought a 350 block, supposedly a 480 lift eldebrock cam, a eldebrock performer intake, crane cam lifters, timing chain, rods, stock crank, and 30 over sealed power pistons for $300. i would like to know how i can find out what cam this really is and if what i just bought is a half decent deal.

thanks for the help
branden
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:15 PM
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Is it on a stand?

If you need to know all about the cam look for a stamped number on it, U may need to pull the cam gear to see the mark of the beast, better yet U may need the cam in hand to read the cast mark numbers on the shank.

Beg plead and borrow for the cam card.

You could always dial gage the push rod and X by 1.5 to see if U have .488 that would be a start for your search of BS
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:22 PM
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the cam is out, i got numbers off the end but have no idea what they mean. the most meaningful number i see on the back reads 11-51-00. all of the machine work still needs done to the block
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:31 PM
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Thats not a camshaft part or grind number.
What other numbers. ? get a light and a flat metal file to clearfy the stamped numbers.

Or measure the cam lobe lift ( major lobe diameter - minor lobe diameter.)
using a dial caliper

If this flat tappet cam is at all Used just scrap it anyways.
Or give it to someone you don't like.
New flat tappet cams are cheap That edelbrock cam is generic
You can by a new one with new lifters for $80-100 ( Summitracing branded)

The Edelbrock "Torker" cam is 232-234-.488-.488" 108 LSA
The edelbrock Performer RPM cam is 234-244 .488-.510 112 LSA
Neither are anything special. You can get a replacement for cheap.
The basic power rpm range is about the same for either cam.

The other "performer cam" is mild 204-214 .420 .442 112

Used cams have a less than 50-50 change of running when reused swapped into a new block even with new lifters.
Used SBC cams are a waste of time and money.
None of these are worth reusing.

Get a new cam and new lifters.
Get a cam that actually matches your car/truck and purpose instead of trying to make the cam you got handed to you, do a job its won't do well.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-09-2012 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:09 PM
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CB - I am sorry to say, but I don't think you got a good deal.

Aftermarket parts, new in the box with receipts are worth about 50-60% of new price. Used, they are practically worthless (just not worth your time and money to build an engine with used parts). There are exceptions, if you know the source and have a lot of trust - maybe?

The block could have some value, but we need casting numbers, date codes, and stamping codes to begin to figure that out. Same for the crank, which unless it is forged, not worth a lot. Did you get heads with that? If so, we need the casting/codes for it as well.

For an example, I sold a complete (carb to pan with headers), running 305 with a working turbo 350 trans for $300, and I did the pull.
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Old 02-10-2012, 07:36 AM
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Yea, I kinda figured, but I'm buildin this thing on a tight budget. I'm getting the block done Saturday and I'll take the crank and cam up to have them checked out too.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:42 AM
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The 11-51-00 could be the Crane Cams date code: 11 for small-block Chevrolet; 51 for production during the 51st week of the year; 00 for the year 2000. There should be a grind number or part number on the front of the camshaft that can be used to find the specifications. Regards, Chase
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by countryboy1294
i just bought a 350 block, supposedly a 480 lift eldebrock cam, a eldebrock performer intake, crane cam lifters, timing chain, rods, stock crank, and 30 over sealed power pistons for $300. i would like to know how i can find out what cam this really is and if what i just bought is a half decent deal.
thanks for the help
branden
Strongly suggest that you don't have anyone begin cuttin' on the block until you know where you are and what you have. Let's begin with the block. At the rear of the block, where the bell housing bolts up, there is a casting number. Post that number here. Also, if the block has never been cut, there will be a stamped number and letters on the passenger side deck, right at the front of the block. Post that number here. Also, post the number off the crank. Measure the rods to find out what length they are. If you don't have measuring tools, have your machinist measure them. They could be 5.565" or 5.700" or 5.850" or 6" or whatever. Measure the distance from the centerline of the wrist pin to the crown of the piston. This is the piston compression height and you need to know what it is. Are the pistons hung on the rods already?

I know you're chompin' at the bit to do something with these parts, but have patience and the lads on this forum will help you make some useable power with the parts you have.
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:12 PM
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yea, I'm having them check it out and make sure its good to go. haven't heard back from them yet. I will have to check the rod length and piston compression. don't have any connecting rods yet. I would put the numbers up but the shop got the block and crank. I checked the casting number on the block before I bought it, not the crank though.
I found a cam at my house but the rpm range is 3750-7500 which might be a little aggressive for the street. any thoughts on that? thanks for the help
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