Originally posted by tresi
Well, before throwing away the 350 you need to be more specific about your goals. You want more power but how much? Are just wanting something a with more pep or are you trying to be the fastest guy in town? Are you willing to give up gas mileage, willing to put up with rough idle and an idle speed of 1200 rpm or so and do you still want the power brakes to work? How much money are you willing to spend on it? Lastly if you don't have much experience tuning motors with aftermarket carbs, manifold swaps and big cams I would suggest staying on the conservitive side. You'll find that even with the most basic bolt on upgrades you'll have to buy/make or modify related parts like throttle cable brackets, kick down cables, pvc plumbing, alternator/power steering/ air conditioner brackets.
I find that most people who are entry level to this hobby are quite surprised by the results of a well built small block with conservitive upgrades. Spend your money on quality parts rather than the most radical parts if this to be a daily driver. If I were you I would pick a cam with something close to these specs 204 intake 210 to 214 exhaust duration at .050" lift with 112 degree lope seperation. Pay little attention to they advertised duration such as 268, 272, 280 those numbers can be quite deceptive. There are cases where company a's 268 cam is the exact same grind as company b's 272 cam.
Go with something like an Edelbrock performer intake and a 600 cfm carb. Budget out what all this will cost pluse the cost of the basic rebuild of your engine with hyperuetectic pistons and moly rings and add a couple of hundred $$ for things that will come up unexepctedly. Figure all this up before you buy anything. If you still have money left over you might want to consider adding a stroker crank and pistons to make your 350 a 383. Keep in mind that a stroke motor is going to need a new flexplate, balancer and some grinding or machining so that the cranck and rods will clear the block and cam.
Good advice man, but I've made the mistake of putting a small-block in a big heavy car. I had teh roller cam, the dual plane, the headers, msd, decent compression and guess what? It wasn't nearly enough. If I had it to do over again, I would go with more cubes.
Furthermore, no motor idling rough at 1200 R's is going to move a tank out very well. Any motor you build is going to have to come up with some torque numbers off the bottom, or you're stuck. This is very obviously a daily driver car.
This is why I suggested a 400. First off, its cheap as you can use all the regular small block parts. You can stick a little more cam in them as they have the cubes to even out the idle (268 comps would be a great street cam for a 400). They're lightweight and do not require modifications to drop in as a big block would. I would argue after you spend the money on the 454, spend time and money changing the car to handle the big block you're money ahead just doing the 400. Keep in mind a big block is about 300 pounds heavier too (i might be off on this, but the point remains) you're sacrficing 300 pounds for 54 cubes. Not much difference in an et if you ask me!
Sound like the perfect motor yet?