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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 03:36 PM
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Doc here,

Depends on the car..

Pre 70's did not have them Factory Installed, but many were upgraded..

The usual places are at the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid at the 10 gauge wire, Or at the horn relay, or at a single terminal binding post close to the battery, Or even sometimes at the battery itself.







Doc

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Old 12-10-2006, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyJim
fusable link? where am I gonna find that at? any ideas or do you mean in the fuse box?
it is in with the wire coming from the starter
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:46 PM
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can anybody tell me what its rating is, or will the parts store be able to tell me?

lol, around here, the parts store personel are something else
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:53 PM
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Doc here,

You'll have to ask for your car specific, But I'd guess between 70 and 90 amps.

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Old 12-10-2006, 06:45 PM
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what would it hurt if I just eliminated it altogether. I called the parts store, and they told me "we don't have any listings for fusable links" are there going to be any markings on it when I tear it out of there? Or could I just replace the entire wire with a new one without the link in it?
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Old 12-10-2006, 07:00 PM
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Not recommended Jim.

That link is there to keep from burning up the entire harness.

All decent and most not so decent parts stores will have them.
But you will probably have to go to the electrical section and find 'em
yourself.

Keep in mind----you dead shorted a hot wire----only damage---$3.00 link.
as opposed to a toasted harness.

Had an ol Chrysler that the Alt shorted on my way home----melted everything in that harness to the firewall-----then attacked the dash harness.

Had to replace all the wiring in that car.

Had a 88 Bonneville that had an Alt Spike----took out all lamps, ignition, stereo fuse, and links. NO BURNED WIRES ANYWHERE
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Old 12-10-2006, 08:28 PM
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Doc here,

Fuse links are designed to protect the Electrical wire harness system from meltdown and FIRE..

If you bypass it the next time you "Short" something out..it won't be a small deal..it will be a major problem..

All the wires within the harness with that wire will melt together, and heat up and burn, possibly setting flammable surroundings on fire..such as interior parts, or oil, or grease..

Once that starts, you CAN"T Put the ignition source out..at least until the battery cable is cut or the battery explodes..you can pour all the water, or chemical on it you want, the minute you stop..it flares right back up..The resultant is a burned out hulk..that used to be your Rod.

Always use fuse links..AND if yours didn't have one..INSTALL one...

Auto Zombie has Fuse Links for like $5 .. a cheap insurance policy!



Fuse Link bypassed for a 2000 Watt
Amp.."I Don"t need 'em.." FD waiting
For Battery to Blow so they can put
it out...(Note Crime tape..)

Doc
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Old 12-10-2006, 09:15 PM
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you can get fuse link in a roll or by the ft from part stores........If you get some for 10ga wire it will look like 10ga on the outside but when you strip it back it looks more like 14ga......Just cut off the burnt one/ones and replace with same length.....butt connector on one end and ring terminal on other.....DO NOT solder fuse link wire!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-11-2006, 01:05 PM
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I think I found it, its on the firewall, almost behind the power brake booster.

it it "bolted" to a plastic housing, and has another separate wire bolted with it. it comes down a few inches, then into a small cylinder shaped plastic thingy, the 2 wires come out of the other side. how much of this thing should I cut out, or do I need to replace the whole thing, all the way to the alternator?
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Old 12-11-2006, 03:34 PM
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FINALLY!!! Got 'er running again. Actually suprised me, fired right up, had to play with the dist. to get it to run smooth, got a friend with a timing light coming over tommorrow. Gotta tighten the power steering belt, squeelin a little bit. I definitley need a new starter, I'm sure that day when I was trying to crank it over when the #7 cylinder was full of coolant and all it wanted to do was grind. I ruined the gear. Other than that, no white smoke out the rear, everything else seems good. It warmed up normally, I made sure that the coolant was topped off and the heater was on high. I'm still getting some spots in the upper radiator hose, and its throwing cold air, I know theres a lot of air in the system. Any tricks for me to get rid of the air? Just keep letting it idle and burping it?

also, how easy should I take it on this thing for a break-in period?

Last edited by ChevyJim; 12-11-2006 at 03:46 PM.
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