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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:26 PM
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Dakota digital does everything and is programable
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:15 PM
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Hey guys ran into a situation. The binary switch on the ac has 12volts at both terminals with the compressor running, when the compressor shuts off both terminals go to 0 volts. Im assuming that neither of those will work am I correct? The ONLY wire in the system I can see is here:

http://vintageair.com/DownloadsSecti...%29%20Inet.pdf

scroll down to page 23 on the wiring schematic.

The yellow wire on the blower motor has 12.9 volts only when the a/c is on and does not change with the compressor on or off. If I tap into this wire and use that as the signal wire for the electric fan will it put any strain or be bad to any components in the a/c system? Once the a/c switch is turned off there is 0 volts so I think this is the only wire available to use for the electric fan.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:31 PM
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Check the black wire on the AC thermostat.

Yellow is the low speed power to the blower. I don't think you want to use that one.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:43 PM
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the black wire was a huge pain in the butt just to even see...got the probe on it for the volt meter and it looks like that wire will work as well. Should I put a t-tap on that wire and run that up to the relay? Thanks
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Old 05-05-2011, 07:28 AM
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If it has 12V on it all the time that AC is requested even when the compressor cycles off, then that is the wire to use.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:07 AM
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Hey again! Im still finalizing the brackets that im making to hold the fan but I hooked up all the wiring and the toggle switch and a/c signals activate the fans. Dont know about the thermostat yet though because I havent been done enough to drive it and get the coolant hot. I do have one situation though, maybe you guys have some ideas.

The thermostat has a probe that goes in the upper radiator hose. Since doing that I think the wire coming off the probe that sticks out of the hose and goes to the thermostat may be creating a leak, the hose has a very very small leak now and im not sure what to do to fix it.

Maybe add a second clamp to that top hose for a tighter seal?
Any sealer/glue around the neck of the radiator and then slide the hose over that?
Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks a million!
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyrestore
Hey again! Im still finalizing the brackets that im making to hold the fan but I hooked up all the wiring and the toggle switch and a/c signals activate the fans. Dont know about the thermostat yet though because I havent been done enough to drive it and get the coolant hot. I do have one situation though, maybe you guys have some ideas.

The thermostat has a probe that goes in the upper radiator hose. Since doing that I think the wire coming off the probe that sticks out of the hose and goes to the thermostat may be creating a leak, the hose has a very very small leak now and im not sure what to do to fix it.

Maybe add a second clamp to that top hose for a tighter seal?
Any sealer/glue around the neck of the radiator and then slide the hose over that?
Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks a million!
To me that is a lousy way to measure temperature. There may be a way to seal something like this, but I have no experience. If the probe is not to long or to large of diameter, you can put it next to the incoming tank in between two tubes. Then epoxy or silicone sealer from the front to protect it. I did the adjustable fan controller on our S10 this way and it works fine.

Being in the coolant stream is the best place, but having the tube between the hose and the inlet neck is a leak waiting to happen as you have found. If you collapse the tube coming from the probe it will not work and the whole thermostat will have to be replaced.

Hopefully someone with a better solution will post. Good luck.
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:17 AM
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Instead of putting the probe into the upper radiator hose. Put it through the fins in between the core bars about 5 inches from the top as close to the tank with the upper hose.(unless you have a top/bottom tank then just keep it 5 inches from the top of the radiator core.) BTW it shouldn't be a wire on the probe it should be a copper or brass tube that contains mercury, just like a mechanical temp gauge sensor would have...So don't kink it
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:33 PM
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yeah haha I had a brain fart and couldnt remember what material it was so I just said wire. It is a tiny tube, id say the probe is about 1/4" thick. The radiator is a stock 59 chevy truck radiator recored to handle a v8 motor. Being as there isint a whole lot of free room on the radiator would it be ok to mount it about 3 inches to the left of the upper hose and about 2 inches down? I could probably fit in on the very top of the core and have it touching the top brass tank so it would be directly between the fins and the tank if you think thats a better spot.
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:56 PM
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Ya i don't see why that wouldn't work.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:57 PM
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awesome..got an update also. Made my brackets for the fans because those ties through the radiator scare me got all the wiring done and everything works awesome! 99% of that radiator leak is repaired even with the probe inside it but ill put it in the radiator in a couple days because im going out of town.

I let the truck sit for about 20 minutes and it started to get hot so I adjust the t-stat for the fan to where I want it. Then let it sit for about another 45 minutes and it never overheated

Looks like I can take that road trip now without being afraid itll overheat on me!

Thanks a ton to everyone who helped me out...im sure my grandpa will be excited. He bought this truck new back in 1959 and gave it to my dad and My dad passed it on to me so the 3 of us are going to take a nice long road trip

You guys are always awesome!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2011, 12:14 AM
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ok because of the addition of the a/c system and the electric fan I think I should also update from the GM SI alternator to the GM CS alternator. Ive got one here and have modified a bracket to fit it to the motor. Since this is a 4 terminal I know ill also have to add in a resistor or get one of those pigtails to make it work properly but heres where I get confused.

On my SI alternator there are the 2 spade terminals and 1 ring terminal. Ive got 1 of the 2 spade terminals going to the ring terminal and the ring terminal going direct to the battery. The 2nd spade terminal is currently unused. When I get this conversion pigtail how would I wire it up? Do I need to wire up that 2nd spade terminal to something? Thanks
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2011, 05:14 AM
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This should help, one is for the 3 wire, the others are 4 wire
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2011, 02:32 PM
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yeah i was getting confused because i didnt see a resistor in line but realized it was inside the connector. thanks!
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:37 PM
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ok one of the wiring diagrams I found online a while back recommended that I add a diode to the 2 terminals on the fan. I happened to have the right diode laying around so I figured I would add it. See the link below for the wiring diagram a little over half way down.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...cfan/index.php

I have the diode here and it has a color band on one side of it. Does the side with the band go on the negative or the positive side of the fan?
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