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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2006, 09:51 PM
NOTACOP
 

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welder

I have a miller MIG sidekick 110 volt, i have welded aluminum, stainless and mild steel with it, from 22 gauge to 1/4 inch mild steel, on the thick stuff i just turn it all the way up and burn it in real good and make multiple passes if needed. I think for Hotrodding it is perfect. Never had any problems with it. I think you can buy a new one for around $900.00 complete with the gas set up. I think the newer ones now have a higher out put than mine so the thick stuff would not be a problem at all.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 04:33 AM
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I believe that the Miller 135's and Lincoln 135's are going for about $600-$700 in the welding supply houses around here. That does not include the gas cyl. The Lincoln actually comes in different models. One has about 4 or 5 heat settings, the other has numbers there, but they are not "hard settings", in that you can set it part way in between, giving you better heat control. The only Miller I have seen and used is with out the "hard Settings".

Aaron
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 09:02 AM
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32 Rod,

Just my two cent's worth, but if you have 220V service, I would look into a 175 Amp machine which would do most Automotive work. Everyone here seems to have a brand preference. I would look at the units sold at Lowe's (fairly good return policy)-they have a Lincoln Pro Mig 175 at a good price (not a lot more than a 135).

I like the mallebility of a O/A weld, but it has a larger heat affected zone than a Mig (for sheet metal work)set up properly. If you are going to planish your welds, I would use O/A or Tig. If not, I would buy a Mig. The Mig would be faster (if time is an issue). We fabricate a lot where I work, and our best fabricator told me that he really doesn't need infinite heat control, that he can pretty well control the heat through wire speed and torch control. I have experimeted with this a bit, and now I believe him.

I have done a reasonable amount of welding on my project, and have both a Mig and a Tig. I find I use the Mig so much more-love the look and strength of the Tig weld, but the Mig is so much faster for a lot of stuff-

Craig
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32'ROD
And a mask. What should I be looking for. I want a very nice one to protect my eyes since Im still young, so im willing to pay a bit more for a nice one. Is there really a big difference between the $150 ones and the $300?Joe
When I bought my hood, I decided I didn't want to trust my eyesight to a piece of electronics that could fail. And I've seen them do it. I prefer the old style and didn't get an auto-darkening one. My hood with the full face (5x7?) gold lense cost me $45 and I'm quite happy with it.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 03:29 PM
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Kringold, That gold lens is about the best thing that ever happened to a conventional hood, I don't use anything else. I was sold on the auto hoods for a long time but I have fell out of favor with them since they all(the one's I have tried) seem to share a major fault and that is visibility, or lack of. It seems that they are too dark right at the puddle area when set to a comfortable level so it makes it hard to see the seam when using a MIG on something like a body panel. That and the fact that the dang things are just a PITA in low light situations such as inside a garage. On the plus side they have federally mandated minimum protection standards so even the cheap ones are safe to use and even if they fail to darken you still are protected from UV exposure. I think they have changed now but a couple of years ago the Hobart model called "The Hood" used the "Chameleon" electronics which just happened to be the same set used in the Harbor Freight hood that sold for $59.95 but the Hobart sold for $179.95 to 199.95 depending on the shell graphics. It was the same lens just a different shell.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 04:02 PM
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as far as the shield goes I have 3 different one a old (spectators) small window a new (mine) big window
and a spot shield for doing small stuff just GOT to remember to get the hands in sync when using it
welding IMO is a art form like painting the more you do it the better you will become {theoretically}

what ever hood you choose make sure its not too heavy for you and has adjustable head straps & the pivot points

SR66
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2006, 01:56 AM
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Whatever you do when buying a welder, DO NOT buy from superstore style hardware places. I bought my millermatic 175 and a good sized bottle for gas AND got a free fill (the guy said they don't normally give them but since I asked and was buying a welder he gave me a free fill) Anyhow, I paid about 1300 CDN. This was a great deal compared to the stuff in the big stores and from what I hear the Air Liquide shop I bought mine from are very good about any problems. All I know is I was treated very well by the guy who sold me the welder and if I need welding supplies and they can wait until I can go to their store, I wait (its 30 mins away).
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2006, 07:21 PM
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If u have 220 service I would go with a millermatic 210. I have the millermatic 251 and its a great machine. I have welded with the 210 and its a very nice machine for the money. It will work for welding frames and for sheetmetal. Also i believe the duty cycle is quite a bit better than a 110 machine.

Brad
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:34 PM
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My neighbor went to tech school for body work, there was 22 of them in there class. All they used was a 110 miller. That was two years ago.

Rob
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Old 01-07-2006, 05:56 AM
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RE: need a welder

Do yourself a favor, look into taking a night school course on basic welding. The experience will be priceless and save you allot of headaches. You will learn to weld quickly and properly right out of the gate with no bad habits. As far as the type of welder to buy I have two Lincolns one 235Amp stick and a 135Amp mig. Both have their place and have been used to build 2 T-buckets and many other projects. Just buy name brand from a good welding supplier. They are always there to help and know the business.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2006, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by predator carb guru
i've got an HTP MIG 200 and it works great. Jeff also has some lower output welders (migs) for really good prices. i wouldn't trade it for anything. just put my htp Tig 201 on layaway too, can't wait to get it. www.htpweld.com
I couldn't agree more. I've had my 140 (110 unit) for around 5 years, and it has been great. You should at least compare the features & quality before you buy. Also, Jeff Noland, is the president of the company. I've spoken with him on the phone & via email. He and his company provide great service also.
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