need wiring help on 74 nova - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 03:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oregon
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
need wiring help on 74 nova

car started 1 hr. ago but then i rewired the dist. and changed cap, roter, points, condenser and now it wont start. i got juice at the batt., alt., both sides of coil(when key is on) and i got spark at coil an no.1 plug but still no vroom-vroom. ne1 help?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 03:30 PM
johnnymopar's Avatar
Love your nails! You must be a Libra
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Stratford, ON, Canada
Posts: 599
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
you said you rewire the dist.? did you do the plug wires one at a time or yank them all off at once? i'd check to make sure you've got them on the right firing order.

JB
__________________
"Well done is better than well said." - Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 03:31 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Doc here,

Need more info..What car, year/ model, Size engine, type of ignition.

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 04:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oregon
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
plug wires r right.

its a 1974 chevy nova with a 4 bolt main 327 out of a 68 corvette. all the plug wires r right, juice in battery, gas in tank, spark at coil,plug wire, and plus, replaced old condenser and points thinking i had defective new ones. engine cranks but wont start.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 05:17 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Doc here,

Check the points, Should be 15 to 17 thousands, They may be too wide to support combustion.

The Fire order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 ...Double check this..5&7 can be back wards because they are the only two that are next to each other on both ends of the wires..This usually causes backfire and poor performance.

What color is the spark? Cold blue (good) or Anemic white/yellow (bad)

I assume you did not disturb the distributor (pull it out..) correct?

To include or exclude the ignition system, spray some starting fluid down the carb..(or dump some gas in) and try to start it...If it won't start it's Ignition. If it does start It's fuel delivery ..

If it doesn't start check the coil..get a DVOM, and set it foe R X 1 (calibrated to 000) and measure the primary side..It should read less than an ohm, but more than 000..outside of those ranges, toss it and get a new one.

Next set your meter for R X 10K and measure the secondary, it should read between 10,000 and 11,000 ohms. Out of this range toss the coil..



Check your Rotor button..(Don't shoot me..I've done it..) Make sure it's in there! Then use your meter on each end of the tang..it should read 000, then move the tang up and down, It should not change readings..you can just try your old rotor back in there too..

Be sure the pigtail on the points are not grounding out..and that the ground pigtail is in place.

Be sure your secondary Ignition is in place, this provides power to the coil while cranking..(when the key shuts off the rest of the car.) to quick test, just run a jumper from the battery to the + side of the coil..and try it..If it runs you need to repair or install an secondary ignition wire. You will have to pull this jumper off to stop the engine.

Make sure your Ballast resistor is in place and working. With the points closed, or jumpered shut, measure the + side of the coil , It should read between 6 and 9 volts if it is working. If it's 12 volts it's not working, and may have burned up the coil..points will burn out rapidly also.

That should find the problem.

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 06:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oregon
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
me again

everything you said to check i checked and it was right on, except yes i did pull the dist. so i could replace the wire that goes to the coil. i did get it back in right but then i thought maybe i put it in 180 out so i changed it but that was actually wrong so i put it back and i still have no vroom-vroom. about ready to put my shotgun to it !!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2006, 07:30 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Doc here,

Pull number 1 plug, Bring it up on compression, TDC, with the timing marks lined up and both intake and exhaust valves DEAD closed..Pull your cap, and verify #1 Plug tower (should be between 5 and 7 O'clock position) Is dead on #1 plug tower..

If this and all the other steps are correct, and NOTHING was overlooked, you have an Induction problem, not an Ignition problem.

There is nothing left electrically to check, with the exception of the condenser, you can pull it off the points, and try it, It will run briefly without it. If it's shorted, can kill spark.

Be sure your plugs aren't so wet they can't fire..and make sure the Dizzy is actually turning.

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2006, 09:49 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oregon
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
did all that

did all that but i still cant get it to start so i just dont know. i guess i have to just take it to a shop and pay a fortune to fix it. OR sell it !!! want to buy it?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2006, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: oregon
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
hey doc

maybe you could just call me at 541 513 6017 then we could just talk about it ok?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2006, 01:58 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Doc here,

Pull the plugs, Do a compression test..

Jack the throttle wide open, and crank at least 3 times on Compression stroke before you take the reading. If it reads lower than 125 on all cylinders you have some mechanical problems. (Valves/Rings)

If it reads REAL low all the way around, Like 75 to 90 , your timing chain has jumped. You will need to reverify that the #1 TDC, Compression stroke, Both intake and Exhaust valves are closed, and the timing marks line up. If you can't coordinate those, For sure the timing chain has jumped.

Your compression , Normally , Should be between 125 and 150 +/- 10% all the way around.

Try advancing the Distributer all the way counter clockwise, and see if the car wants to try to start, or if it kicks back against the starter, If it does it's about a tooth off on the distributer setting.

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wifes 74 nova project Larry Martin Introduce Yourself 4 01-27-2006 05:41 PM
diagram of a 1972 chevy nova wiring harness darnell25 Electrical 2 09-14-2003 05:14 PM
74 Nova response 74 Nova Engine 0 02-17-2003 11:28 AM
Need Wiring Diagram for 71 Nova sonicse Electrical 5 01-24-2003 12:24 PM
more power for 74 nova CombatWombat Engine 15 10-12-2002 09:10 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.