Originally Posted by chris78
the car hooks good with a good burnout and traction bars are all but touching just where their suppose to be i've been told by everyone that has looked at them.im stalling the car at around 2 grand can't really go higher because back brakes need some work and the car starts to push.planning to fix them during off season but only have two races left so making do till seasons done with them.i'm crossing the finish line a 5400 5600 rpm so i dont think gears need to be lowered and im in third by the 330 mark.i ran 26in slicks first few races and my et has stayed within a couple of hundreds.lower gear would take the car out of the power range woundn't it? i know the heads aren't idea planning to go aluminum if money is there this winter.same with cam planning to go with a 280 solid lift also. i have run against similar set ups and always seem to be 2 to 3 tenths slower but 3 to 4 mph faster then them.not looking to be king of the class but running points next year and just want to be in the middle of the pack.fastest cars running 7.20s slowest 9.0s hoping for low 8s and the maybe spraying it if a want to run 7.50 index next year to.
I'm sorry but this is not mathmatically possible with 1:1 final tans gear, 4.11:1 rearend gears, either 26 or 28" tall tires. You wont be in thrid gear at 79-80mph running 5400-5600rpm. In order for this to be possible you would have to be running either 5.32:1 rear gears or running a 20" tall tire.
take a look here:
RICHMOND Street Performance Calculator
Think about this for a second; I run a TH350 just like you with the 1:1 3rd gear, with 4.56:1 rear gears, and a 29" tall tire. I shift my car at 6600rpm. I have to shift a little before the 660ft mark (1/8mi) into second gear and my 1/8m speed stays right at about 92mph.
Now as for the 882 heads, they are smog era heads with very large combustion chambers. they will lower your compression around 1.5+ points. a general rule of thumb is that for every full point of compression you go up you gain around 7-10% power. this would mean that say you are making 350hp, you would loose around 40-50hp just by switching to the 882 heads. even though they were 350 heads they were only designed to produce 160-180hp from the factory, where as those 305 heads were designed to produce 150-160hp from the factory with 45 less cubic inches. so there really is no flow improvment with those 882 heads.
As far as the distributor goes, like Vinnie said i would check the wires, then even though it's a new distributor i would still check to make sure it's getting fire to each post. it's possible that you put it in a tooth of but as you said you should be able to get it to run at least a little better by advancing or retarding it.