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Old 11-13-2011, 04:24 PM
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nervous breakdown caused by 36 chevy frame

I seperated the frame rails on my 36 chevy truck . They were straight as an arrow when I boxed each seperatly. I start welding in cross members and my measurements are way off!!! the rails look like a sh*tty 2''X4" from menards!!!!the have bows and waves all over!!!! why is this happening?? any help? advice?

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Old 11-13-2011, 04:27 PM
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First thought would be excess heat while welding.....
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:45 PM
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Had the same thing

my 1948 for frame did the same thing from welding heat. I pulled it back after a week with steel I beams, chains and a come -a- long, cement blocks and a **** load of wood blocks. One frame horn I set an engine block on it while I heated the bend with a torch. Live and learn next time weld short beads then move to another area opposite the one you just done.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:41 PM
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When doing a frame..You should skip around as much as you can... (Even more if you don't know what a weld does)...Not saying you don't know how to weld,,,, Don't take this the wrong way..... But a good welder Know's where to weld and when to weld it there..... Weld WILL make things move around... You have to know when to use a weld to move it back......And where... Hard to say this and a way most will under stand..... Welding can make Metal do some funny things if your not careful..... To much weld in one area can make the whole job a mess...
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:11 PM
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i did weld small beads at a time but obviously it is what caused the warpage. does anyone have any advice or opinion on straightening it out? i have been using rachet straps which work weld/
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:10 PM
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you have a 3 axis movement on the straight pieces of frame.

Address each twist or bend separate,one at a time.make a diagram

x y z 3 dimensions put the frame on a flat surface (make on point as the

Origin say the drivers side rear corner ,fasten it down,dont let it move.
, tack weld it to a steel I beam.

from that corner your going to start taking your measurements,corner to corner.Your trying to make a perfect square.make a diagram

left rear -right front /right rear-left front x-pattern see how far your out of square. write down how many millimeters its out ,make a diagram.

with the DSRC fastened down take height measurements see how high a certain spot is.A laser level or a laser emitter works great to make

accurate sizes.make a diagram

Now you have your diagram written all the points as a reference.

Think were the bend is that you want to remove,find it ,then bend the frame

in the opposing direction and add a little more bend to take the memory out of the steel.(FASTEN IT DOWN)
You want a balanced action reaction on bending frames.

If you have to use a torch neutral flame heat it till just enough to bend
to much heat it gets very brittle and shatters.

One side at a time 2points on one side that are good FASTEN IT DOWN.

being level and straight is the only way to work out a twist .

On corners I would use the triangle formula A2+B2=C2 ////

You can do it.
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:41 PM
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frame warpage

I have a big steel table that i use. I weld a brace from the frame to the table every 12-18 inches. Then when I weld I skip around only welding 1/2 long beads. I use a wire welder set pretty high and move fast. I keep checking my dimessions every 12-16 welds. I tack the bottom in a few places, then I flip it over to finish the bottom welds, again tacking it to the table. Pain in the bu** but better than fixing it later. the first one I did I just welded it and it looked like a pretzel when I was done...Live and learn
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g&s restorod
I have a big steel table that i use. I weld a brace from the frame to the table every 12-18 inches. Then when I weld I skip around only welding 1/2 long beads. I use a wire welder set pretty high and move fast. I keep checking my dimessions every 12-16 welds. I tack the bottom in a few places, then I flip it over to finish the bottom welds, again tacking it to the table. Pain in the bu** but better than fixing it later. the first one I did I just welded it and it looked like a pretzel when I was done...Live and learn

I used a steel table to make off road baja frame for my college class,EVERY JOINT every space every fitting was Tig welded ,to be honest I was out by a

1/16 -1/8 on square,but by the lords hand it held up to 5 days of off road on road racing.

Sanitary stainless steel tigging is my forte,FDA approved.
I love stainless steel .

I did do stop cool then put a wet rag around the joint to keep the warp to a min.
With truck frames to me what I do is ,spot stop spot stop ,opposing side

spot stop spot stop,do I make sense.Let the heat bleed off.

Ive used 7018 DCN and 6013DCN hit miss hit miss,7024 works great.

If its real thin 6011 drag method,for a test I had to do it horizontal,1/8 mild
plate.
6011 is not pretty ,7018 is/ 6013 is /6010 I hate that rod ,my neck still has a
scare from overhead welding.

For a frame THATS CLEAN OF MILL SCALE ,Tig it on a hit and miss style

and use wet rags for dissipation of heat. 70/30 blend of Argon CO2 is good.

But SMAW GTAW,have a great use in framing.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:52 AM
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Oh its perfectly square now haha. It was very hillbilly what I did, but its level,square, and true now haha. lets just say thanks to a full size truck and a engine hoist.
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