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Old 04-11-2005, 10:53 PM
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Never done this.....

Hey guys.


I just picked up a 1972 F100, and it has 4 wheel drums. I would like to swap to front disc and pwer brakes, and have never done this. Would the spindles from a newer ford p/u fit on the king pins of my 72? I know I will need the combination valve and proportioning valve as well. Also, I would like to lower the front of the truck a bit. Any ideas how to compensate for the camber change without bending the I beams, or is that the only way?

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Old 04-12-2005, 05:24 AM
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The twin "I" beams were the same until they started putting ball joints in the Fords....Sorry, I don't remember what year that was.....some time in the 80s, I think.
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Old 04-12-2005, 06:00 AM
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May I suggest you forget your disc brake idea. Especially for trucks I think the drums are better...because you got no rotors to worp and the shoe brakes wear longer and are much easier to fix. If all one did was change the disc pads once in a while they are better but most times yopu need rotor work. That requires disassemble of the whole hub just to get to them and then they seem only to take one turning and they are gone, both my fords are on their multi rotor replacements and I dont have the tools so I have to go to brake place to get them worked on it runs on average two trucks about 200 dollars per year and one truck only has 37000 miles on it the other has about 139000. I can do drums but the four wheel take down is costly.
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Old 04-12-2005, 10:51 AM
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The tool situation is no problem, and the cost to repair it is no problem either, as I am a mechanic by trade. I am only changing fronts over, so the rears will still be drum. Not having ever done this to a Ford, I was just wondering if the king pins were different, and how to correct the camber change after lowering. Now that the pin issue is clarified, all I need is the camber info and I am set! Thanks guys!!
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:22 AM
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Camber change

I believe the only way to change camber on one of those is to bend the I-beams...If there is another way I am soon to find out as I am using one in my project..

I think you can lower a mite..say taking out one coil and it should be ok..going to a severe drop might require some rethink..those are double pigtail springs..least my van springs are sooo cutting a coil is a questionable action..May be that modified spring pockets may be an answer..

Since mine is a rod project I am getting my ride height by Z-ing the frame...and letting the front end stay at factory height..

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Old 04-12-2005, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
The tool situation is no problem, and the cost to repair it is no problem either, as I am a mechanic by trade. I am only changing fronts over, so the rears will still be drum. Not having ever done this to a Ford, I was just wondering if the king pins were different, and how to correct the camber change after lowering. Now that the pin issue is clarified, all I need is the camber info and I am set! Thanks guys!!
I do not know about the king pins (spindle), maybe a call to a salvage yard or two. Someone with a Hollander would be able to look up the spindle and see if the factory disc used the same part.
The only two ways I have seen for correcting the camber are aftermarket I-beams (drop kit) or I have seen the I-beams cut and a plate welded to each end with the corrected angle and bolted together. I would want a welder with very good credentials to do the plates.
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:07 PM
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Go to a junk yard and look at a 73 Ford F100. Some of them had Disc Brakes on the front. Check to see if the spindle is the same as the 72. You might even want to check with Classic Performance Products.

www.classicperform.com

They might have a bolt-on kit.

I know that LMC has front disc parts for a 72 F100.

www.LMCtruck.com
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Old 04-13-2005, 12:54 PM
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Thanks guys. I have a 1974 donor truck for my brake parts, and I found a ford BB that detailed how to change to the new spindles.

Quote:
Especially for trucks I think the drums are better...because you got no rotors to worp and the shoe brakes wear longer and are much easier to fix. If all one did was change the disc pads once in a while they are better but most times yopu need rotor work. That requires disassemble of the whole hub just to get to them and then they seem only to take one turning and they are gone, both my fords are on their multi rotor replacements and I dont have the tools so I have to go to brake place to get them worked on it runs on average two trucks about 200 dollars per year and one truck only has 37000 miles on it the other has about 139000. I can do drums but the four wheel take down is costly.
The newer rotors are made much thinner than stuff as old as I am using. Older rotors will take several turnings before they are junk. Disc brakes on the front wear out faster due to the percentage of braking they do. Rear brakes only do between 20 and 40% of the total braking force, so the fronts take up the other 60-80%. The warping issue is more common on the lighter newer rotors. Discs are very easy to repair, needing (usually) just a c-clamp to push the pistons back in. I personally believe that disc are better due to the better cooling, and the sheer amount of stopping force that they can deliver. The hydraulic advantage you gain is phenominal, and while they don't self energize, power assist provides the extra "oomf" needed. With the power brakes, disc brakes will stop a heavier load faster, and with very minimal brake fade, whereas a drum brake cannot (in an automotive application) shed the heat fast enough, and fades.
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Old 04-13-2005, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wally
May I suggest you forget your disc brake idea. Especially for trucks I think the drums are better...because you got no rotors to worp and the shoe brakes wear longer and are much easier to fix. If all one did was change the disc pads once in a while they are better but most times yopu need rotor work. That requires disassemble of the whole hub just to get to them and then they seem only to take one turning and they are gone, both my fords are on their multi rotor replacements and I dont have the tools so I have to go to brake place to get them worked on it runs on average two trucks about 200 dollars per year and one truck only has 37000 miles on it the other has about 139000. I can do drums but the four wheel take down is costly.
I swapped out the rear drums on both of my trucks! I can't stand drum brakes
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:09 PM
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today is your lucky day. check out www.fordification.com

great tech articles. and a great board too.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:59 PM
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Great site, Larry, lots of good info. Thanks for asll the help, with this stuff it should be easy!!
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