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Old 12-09-2008, 04:52 PM
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New 383 Starter Problem!!!

Hello guys I am having a problem starting my newly built 383. I am not sure what is going on but I have had the starter tested and the battery tested and I am unable to get the engine to turn over properly. The starter I am using is actually for a stock 350 4 bolt main bought from auto zone. It turned over my old motor without a problem. However I have quite a bit more compression in this engine. With this 383 I sitting at 11:1 compression. I was wondering would I need to get a new starter or could it be something else that may be wrong.
I also can turn the engine by hand and I do not have any wiring problems that I know of or have seen. If I try to turn the starter over without it bolted to the engine it does turn like its suppose to. Any help would be great.

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Old 12-09-2008, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
and I am unable to get the engine to turn over properly.
Ayuh,.. You haven't said Exactly what the Problem is...

Is it turning over Slow,..??
Not turning over at All,..??
Making Bad Noises,..??
Smoking,..??
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:47 PM
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Could be too small wire running from the battery to the starter or some other high resistance. Ground the engine to the frame in two places. Clean connections too.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:30 PM
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One big problem you have, is the starter itself. A stock replacement starter will have a very difficult time cranking over a 11.1 engine. They are designed to crank over under 9.1 engines easily. One from Autozone? Good luck cranking over a 8.3 to 1 engine. They are not of the best quality rebuilds. JMO

You will need to get a Power Master, or equivalent, gear reduction starter with the capacity rating to crank over a 12.1 to 13.1 compression ratio.
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:11 AM
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If you have enough cam that your dynamic compression ratio is reasonable, it shouldn't be that hard to turn over. My old 292 Chevy six had something over 12:1 static CR, and the stock starter from the original 8.5:1 230 cranked it over just fine, possibly because the 310* cam dropped the DCR to a reasonable level.

Another thing, if your initial ignition timing is too far advanced, it can cause it to be hard to turn over, making a noise like a-wump, a-wump, a-wump, with rotation stopping or nearly stopping in between a-wumps. Sometimes you just get one a-wump before the starter quits.
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Another thing, if your initial ignition timing is too far advanced, it can cause it to be hard to turn over, making a noise like a-wump, a-wump, a-wump, with rotation stopping or nearly stopping in between a-wumps. Sometimes you just get one a-wump before the starter quits.
It does that but I took the distributor out just to see if that would make a difference and it still had the same problem. I acts as if the battery does not have enough juice to turn it over. But I have had the battery checked I also have grounded directly to the motor but I will try to ground to the frame as well just to make sure that that is not an issue.

Quote:
Is it turning over Slow,..??
Not turning over at All,..??
Making Bad Noises,..??
Smoking,..??
It smokes at the negative terminal when I let it go for more than a second or to. Also it turns really slow.

Last edited by Chevytalbert; 12-10-2008 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:59 AM
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It smokes at the negative terminal when I let it go for more than a second or to. Also it turns really slow.
Ayuh,... That alone says the Neg. terminal/ cable is Dirty or Faulty...

When talking electricity,...
Anytime there's a Heat issue, aka. Smoke...
That means there's Resistence There....
While it may not be your Whole problem,...
It is none the less atleast Part of the problem....

I'd start by removing All of the starter's wiring,...
Inspect, sand, clean,+ reinstall, then apply a light coat of Grease over the connections...
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:12 PM
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Smoking at the negative battery connection indicates a bad connection there.

I would suspect there is corrosion in the cable end, or in the cable itself. You may also need to scrape off the paint at the block connection.

Also read this.
For Your Information!
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:13 PM
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You can just unplug the distributor instead of pulling it out. shutting off the electricity is the same as not having the distibutor in the motor at all. Hopefully you marked it before you pulled it. Of course that wouldn't really matter if your timing was way off in the first place.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:44 AM
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Actually it was a combination of the cables being to small and the battery it turns over like a charm. But i cant seem to get it to fire off right I suspect that the timing is off is their a way to get the timing back on with out using a tool i Have heard from some mechanics that if you put your finger over the number one plug hole till it gets blown off and then turn it i quarter turn that will get you close but I have tried that and am not close enough. I have also tried to turn the distributor a notch or to eather way but still have not had any luck getting it to start.
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:04 AM
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i Have heard from some mechanics that if you put your finger over the number one plug hole till it gets blown off and then turn it i quarter turn that will get you close but I have tried that and am not close enough.
Nope,...

When you feel pressure, rotate the motor til the Timing Mark says it's TDC....
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondo
Nope,...

When you feel pressure, rotate the motor til the Timing Mark says it's TDC....
Put a screw driver, or long zip tie in the #1 spark plug hole, and watch for movement up and down, There is always a likely hood of the old balancer being 'spun' a little.
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