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Old 05-03-2005, 09:40 PM
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New Alternator & Voltage Regulator..but still no charge?

1965 Chevelle, new alternator, new external voltage regulator and new horn relay. Factory wiring.

Across the battery terminals I am getting 12.4 volts, (12.2 with lights on) at idle or 2500 rpm.....that is until the battery goes dead. Everything was fine until a day or so ago when I went out to start it and it wouldn't go....now I just can't get anything higher than 12.4 volts on the multimeter. So I bought a new volt reg and alt tonight...still the same.

This is a fresh engine rebuild but the only wiring harness that was new was the engine harness...I am not exactly electrically inclined...although I do have the factory wiring schematics...but I have no idea where to start tracing?

- I checked the power wire from the battery to the horn relay...same reading as across the battery terminals.
- I checked the power wire to the alternator...same reading as across the battery terminals.
- Coincidentally (or not) the horn is not working...but I have not tried it since the rebuild.
- Checked the ground from the votlage reg...looks OK..but not sure how I can confirm this?

How can I or what do I check on the F and R terminals on the alternator wires? What else should I check?

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Old 05-04-2005, 05:16 AM
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Charge

Doc here,

I can give you a few things to try..

This should be the schematic for your car..I know it Say's 67-8 but should apply to earlier models too...

The first thing that makes me suspicious is that you said the new horn relay doesn't work either..look on the diagram and note the fuse link between the solenoid and the horn relay..Is that still good? you need to check that..

Also Do you get a Batt or Charge light when you First turn the key on? If not change the bulb..on some systems, when the bulb goes out it will quit charging..

If all that is good, you will need to check or adjust the point gap (about 14 thousands) and air gap (about 67 thousands) at the regulator...

As for the ground, Run a #10 Black wire from the regulator "Foot" mount to the engine block or battery to insure proper grounding..Those regulators were mounted on rubber shock mounts..and sometimes don't provide a good ground.

Try that, and let us know your progress..



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Old 05-04-2005, 07:20 AM
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OK..changed my thinking here. I am going to convert to a 10SI one wire alternator.

Only one question...since I have a power wire direct from the Batt + terminal to the horn relay....can I go from this terminal direct to the Alternator?

I think my horn problem has to do with not grounding across the rag joint?

Last edited by wickster; 05-04-2005 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:23 PM
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Wire

Doc here,

That wire is the one that has a fuse link on it (if it still exists) other place to look is the starter, there should be two or three 10 Gauge red or black wires coming off the main terminal bolt...a few inches back will be the link..(If it is still there).

On the new one wire alternator, I would wire it thusly, Run your red wire, 10 gauge, to a single terminal terminal block near the battery. Then install a fuse link on that wire, and extend it to the Battery direct.

On the New alternator, there exists a ground bolt, get a 10 gauge black wire, and run that from the Alternator to the battery ground post...The reason for this is the alternator case is aluminum and the mounts are steel..over time the bolts will build up electrolysis, and not ground well...this will insure that your ground stays solid in the future..

The Horn relay, If your not hearing it click, your either not getting a ground from the steering column horn button, (find this wire on the relay and ground it, the horn should blow) Or the Power wire with the link is open (if grounding it won't click the relay)
..Run that over to your new one terminal block..that should make everything correct again..

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Old 05-05-2005, 07:18 AM
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Apologies in advance for my stupidity.

So here is what the problem was....When I rebuilt the engine over the winter...I bought a cheap parts store pigtail for the alternator. I matched up the wire colors and done. Problem was that the wires were reversed ...the F terminal was R and vice versa. I switched the terminals last night...checked the voltage...14.2V.

The only thing that is weird is that I probably have 250 miles on the car since this change and the battery only went dead now. I am not running any electronics (not even a radio) and have not driven at night yet.
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Old 05-05-2005, 03:59 PM
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Battery

Doc here,

Glad to hear you solved the problem!

You need to load test that battery, to see if it CAN hold a charge now...

It may just need a good 6 to 10 hour charge on a charger to bring it up...


An alternator won't restore a full charge on a battery that has suffered "Full" discharges (additive over time from no charge state.)

Alternators are designed to support the Draw required by the Electrical system during operation (lights,Ignition etc) ..and replace "Surface" Discharges..(Starter Draw ) over the period of time the engine is in operation..

If it won't charge back up, or load tests bad..than replace that puppy..

Try those and see if it doesn't fix the battery Situation.

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Old 05-05-2005, 04:29 PM
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Also Do you get a Batt or Charge light when you First turn the key on? If not change the bulb..on some systems, when the bulb goes out it will quit charging..
i got that same problem on my camaro. i forgot it's not charging, till i drove it tues. nite. my bud asked if the bat light came on and it wasnt. think this bulb could be hozin me on a 72?
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:24 PM
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Bulb

Doc here,

I'd change it regardless..If when you first turn the key on without the engine running, and no light..It's out, and I'm not sure on the 72 (without looking it up) but its a good clue, and a good place to start...

Change the bulb, and check the battery voltage at idle..should be between 13.75 and 14.4 if it's charging, If not, pop the cap on the regulator and see if the points are closing..

Meantime, I'll try and pull my Camero Manual for ya..and see how how that is actually hooked up and post it here..

Doc

EDIT: Ok pulled the manual...It looks like the Charge light is in the path to the regulator on the Ignition or "Run" Side...so yeah, change the bulb if it's out! ... Here it is:



Hope that helps!

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Last edited by docvette; 05-05-2005 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Added Info...
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Old 05-14-2005, 11:55 AM
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hey doc, you aint gonna f'ing believe this one, but once i finally found out where the voltage regulator was, and they are in one of two locations on a camaro, and LOOKED AT IT IN THE DAYLIGHT!!! i found out why it wasnt working.... the plug in connector wasnt plugged into the g'damned thing!!! once i plugged it in FOR SOME MYSTERIOS REASON it started charging. what a ******
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Old 05-14-2005, 04:52 PM
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Kewl

Doc Here,

Gee, Ya Think? Lol...Kewl...Glad to hear you got it Working!

And Thanks for posting back the fix, So maybe the next guy can benefit from you experience...

It's always the simple things that mess ya up!

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Old 05-14-2005, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullheimer
i found out why it wasnt working.... the plug in connector wasnt plugged into the g'damned thing!!! once i plugged it in FOR SOME MYSTERIOS REASON it started charging. what a ******
, yepppp then things need to be plugged in to make it work..lol...joe
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:47 PM
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I have the same problem for my 1964 Fairlane 500. Brand new regulator and alternator, no charge.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:14 PM
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