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-   -   New to bodywork, need some advice (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/new-bodywork-need-some-advice-231357.html)

Kevin316 03-31-2013 06:44 PM

New to bodywork, need some advice
 
I have just started doing body work on by truck bed and I have a couple of questions.

I am spending quite a bit of money on this thing so I don't want to cut corners.

As you can see from the picture below the box has seen better days, a typical work truck. No rust and very few big dents but lots of small dings.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8254/8...1b2f19af_c.jpg

I started pulling the dings with my stud welder and slide hammer and made some good progress. My question is should I be happy with the results or should I be trying for a better finish before going to primer and filler. I can't get to the back side with a dolly so I'm not sure how I would go about getting it better.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8...b3634ec5_c.jpg
photo[4] by kmatlock40

I haven't did anything to the closest dent.

I ask these questions only because I will obsess over it unless I know it is "Good"

33Willys77 03-31-2013 07:58 PM

Not sure what year that truck is, but there is a lot of aftermarket parts available for these that would make it much easier to repair. You are going to have filler from one end to the other and if you are asking this question, you have no prior experience. Getting something straight comes from experience and this project, from the pictures you supplied, show this project is not for a beginner. With stud guns, you should be able to get the dents just about out with minor filling. Good luck.

tech69 03-31-2013 10:14 PM

not the news he wants to hear but he said he's putting a lot of $$$ into this. I agree, that bedside is a A LOT of work even for a pro.

Kevin, I hate to say it but if you don't do bodywork and are attempting to straighten that bedside YOU are the shortcut and you need to pay somebody to do that for you. Not trying to knock your ability but it's not easy.

Valkyrie5.7 03-31-2013 10:58 PM

I'd try and find a less "worked" bed to start with for your project on craigslist or the junkyard. You can always keep this one and at least use it as something to cut your teeth on. A lot can be learned by just getting in there and getting dirty, as long as you've got someone with know-how helping you out.

MARTINSR 03-31-2013 11:06 PM

If you are going to do this bed, if you are dead set on doing it (it is a biggie) you are on the right track. You can continue to stud up those low spots and tap down any high spots you can refine it a more before you apply filler.
What you want to do is break it down into small enough steps that you can do it. That is the cool thing about this stuff, most anyone can do it if you break it down into small enough steps.

What you need to do now is get a long board and run it over the top of a small section with some fine sand paper, 120-180-220 it really don't matter. A vexon metal file would also work, but I doubt you have one, so a "long board" an 18" sanding board like this will do the trick.
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...e/sg/89920.jpg

Running this over that primed metal will show you the high and the low spots. You can keep pulling on those low spots with a stud welder and taping down the high spots until that metal is darn near perfect if you want, you are well on your way to that!

This is a very cool tool for doing this, instead of a slide hammer to pull on the studs like the stud kit comes with, this allows you much more control.

http://r2.cygnuspub.com/files/cygnus...o_10105967.jpg

There are zillions of places to get one but here is the first I found on line. http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/p..._HDR_ID=103068

After you do that then we are talking about applying and sanding filler, but that is five or ten steps down the road. Stick with where you are at a little while longer.

Brian

Old Fool 04-01-2013 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR (Post 1662153)
If you are going to do this bed, if you are dead set on doing it (it is a biggie) you are on the right track. You can continue to stud up those low spots and tap down any high spots you can refine it a more before you apply filler.
What you want to do is break it down into small enough steps that you can do it. That is the cool thing about this stuff, most anyone can do it if you break it down into small enough steps.

What you need to do now is get a long board and run it over the top of a small section with some fine sand paper, 120-180-220 it really don't matter. A vexon metal file would also work, but I doubt you have one, so a "long board" an 18" sanding board like this will do the trick.
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...e/sg/89920.jpg

Running this over that primed metal will show you the high and the low spots. You can keep pulling on those low spots with a stud welder and taping down the high spots until that metal is darn near perfect if you want, you are well on your way to that!

This is a very cool tool for doing this, instead of a slide hammer to pull on the studs like the stud kit comes with, this allows you much more control.

http://r2.cygnuspub.com/files/cygnus...o_10105967.jpg

There are zillions of places to get one but here is the first I found on line. http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/p..._HDR_ID=103068

After you do that then we are talking about applying and sanding filler, but that is five or ten steps down the road. Stick with where you are at a little while longer.

Brian

Brian - I hate you! You keep showing cool tools that I think I need and I keep spending,spending,spending, LOL.

In the past I have always used a pair of vice grips and a board, levering the vice grips over the board to pull on the tip, it works but this tool looks to be far faster easier to use :)

That is one tool I will be acquiring immediately if the local supplier has it for a reasonable price.

I found it at ToolDiscounter for $31, but their shipping is $17.

@ 15# it is a substantial piece and shipping is expensive.

boothboy 04-01-2013 08:47 AM

Here you go. $30 bucks--- free shipping. Yeah I know I'm great.

BB :thumbup::thumbup:

Stud Lever for Use with Stud Welder Dent Pulling Tool by Steck Mfg | eBay

Kevin316 04-01-2013 11:41 AM

Thanks for the responses guys. I know if I keep picking at it I will keep making progress. My thought is to get is as close as I can and the pass it on to a body man to complete it.

The problem with getting a new box is that they don't reproduce the short box. This is good compared to what I can find around here. If you can find a short box they are usually badly rusted and they are a farm truck so I wouldn't be much further ahead. You can buy long bed panels but they need to be shortened and the quality of the jobber panels are not of great quality.

Old Fool 04-01-2013 01:48 PM

BTW Brian, my bank account balance is now $29.95 less :thumbup:

tech69 04-01-2013 01:51 PM

the stud lever IS a STUD~!

Kevin316 04-01-2013 08:01 PM

Sadly they quote $75 shipping to Canada lol. I can't find anyone in Canada that sells it.

MARTINSR 04-01-2013 08:03 PM

I have sold a lot of items on ebay shipping them all over the world, I am not kidding shipping to Canada is the biggest pain, it's right there, I have driven into Canada yet is is easier and cheaper to send something around the earth to Japan or something, wild.

Brian

Kevin316 04-01-2013 08:07 PM

Throw it in a box and send it by USPS (the only shipping I will accept) and it's not going to be $75. It's only 1.2 lbs!

Old Fool 04-07-2013 06:05 AM

My Ebay Stud lever purchase arrived the other day, looks like new, Thanks for the heads up!

MARTINSR 04-07-2013 08:08 AM

Right on, control is the key and that tool give it to you, way better than a slide hammer.

Brian


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