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Old 03-11-2014, 05:33 PM
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New break 11"boster, porportioning valve

I hope this isn't a old question , looked but could not find my answer. Instaled a new 11" boster and porportioning valve, ran new brake lines, and filled up the master cylinder with fluid. Opend up the bleeder on one rear wheel and pumped the brake peddle but nothing. So I took off the line, [ see picture ], expecting brake fluid to start flowing out but still nothing. I then oppend up the plug, [see picture with the cresent wrench ], and put a fine wire in the opening and had a frend step on the brake peddle and I could feel the plunger hit the wire. Also took off the line, [ see picture with the wrench on the right side ], and still no fluid. Im stumped. Was not expecting a problem from this simple setup. Can someone HELP. I hope that because I don't do brakes it will be somting simple that I am not seeing. Wow, hope this isn't a prelude of things to come this spring. Thanks and I appreciate the help I get from you guys.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:08 PM
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Firstly, please tell me that isn't copper tubing ... it looks like maybe you have sprayed copper-colored paint, as I see it on the steering column coupler as well, right?

If we're OK so far, it's possible that you may have the pressure differential valve (part of the typical off of it's "centered" position. (If the warning light comes on, you know it's off-centre)

This is by design, as it's an internal safeguard that blocks fluid flow to either the front or rear brakes in the event of a catastrophic failure. (i.e. hose rupture) or any condition where there is a pressure differential between the two fluid circuits.

You MAY have triggered this when pumping up the brakes. You should use slow steady strokes to move that fluid rather than quick hard succession of strokes.

In any case, there is usually a pin and boot on front of the combination (aka "proportioning / pressure differential") valve that you can use to re-center the pin to the detent position.

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Old 03-11-2014, 06:51 PM
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Thanks for the reply. The truck is going to be black / copper everthing else and the brake lines are painted and cleared. As for the porportioning valve it probebly works fine. The problem, is when I took off the lines, [all of them ], I can't get any fluid out of the maset cylinder. It is full, and I depressed the pedal, but even with the lines off at the master cylinder I get nothing.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:11 AM
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Did you bench bleed the master?
And did you brace that firewall real good or just bolt that booster on it. Those firewalls flex a bunch.
And did you move the pushrod hole on the brake pedal down about 1 1/2 inches. You need about 4.5 to 1 pedal ratio for power brakes compared to 6 to 1 for manual.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:01 PM
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thank's for the info. I called the company that sold me the boster and master cylinder and thay said the bleed kit was supposed to be in the kit. Thay are sending me one. The fire wall is braced. and I am going to take the master cylinder off and bench bleed it. It is one of the things I was trying to short cut, and as old as I am ,I should know better. Actualy becaus I don't know much about it I should have spent more time on it. As for the 4 to 1 brke ratio, I will look at that also. Thank's againe
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:50 PM
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Maladjusted!

It sounds like your master cylinder actuating rod has pushed the master cylinder piston too far forward in the bore past the fill holes located in the bottom of the reservoirs. If so, the brake fluid cant flow to the correct locations.
Check your brake pedal adjustment- you may have the actuating rod adjusted incorrectly (too long?)
Google "master cylinder fill and compensating ports " for a picture of what's happening, and note how the master cylinder wont fill if the piston has moved forward past the fill hole.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:05 AM
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when I take it off to bench bleed will it correct itself or do I have to position it ?
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Old 03-15-2014, 03:22 PM
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Loosening the brake lines at the master cylinder as you show should allow gravity to cause the brake fluid to fill the piston area through the fill and compensating ports located in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, and after a short time fluid should flow from the loosened connections- just make sure they are very loose so the brake fluid can displace the air in the piston area . If this procedure produces no fluid at the loosened connections, then you need to check if the brake actuating rod is moving the brake pistons forward past the reservoir fill holes. This sounds to me like the brake linkage is adjusted too far forward, moving the cylinder pistons forward, and not allowing the fluid to enter the chambers.
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Old 03-15-2014, 03:26 PM
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Hopefully this link will show the correct location of the reservoir ports and piston position
http://teachersites.schoolworld.com/...y%20brakes.pdf
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:37 PM
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Got a 78 Camaro & I've put Wilwood Disc brakes in back, using OE master cylinder, do I still need a brake booster?
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:48 PM
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Did you know sleddog that's it's not nice to highjack someone else's thread.
Start one of your own. You'll get more responses.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:01 PM
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thanks every one. The problem was fixed. After bench beeding, and reinstaling, I tryed againe to bleed the lines. but still nothing. So I went from front to back [ losening the line fittings ], to find the problem. And whene I got to the rubber hose on the diferential it was pluged up solid. after replaceing it every thing went as normal. Bleeding from farthest rear brake to closest front last. But I have to tell you that I had to fill all the lines by a bottle and rubber hose and gravity first because of all the air that was in the lines that would compress when I pumped the brake peddle.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:10 PM
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Excellent!! Good you got it figured!!
Another tip for you.
If you get a flare fitting that's hard to keep from leaking or drawing in air, try this.
Repeatedly loosen and tighten the fitting. A bit of heat will build up from that and the softer metal in the flare will move a hair and seat the flare and stop the leaks.
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