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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2005, 09:41 PM
1929 ford tudor
 
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New builder

Ive just started building my first rod (29 ford tudor) Right now i have the body, frame (ive boxed) and a 302. Id like to keep everything on it FORD. I plan to chop and channel the body, i want it to be slammed. I was thinking that i would run a speedway 6" drp axle (spring behind) and a 4 link with a 9" in the rear. This is my first car that i will be building im doing all the fab (im a welder by trade) and ive got a couple of ideas that i need feedback on.. any advise would be great!

- what about running dropped spindals with a dropped axle in the frnt.
also ive got a pair of round thunderbird tails that id like to flush mount to the body i havent seen many guys run that.

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Old 05-10-2005, 11:45 PM
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First up, welcome to the board. Good to see young guys getting into the hobby.
First and very important in setting up a car is to lay all your cards on the table. As you want to chop and channel the A Model you will be the one that decides where the chassis is going to be relative to the ground. Just one thing though, with that big dropped axle and a T Bucket type perch as you are describing, you sould be pretty low at the front already, channeling the body will reduce ground clearance even more. You need to mock up the front and rear ride height before you start hacking away. Your stance is determined by the chassis location relative to the centre line of your wheel with the tyre assembled on to it, in other words;where your spindle is, will determine the height of the spring perch and then the front spring crossmember and so on. With a huge drop of six inches the middle of your axle will not be far off the ground unless you run REALLY tall front tires. So dropped spindles are not needed, I havent seen them for dropped axles anyway.
Next up the same applies to the rear end, measure to the center of your wheel and tire height, and you locate the chassis from there, this allows the chassis height and angle to be set. Now you can work backwards and see how to make the back half of the car clear the rear end, may I suggest that as you are a welder you could fabricate frame kickups at the rear instead of channeling? This will give you some more floor to roof height so you can actually sit in the thing. A mate of mine had a 35 Ford pickup that was chopped 5 inches and radically channeled and you had be a yoga instructor to sit in it! Remember though its YOUR car so just take this or any other advice as recommendations not criticism. Good luck.
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Old 05-11-2005, 03:26 AM
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A 6 inch drop gets the axle very close to the ground and can get easily damaged. Evaluated your intended use for the car and how much you plan to drive it when deciding on stance. Yeah those chopped and dropped belly draggers look cool but in my town I couldn't even go to the store with a car like that. If you really want the car low, you might consider Z ing the frame in front. If you do it right in front of the toe boards, the cowl will still conceal most of it.
Glad to see you keeping it all Ford.
FWIW I am planning a suicide front end with the springs hung off the split wishbones. Although I am using an enconoline axle, the stock A smiley face axle looks real nice stuck out front on a traditional rod. A drilled one looks even cooler.
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:10 AM
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Why not air?

This isn't a ford part, but why not use an air suspension? You can have it low enough to prevent damage when cruising, and when parked, slam it on the ground. With your welding skills, mounting the airbags won't be a problem. You can hide the compressor under the body tucked up by the frame rail, or hide it under the seat!
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:30 AM
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Mock it up

Block your chassis up to ride height and measure measure measure..set the rear in the location it needs to be and figure out where and how you are going to mount it and what kind of arms will work..

On those severe drop axles there can be interference with tie rods and such if not planned for..I hope you are going to use cross steer spindles and steering box..Works a lot better IMHO..

Best if you have all the front axle pieces in hand so the axle assmbly can be slid under and checked for clearance and function before you weld anything up..

Tire sizes? having tires and wheels on hand of the size you intend to use is helpful as well..helps the layout work a lot..

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Old 05-11-2005, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncoII88
This isn't a ford part, but why not use an air suspension? You can have it low enough to prevent damage when cruising, and when parked, slam it on the ground. With your welding skills, mounting the airbags won't be a problem. You can hide the compressor under the body tucked up by the frame rail, or hide it under the seat!
Old fart say never put air ride on traditional A
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