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New calipers, good hoses??

2K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  killeratrod 
#1 ·
New Calipers have been installed,, the hoses are good ,they were replaced 10 years ago. Brakes bled out good this time.Car stops good just .....still pulls to the right.What else can i do ..........new m/c............or turn the rotors, I'm not sure what i should do next??:(any help......thank you bob s
 
#3 ·
What about the front end alignment? Are you getting any unusual tire wear? Tie rods and centerlink good? Idler and Pittman arms OK? A-arm bushings OK? Ball joints? Any collision damage (bent frame or A-arms, etc.)?

Steering wheel/steering box centered? Steering box smooth, w/o slop, notchiness or binding?

Tire sizes and pressures equal? No tire damage like tread starting to separate? Temporarily swapping fronts with the backs can help show this if the sizes are the same, or close to same (not "big and littles" in other words). Tires routinely rotated?

Have you verified it pulls on various different roadways? Some roads have a crown that will tend to push the vehicle to the right.
 
#4 ·
Front end good...alignment newer tires...10 years old but 1000 miles or less on them]

Al the other thing mentioned were all stock s-10 and installed and checked steering is perfect at 75 miles an hour no wobble shake wander etc. pulls as soon as you hit the brake ,i just bought the new hoses. maybe this will help /

the rest of this stuff i'm going to check out see for sure thanks much appreciated bob s.
 
#5 ·
One other thing came to me when you mentioned hoses. I had a Blazer that was rusty. The driver side caliper began hanging up (not releasing) and I was also getting a pull to the left. Turned out the bracket that the hose went through to keep the hose in place had become rusted inside the bracket ID. This actually pinched the hose enough that it caused the dragging and pulling. It wasn't evident just by looking at it, either. Looked just like the picture below:

 
#10 ·
Yes, I replaced both inner and outer bearings and did that to both sides. don't know how yours are, but while I was at it I switched from ball bearings to needle bearings. I also changed hubs at the same time - took the 55's off (ball bearing)and put on ones from a '61 (needlebearings). I don't know what else - have you tried swapping left and right hubs to see if problem follow?
 
#11 ·
mechanic have told me the inner bearings aren't that big of a Deal so no go.When i find this problem ...whatever part i bought that was bad whilest i was repairing this problem .Those shops are going to cough up my return money i spent.try anyway bob s
 
#15 ·
Did you check as I suggested in the other thread that the front end is not shifting when braking. Have you checked that the front end is tracking straight to the rear.
Did you check the rear brakes.
You can get some master cylinder plugs and plug off the front brakes and take it for a ride and see if it still does it. If it does its not the brakes.
 
#16 ·
I am setting here drinking my coffee thursday morn. I am thinking about THIS .. reply...now....in particular. I've.checked .replaced, removed ,put back together everything else ..as per sent to me. In the many faithful replies that have been sent to me,This reply sheds different a light on this thing.I was wondering what to do next! this reply is it! bob s
 
#17 ·
Bob, what vehicle is this? The rear end alignment can also cause pulling if it's off. Another thing to consider is some combo valves pair a front wheel and the opposite side rear wheel. That would mean a rear line w/air in it could have a negative effect on one front wheel.
 
#18 ·
This is a 49 ford convert.chopped folding top LT-1 powered l60E trans it it has a ford 9" late model.rear p/s p/b The frontend is a early 90s S-10 clip,.. back to the firewall.Yes i am thinking along these lines to cobalt.The replies i got on dual m/c having, no effect on the fronts?I have just bled air out of the rear brakes both sides,the air present got in there somehow.[m/c has never been pumped dry during any of this job]. nother cup of coffee and a few minutes break. I am going back out to shop and re-bleed the right front and the left front second. This might have a new effect on the situation. Heres hoping

bleeding all wheels in the correct order has a lot to do with it.btw....the rear end is tight according to me pushing and trying to pull it back and forth went ahead and found the saddle bolts had loosened some..not enough to make any big movements, thanks again cobalt .I will definitely come back to share with these guys what was wrong..............when i get it nailed down.
 
#23 ·
This problem i think came from me "gettin on it".The right rear wheel looks "ahead
in the wheel opening.but when i measure the w/base. It meaures the longest of the two sides R 113+3/4"~~~~~~~L 113" something isn't jiving here,I'll explain again,. the wheel should be" SLID BACK" in the opening on the right side[its not its moved forward..to get that extra 3/4" correct???This would cause the pulling of the kar to the right ???yes/or no.
 
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