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cam break in
hi,when i build an engine,i liberally coat EVERYTHING with STP,cylinder walls,rings,valve springs,cam.lifters,all bearings,(NOT backside of bearings) timing chain and gears. ive never had a problem. after i start the engine,i run it at a fast idle(1800 rpm) for 5 minutes or so,keep an eye on the oil pressure,. let it cool down,start it again and drive it (watch the oil pressure) change oil and filter at 100 miles and again at 500 miles.im boatbob2
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Most of our engines are run on a dyno before they are shipped and we use the proper 1.35 or 1.2 rockers for break in or remove the inner springs if needed and run the engines at 2800 for 45 minutes ans so far no issues and we have been using the Bradd Pennoil 20/50 racing oil to break our cams in which i believe is the only 20/50 oil that is marketed as racing as most of the other 20/50 oils have had the zinc and phosephate lowered and is just a plain 20/50 nothing special and should not be used with falt tappet cams.
We also used the performance cam cores and the tool steel solid lifters and on the hyd. engines we use the lifters from the GM daler as they have the hardest bottoms on them. |
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CNC, is using that racing oil or any other racing oil equal or better than using diesel oil for break in? I know they say the diesel still have all the additives that have been taken out of typical gasoline engine oil. I know alot of people like that shell rotella. I see it mentioned quite a bit on these forums. Im getting very close to firing up my engine and I want the best oil I cant get for break in as its a flat tappet cam.
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Nice little fact I ran across... Check out the next to last bullet...
I would say great news for the flat tappet cams... http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=94 |
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I used Rotella as well, Crane recommends varying the RPMs from 1800 to 2500 to get the oil to splash in different places.
I also used the oil break in concentrate from Crane that they recommend. Break in went fine. |
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Rotella 15-40 and EOS. 20 minutes of 1500 to 3000 In 10 minute time spans.
I do like the Brad Penn oil that CNC mentioned. I believe it is the same oil as the old green Kendall 20/50. Excellent oil IMO. |
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You guy's now know that Rotella-T has has been changed to meet the CJ-4 standards. Diesels didn't use to have have to so the use of this oil was okay. But not any more. Look on the bottles for the CJ-4 standard for emissions.
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I used STP on new rings once, about 30 yrs ago, never again.
It locked them up so bad I couldn't pry them out of the grooves. (when I had to tear it down again to fix it.) From now on, oil only for the rings.
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Quote:
Is EOS still sold at any chevrolet dealer? |
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EOS as far as I know can be bought from any GM brand dealership.
Death.... I broke in a some what aggressive flat tappet 2 weeks ago with Rotella-T and EOS. The the oil I have is the older stuff I believe. If your running stout double springs it might be well worth the time to remove the inner springs. |
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