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Old 10-11-2002, 08:48 AM
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Post new clutch, used pressure plate?

Would I be able to slide with just a new clutch disk, instead of buying a new pressure plate and everything? I put a new clutch in about 5000 miles ago. I used a new centerforce clutch assembly and centerforce flywheel. Already the clutch is starting to slip, I has been smoked a couple of times drag racing. So would I be able to just spend $80 on a new clutch disk, or will I have to spend the $270 for everything again??

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Old 10-11-2002, 09:49 AM
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i never had any luck running a used pressure plate in a high horse power / high torque application. you say you smoked the clutch a few times ,, so the pressure plate surface has gotten hot and has some warpage to it , and the flywheel has some burned spots on it too .. myself .. i would bow my head and just go in a replace the complete assembly .. check the fly wheel and don't forget the pilot bearing and throw-out bearing . better to do it once than spend your all time pulling the trans / clutch in and out
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Old 10-11-2002, 05:36 PM
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Dude, ur makin decent power if ur tearing up a centerforce...
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Old 10-11-2002, 05:43 PM
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Most of the time once a clutch smokes good once it will never be the same. The heat glazes the clutch plate. If you continue to run it, it could warp and/or crack the pressure plate. If you change it out after the first time you smoke it, and the plate is not damaged I dont see any reason to change it. I had good luck with a hays clutch when I ran a standard. I went to it, because I broke the center out of an oem type.

Chris
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Old 10-11-2002, 06:53 PM
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When you "burn" up a clutch disc, you are causing alot of heat. This heat is transfered to the pressure plate. This has a tendancy to warp the pressure plate and also weaken the springs in it. That means that the pressure to keep them applied may not be what it is supposed to be. They should "always" be replaced as a set.
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Old 10-12-2002, 02:28 AM
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[quote]When you "burn" up a clutch disc, you are causing alot of heat. This heat is transfered to the pressure plate. This has a tendancy to warp the pressure plate and also weaken the springs in it.<hr></blockquote>

True Words!

If you have the know how and special service tools, the plate spring pressure can be checked. The face can be checked for warpage-and can be milled lighly. The flywheel needs to be checked for warpage and hot spots on the face. The flywheel can be faced. It will have maximum material removal specs on it just as a brake rotor has.

All is similiar to performing a quality brake job.

But if you don't have the knowledge and/or facilities, complete component change is recommended as that tranny is awfully heavy to keep pulling out.

If the centerforce is slipping, you might consider going to a finger style with a higher clamping force.
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Old 10-12-2002, 07:31 AM
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Kultulz
I can't argue with what you say there. Except for the flywheel machining, the other costs would likely be more than the cost of the pressure plate.
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Old 10-12-2002, 08:46 AM
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Thanx for all the info, I dropped the tranny out of the car yesterday in record timing, 20 minutes!! I un bolted the pressure plate and the flywheel looks pretty good, theres no apparent burn spots and its smooth. The friction disk was worn pretty good. I looked into the finger style clutch, but im running a street car, and the tech department at Jegs said that its very touchy for the street. It likes to grab and it chatters alot, and one bad slip of the clutch will kill it, so I just ordered a new centerforce clutch and pressure plate. Im not going to take any chances.

Yea, the car has some awsome power, I put a set of slicks on the rear, and when they grabbed, the front end would leave the ground, afterward I would smell that nasty burnt brakes smell from my clutch being smoked. Its a low 11's street car, but im not done suping it up. Next is a Paxton supercharger!! Can't Wait!
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Old 10-12-2002, 09:17 AM
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[quote]I looked into the finger style clutch, but im running a street car, and the tech department at Jegs said that its very touchy for the street.<hr></blockquote>

Not to mention it is a little tough on the left leg also...

If the flyweel face looks good, might I suggest to deglaze it (if there is a heat glaze present) and before assembly (crocus cloth-use a hand block sander), wipe both of the faces down good (flywheel and plate) with brake cleaner or other suitable solvent to remove any traces of gease/contamination.

I would rather renew a clutch assembly periodically than to pick up drivetrain pieces off the starting line (very expensive and embarrassing too).

Good Luck with it!

[ October 12, 2002: Message edited by: KULTULZ ]</p>
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Old 10-13-2002, 07:16 PM
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Hey thanx alot for all the info. I installed everything and its working great so far. The real test will come in after I brake it in. The directions say I have to drive around in stop and go type traffic for 450 to 500 miles to brake it in. Hopefully this one holds up.
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Old 10-14-2002, 05:35 PM
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Is this ~11s on the motor? boost? Nitrous?
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Old 10-16-2002, 04:14 PM
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Its a 69 camaro, about 2800lbs. Small block 400ci w/ 10:1 compression, camel hump 2.02 1.60 heads ported, 800cfm carb, performer RPM intake, 274 Comp cam, MSD ignition, munci 4 speed, 3.73 gears. Naturally Aspirated, for the time being. Im putting 6 inch rods and new dart 2.08 aluminum heads on it this winter before I go with the supercharger. I can't wait. Right now, I run 11.3's in the quarter when I run cam 2 and shift really fast. Its slowly but surely getting there.
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